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Rear bump stops

motomx710

Active Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2013
Messages
42
Location
Duluth, mn
What are people doing about not being able to run rear bump stops with coilovers? I see a lot of people don't. Building a new chassis and not going to be able to run rear bumps. Thanks
 
I brought this up in my build thread. I wanted to incorporate them, but it would have looked goofy as hell with the shape of my chassis. So basically, with about 7" of up-travel, they will hopefully not bottom out too often, and of course I made sure that if they do bottom out, nothing else hits first. So the only other issue would be catastrophic failure to a shock mounting point... My crap is pretty beefy there on purpose, but if it happens...well ****.
 
you dont HAVE to have bumpstops, their are tons of rigs out there with COs and no bumps.

They make it easier to tune and overall work better...but for a normal trail rig, youll be totally fine with no bumps. Just make sure the shocks bottom out before the axle hits the chassis.
 
i dont have any on the rear of my truck. I use the links to bottom out on the frame with about 1.5" of shock shaft showing. That way the coilover doesnt get damaged if it bottoms out, which rarely happens on my trail only rig.
 
This sort of all depends on what you're doing.

Some people don't run them at all for crawling.

There are also a lot of options for on shock jounce bumpers. I used to run them and they worked well and I never broke anything, but they do seriously decrease the service life of the shock. In the short term the on-shock jounce bumpers jam mud and rocks right into the external wiper seal. In the longterm the jounce bumper collects water and mud and keeps it trapped next to the piston rod causing them to rust. For racers or shock professionals they might be a good choice. I don't recommend them for recreational users.

Will be interested to see what other people come up with.

bumpstops_title.jpg
 
I wouldn't worry too much about it. Buggy rears are usually pretty light, and unless you just have crazy light springrates or they are mounted to where they don't have very much shaft showing (less available uptravel), I wouldn't see it being much of an issue. Go with the typical spring lengths of lower spring being 2" longer than the shock travel and upper spring being equal to shock travel length, and once you have the springrates dialed in, you shouldn't have a problem. After springrates are dialed in, if you still for some reason think it's getting too close to bottoming out with your riding style, make use of the dual rate stop ring and move it further down the shock body so that it makes the primary heavy (lower) spring kick in earlier in the shock's travel and dampen the load even more. thumb.gif
 
I thought about this for a while when i built mine. The chassis is so far away it would look like a donkey **** hanging down to run a bumpstop. I have about 6-7" of shaft at ride height and have never felt them bottom out hard. I ran air bumps uf front so i can really hit stuff hard. But so far no bumps in the rear have worked for me

 
Rjhoward32006 said:
I thought about this for a while when i built mine. The chassis is so far away it would look like a donkey **** hanging down to run a bumpstop. I have about 6-7" of shaft at ride height and have never felt them bottom out hard. I ran air bumps uf front so i can really hit stuff hard. But so far no bumps in the rear have worked for me


And you still have what looks to be about 5" worth of room to move your dual rate stop ring down to engage the heavy spring earlier too. Move it down 2 or 3" and it will still ride soft on the upper spring but catch itself before the shock gets close to bottoming out. :dblthumb:
 
Unless you have a 3 seater shock tune is better than bumpstops. Bumpstops make one ride like ****. :****:
 
I would think you want SOME FORM of rubber bump or something simply to protect your chok bolts and chassis mounting points. I've seen way too many shocks rip the tabs off the chassis.
 
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