Rear Steer Setup

[Rubijon5]

I have a new to me rear steer rig and have a drifting issue with the rear as well feel like the 2.5 double PSC ram rear is relatively weak in comparison to my front single ram steering when bound up against a rock. (I do not know if this is common for a rear steer rig as this is my first one). I am running a single PSC pump, cooler, and reservoir. Here is the 2010 M&M buggy build by PJ at M&M Offroad. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/848942-2010-m-m-offroad-buggy-build.html

The rig came with the following set up for the rear.

Northman Fluid Power Hydraulic Directional Control Valve – 10.7 GPM, 4500 PSI, 3-Position, Double Solenoid, Tandem Center Spool, 12 Volt DC Solenoids, Model# SWH-G02-C6-D12-10 | Power Solenoid| Northern Tool + Equipment

Northman Fluid Power Single-Station Subplate — NFPA D03 Pattern, 3/8in. NPT Side Ports, Model# M02-03-S-2 | Control Valve Accessories| Northern Tool + Equipment

I have read here and on Pirate that a chack valve can be added to the system to keep A and B closed to help with the drifting issue but also read that this was causing some cavitation in the system causung the stearing to pulse or shutter.

Northman Fluid Power Modular Pilot-Operated Check Valve — 9.3 GPM, 3000 PSI, Ports A & B, Model# MPC02 | Check Valves| Northern Tool + Equipment

Does anyone have any experince with this set up and can enlighten me on what I should expect with it. I am also open to other suggestions for a rear steer set up (looking into two independent systems) but I wanted to see if this system would work first as it is already on the buggy and adding a check valve is cheap.


Thank you

 

[slravenel]

Was wondering where that buggy went! I have the desert tan FJ hood off of that thing on the wall of my shop laughing1


PJ is on here, he can probably at least give you an idea if that is a newfound issue or not.

 

[waggener1]

I ran that same solenoid actuated valve and subplate on my previous rig. The difference is that I ran a dedicated electric pump for the rear (link below). I never had a "drifting" problem and never needed to add a check valve. I used a DP/DT toggle switch to excite both the pump solenoid and appropriate valve solenoid (L/R) concurrently. The setup had plenty of power with a 3"x9" cylinder, but the low flow rate of the pump made it painfully slow. But, like I stated, drift was never a problem.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200329758_200329758

 

[waggener1]

One thing I failed to mention... I've got a couple wheeling buddies that run their rear steering on a single engine driven pump and a manual spool valve. The problem is they can't steer the front and rear at the same time. If I recall correctly, the spool valve and rear cylinder got priority over the orbital valve and front cylinder. I'd be interested to know if you're able to move both cylinders on your rig at the same time.

 

[leeadam94]

One thing I failed to mention... I've got a couple wheeling buddies that run their rear steering on a single engine driven pump and a manual spool valve. The problem is they can't steer the front and rear at the same time. If I recall correctly, the spool valve and rear cylinder got priority over the orbital valve and front cylinder. I'd be interested to know if you're able to move both cylinders on your rig at the same time.

Not sure if it helps but I have and electric directional valve similar to your. I run a single steering pump,it's actually a small pump, but I can steer front and rear normally at the same time. The rear doesn't dominate the front. As far as the rear drifting, I would say the electric valve is leaking by(maybe weak/not sealing internally ) but not sure.


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[Rubijon5]

Thank you for all of the reply's.

One thing I failed to mention... I've got a couple wheeling buddies that run their rear steering on a single engine driven pump and a manual spool valve. The problem is they can't steer the front and rear at the same time. If I recall correctly, the spool valve and rear cylinder got priority over the orbital valve and front cylinder. I'd be interested to know if you're able to move both cylinders on your rig at the same time.

I can move both at the same time but the rear seems gutless and sometimes will wonder the least path of resistance if bound up against something or If I am loading the rear going up an obstacle. I will look into the electrical pump for the rear as you have suggested.

Not sure if it helps but I have and electric directional valve similar to your. I run a single steering pump,it's actually a small pump, but I can steer front and rear normally at the same time. The rear doesn't dominate the front. As far as the rear drifting, I would say the electric valve is leaking by(maybe weak/not sealing internally ) but not sure.


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That is what I am thinking is happening as well. I will try replacing it first to see if there is an improvement then if not probably going to switch to 2 independent hydro systems (1 for the front and 1 for the rear)

Was wondering where that buggy went! I have the desert tan FJ hood off of that thing on the wall of my shop laughing1


PJ is on here, he can probably at least give you an idea if that is a newfound issue or not.

Made its way to Colorado.

 

[84mallcrawl]

if you want the rear steer to stay put mount a Prince RD-1450 close to the cylinder

http://www.baileyhydraulics.com/pdf/ValvesRd1400.pdf

and a place to buy it

http://www.baileyhydraulics.com/product/9761

 

[Rubijon5]

Thanks for the link. They have a lot of good stuff. I think I will try one of their check valves. Where do you have it located on your rig?

if you want the rear steer to stay put mount a Prince RD-1450 close to the cylinder

http://www.baileyhydraulics.com/pdf/ValvesRd1400.pdf

and a place to buy it

http://www.baileyhydraulics.com/product/9761