Repairing links?

charliesnyder · May 10, 2012

So I ran into a bit of an issue... I was welding the rod-end bung in to the tubing, and didn't take the rod end out....

Now the rod end won't move. Not an inch... I've tried heating up the link to expand it but no luck.

Two questions here:

1. Is there any other way I can get this heim out?!

2. I've contemplated cutting the rod end off, sleeving the tube and welding an additional tube with an new bung in. Is that a safe way to do it? Or should I scrap everything and build a new link?

Thanks for your input!
:corn:

CHOP SHOP · May 10, 2012

Leave it till its junk some other day.

If its stuck, leave it stuck till its shot.

crash2 · May 10, 2012

How hot did you get it?

mark · May 10, 2012

PB Blaster?

Paraffin Wax?

zukkev · May 10, 2012

Chances are the weld burned in deep enough to get the threads of the rod end....Hopefully it's adjusted to the right length! :haha: At this point, I'd just weld that rod end to the link, and deal with it later (That is if it's the right length :eeek:...)...

Yotakid · May 10, 2012

I had the same thing happen once, did option #2 (cut and weld new end on). It worked fine for me. But if it's the right length just leave it for now.

nowires · May 10, 2012

Scrap it...........
that link is distroid and unsafe now. you must buy all new parts and start over.......:awesomework:

Or put a big long pipe on the thing and see if it comes loose

But I agree with everyone. run it if it is close

charliesnyder · May 10, 2012

I wish I could just run it. Its not close at all. I'll try heating it up again and see what I can do.

super samurai · May 10, 2012

wont work charles.
just cut that bung out, use a cut off grinder wheel and the replace bung and hiem. happened in my shp a few times.

charliesnyder · May 10, 2012

crash said:
How hot did you get it?

zukkev said:
Chances are the weld burned in deep enough to get the threads of the rod end....Hopefully it's adjusted to the right length! :haha: At this point, I'd just weld that rod end to the link, and deal with it later (That is if it's the right length :eeek:...)...

I know its not hot enough to have welded into the threads. I got it to move a bit. I've even contemplated welding the tube to something and using my body weight on it. Just scared that welding mid tube will weaken the steel somehow.

Hopefully I get it figured out today. If I do get it figured out today I'm going to throw the rod end into the freezer for a while and heat the fawk out of that tube....

super samurai · May 10, 2012

it will break or strip out the bung. you got it hot enough to warp the threaded area of the bung. jeremy and I have done it a few times.

TreeClimber · May 10, 2012

I just had new links made (for spares) and we ran a tap up thru the bung, once it was welded.

You should be able to clamp that link into a BIG vise, then use a long cheater bar on the heim to unscrew it. Then re-tap the bung.

charliesnyder · May 10, 2012

Thought about it. But a new 3/4" heim with weld in bung costs about $25 and a left hand thread 3/4" tap is around $40.... We will see, I'll see if I can get them separated today.

zukkev · May 10, 2012

Don't apply too much heat to the link material, as the heated section of material could become too brittle if cooled too quickly....

CHOP SHOP · May 10, 2012

Just run it.

Its going to be junk if ya get it out. The threads have clamped down ( ya shrunk it with heat) so tight that even if ya have it moving it will gall (has already) the threads so bad that the joint is going to be junk if ya get it out anyways. It will most likely seize back up while trying to back it out.

If it bothers ya that bad then just build a new one and keep the old one as a spare.

CHOP SHOP · May 10, 2012

Personally I would send it to NASA and have it pulled out and then have it spacrographicly tested to check all parameters to make sure it upto severe toyota wheeler duty first. The chryomolly could have aligned itself sideways and will bend even faster now.

charliesnyder · May 10, 2012

CHOP SHOP said:
Just run it.

Its going to be junk if ya get it out. The threads have clamped down ( ya shrunk it with heat) so tight that even if ya have it moving it will gall (has already) the threads so bad that the joint is going to be junk if ya get it out anyways. It will most likely seize back up while trying to back it out.

If it bothers ya that bad then just build a new one and keep the old one as a spare.

CHOP SHOP said:
Personally I would send it to NASA and have it pulled out and then have it spacrographicly tested to check all parameters to make sure it upto severe toyota wheeler duty first. The chryomolly could have aligned itself sideways and will bend even faster now.

That's a great idea chop! I just cut the end out. It wasn't threaded in far enough and I wasn't comfortable running it as is. $25 dollar mistake that could have gotten WAY worse if I would have run it.

I only cut a tiny bit off of the tube length and will be able to adjust the rod ends enough to compensate for that. O'well, live and learn right?!?

Thanks for all the info guys!