Reverse cut wheels and loosing inside bead

[auburnaviator]

Alright, heres a question for everyone: If you have a reverse cut wheel, will you be more likely to loose the inside bead since it was originally designed for an outside bead? If so are reverse cut beadlocks pretty much a waste of money since you'd be loosing the inside bead more often. I have posed this question to allied and am not really getting a straight answer so I'll ask all of you guys that might or might not have experience with it.
Thanks

 

[Digger 5]

I had an old set if U.S. mags (reverse cut) that I used to use for street use. For a while I used them on snow runs too. Whenever I aired down below 8 psi, I would lose the inside bead. Never outside, only inside. The outside was the wide bead, inside narrow.
My $.02

 

[bite me]

I'm running reversed wheels on my rig. 95% of the time your putting pressure on the outside of your wheel not the inside, so you probably won't have any problems. I've never lost a bead, but i also glued my tires to the wheel.:redneck: and i run from 2psi to 6psi all the time.

 

[Hip]

95% of reversed center wheels cannot be beadlocked. it all depends on the minor diameter of the dropped center so be very careful when messing with reversed center wheels when talking beadlocks...

 

[NotMatt]

95% of reversed center wheels cannot be beadlocked. it all depends on the minor diameter of the dropped center so be very careful when messing with reversed center wheels when talking beadlocks...

This is the biggest issue with putting beadlocks on reverse centered wheels. I've heard of lots of people doing this, then being unable to mount a tire on without damaging the bead of the tire irreparably.

But yeah, the inner bead is more likely to come off on a reverse centered wheel because that's the side that the drop is on for mounting the tire. Beadlocks on a reverse centered wheel is pointless, because you're usually going to lose the inside bead before you lose the outside bead.

 

[auburnaviator]

95% of reversed center wheels cannot be beadlocked. it all depends on the minor diameter of the dropped center so be very careful when messing with reversed center wheels when talking beadlocks...

the ones I'm refering to come from the factory locked and reverse cut (allied rock-a-thons), so no issues there.

 

[NotMatt]

the ones I'm refering to come from the factory locked and reverse cut (allied rock-a-thons), so no issues there.

I'm confused, you keep using the term "reverse cut"... you're talking about reverse drop center wheels, right?

 

[auburnaviator]

http://www.high-impact.net/wheels/backspacingillustration.htm#Illustration: Backspacing / Reversed Shell

Heres a diagram of what I'm talking about.

Edit: well thats the page it's on the diagram is at the bottom of the page.

 

[NotMatt]

http://www.high-impact.net/wheels/backspacingillustration.htm#Illustration: Backspacing / Reversed Shell

Heres a diagram of what I'm talking about.

Edit: well thats the page it's on the diagram is at the bottom of the page.

Ok, we're talking about the same thing.

I wasn't aware that any beadlock manufacturers made beadlocks that were "reverse center" wheels...

If you look at the diagram you linked to, you can see why. Normally, the wide area where the bead seats is on the back, which makes the bead hard to pop off the bead seat on the back side of the rim... since it has a long way to move until it really loses the bead. The beadlock goes on the front, because the actually bead seat there is smaller/not as wide and is easier to break loose by simply having pressure in the right place on the tire.

To simply answer the originaly question: yes, if the narrower part is on the back of the rim (reverse center), then you will lose the bead on that side easier. Of course, it's marginally less likely because it's on the inside of the wheel, but it would still be a weak point.

I wouldn't buy beadlocks that were "reverse center", I would consider them a waste of money, because the beadlock would be on the side of the rim that is less likely to lose a bead to begin with, and not where it's really needed. Not to mention how much harder it would be (if not impossible) to mount tires on them.

Can you link to a specific beadlock mfg'er's site where they have "reverse center" beadlocks?

 

[auburnaviator]

http://www.alliedrockathons.com/catalogue_sample.htm

 

[GRNTACO]

Not to mention how much harder it would be (if not impossible) to mount tires on them.

It can be mounted with some effort but you cannot dismount without cutting the tire off or cutting the wheel.

I also wouldn't bother with a reversed center beadlock.

 

[2pwrlftrs4u]

It can be mounted with some effort but you cannot dismount without cutting the tire off or cutting the wheel.

I also wouldn't bother with a reversed center beadlock.

x2 :redneck:

 

[briejer]

A friend of mine runs the Allied reverse center rims on his toyota with 38SX's. The inner bead pops off. If you get them have a good air source.

A fix for that is welding a lip on the inside of the rim to hold the tire.

 

[dangeranger01]

It shouldnt make a difference were the drop center of the wheel is. The bead seat of the wheel is the same from inside to outside. The only thing i could see is that would make the inside pop off first would be that once its off the bead the tire has a shorter distance to travel on the wheel before getting into the drop center. If they were normal drop center then the outer bead would have a shorter distance to the drop center. Idk if that made much sence, i tried to explain it the best i could.

 

[MIG'DHORSE]

A friend of mine runs the Allied reverse center rims on his toyota with 38SX's. The inner bead pops off. If you get them have a good air source.

A fix for that is welding a lip on the inside of the rim to hold the tire.

i've thought about that. the problem for me is that i desire a backspacing that's less than 3.75". having a 2.5" backspace requires a reversed center wheel. I would rather lose an outer than inner, and i'd probably beadlock the rim if it wasnt reversed, and i dont feel like running 3" spacersuke:

 

[GaryTJ]

go ahead and get the wheels (not beadlock) and put the tires on. drill holes spaced about 3" apart through the wheel from the center outward, positioned so they come through the wheel just inside the bead of the tire when seated. put a touch of silicone on the screws and run them in.

the outer will be very hard to unseat because of the reversed wheel and the inner cannot come off because the screws will not allow the tire bead to move inward.

cheap and easy.

 

[MIG'DHORSE]

go ahead and get the wheels (not beadlock) and put the tires on. drill holes spaced about 3" apart through the wheel from the center outward, positioned so they come through the wheel just inside the bead of the tire when seated. put a touch of silicone on the screws and run them in.

the outer will be very hard to unseat because of the reversed wheel and the inner cannot come off because the screws will not allow the tire bead to move inward.

cheap and easy.

http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/index.php?cPath=34&osCsid=f31d60cf58e986d7e23b1412edc54efe

they have screws that are perfect for that ive heard. there's also an incredibly detailed writeup on that somewhere (pirate, maybe?? cant remember) my truck will be daily driven, so i am skeptical as i dont want to air up every day if theres a leaky one somewhere in the 100+ screws used. also, when swapping tires onto the rims, i could imagine the bitch that would be. like robin said, i've considered simply welding a lip on the inside bead to prevent its loss. we'll see. i dont even have rims yet.

 

[briejer]

I tried bead screws on some Mog rims. Fastenal has the screws you need cheaper and easier than Inchworm. I went every 1.5" on 20" rims. Mine failed only due to the 53" tire I was running with 1psi. I think they would work with a normal tire............BUT, who wants to drill holes in a set of new beadlock? Run a thick fat weld for a safety bead, or weld some thick wire on for safety bead...it is a common fix for the 16.5 crowd