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Samurai bomb proof t-case mounts...

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Theoretically, I could make these out of anything... Do I want rubber for some flex... Polyurethane for strength.. Or solid mount and forget about it? Are there drawbacks to a solid mount from your experience? Hell... I could just weld a plate on the bad side(left/driver) and leave the others... Or cut one side off a square tube, then notch it to slide over the bolt heads of the existing mount, then washer it into place... Cause that's the only side with pulling forces on it... Whatcha think?
 
For $35 I would go for it. As for mounts I've always heard that you don't want to go solid. When the frame flexes and your running solid mounts with no give it transfers the stress into the tc, tranny, motor, whatever and leads to broken stuff.

Like I said that's just what I've heard and I can see why it makes sense. I'm sure others have had experience with all the different types of mounts and might be of more help.
 
Isn't that contradictory? Lol...

I'd buy it! But I heard not to use it... Lol

I'm not wanting to replace the whole mounting bracket... Just the rubber shock mount that I tore...
 
Snatch or rock4xfab poly bushings.
I did not lije aluminum

Snatch is way to go. Youll break your mounts off framw first, ask me how I know.

I had reinforced short arm (panty liner by zor)
 
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Do NOT mount your case solid using those mounts, unless you want to start replacing the frame mounts....EVEN then, when stronger, tighter mounts are installed, they still pull thru the thin frame mounts...ask me how I know.
When I installed the TT mounts, all 3 frame mounts started to crack at the mounting holes....ended up beefing up all 3 mounts on the frame, no problems since.
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These are the mounts I have... And I also have the Mighty Kong cradle like sam posted the link to...nice products, just plan on beefing the frame mounts regardless of what you do. It happens.
 
I don't think I have a 'bolt on upgraded cradle'... It looks to me like the guy who originally built my sammi did his own custom thing outta square tubing... I'll research it a little further when I dig into my rear axle R&P fix... The T-case was listing pretty bad when traction hooked up... So something needs TLC under there...

Thanks for the input guys!
 
If something has to break....... those are cheap and easy to replace.

:corn:


In fact I think I still have a few in the old Sami trail bag.
 
I run Calmini's TC cradle,TT belly pan,and the solid mounts pictured and I have to say I like the set up and been running it that way for 8 years now with no issues.
 
Another issue with the solid mounts is you get a lot of noise translated to your frame. I used the Rocky Road one, which is just some poly spacers and a bolt going through. As long as you have some fender washers on each end to stop the bolts from pulling through it worked fine. Make sure you brace the long t-case mount.

http://www.rocky-road.com/samurai-transfer-case-mounts.html

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I'm a fan of Zor's Snatch myself if your going to go with an aftermarket cradle.
 
I run the sami case in my LJ hard mounted with a 3rd plate around the rear output, and have never had any problems running 34s with a 2.3. But it's offroad only.

When I got the sami, I ran both hard mounts and rubber mounts, and preferred the rubber mounts for on road, and the hard mounts for offroad. Throw a locker in the rear, and you had to drive it "just right" with the hard mounts on the road. One thing I did do with the hard mounts, was to add a chunk of rubber between the t-case cradle and the aluminum mounts. I actually used the body spacers from a sami. :redneck: But a thick mudflap would accomplish the same thing. This gave it a little cushion, and a little isolation from gear noise. I did end up swapping back to stock rubbers when I used it more onroad.

There's a guy down in yelm that runs stock mounts, but he cuts the studs off both sides, then through-drills them, and runs a bolt all the way through like the aluminum mounts. If I'd have kept the sami, I'd probably go this route.
 
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My sammi is offroad only, trailered, locked, etc... I've read that it's common to rip rubber mounts as soon as you lower the t-case gears... And mine are 6.5:1...

I slept all day today(I work 3rd shift)... So no progress yet... Will let you know what I find when I dig in...
 
Low R&P gears help take the stress off the TC also. Like I said 9 years local,the hammers and Moab no problem.Noisy but with full circle mounts on the other drive train and the cage mounted to the frame life is good :D
 
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