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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
school me...12 or 24 valve?
- Thread starter Oil can
- Start date
boardbysled
Tree Nerd.
For your project rig? Or for a new tow rig?
tow rig latter down the road...i got all my junk loaded up for the Halloween run and my poor truck is hurting bad!!!! i can only prevent the inevitable for so long.
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
If your poor and can fix things get a 12V.
If you are wealthy and like to abuse **** thats like a video game get a 24V.
If you are a trucker, 12V
Tuner nerd, 24V
If you are wealthy and like to abuse **** thats like a video game get a 24V.
If you are a trucker, 12V
Tuner nerd, 24V
poor, trucker, you hit the nail on the head......
The 12v was the way i was leaning so far. just thought i would do a little research.
Lucky Jeff
Well-Known Member
12 valve is less maintenance, usually get better mileage, easy and cheap to mod for decent enough power for most people to be happy for a tow rig without hurting mileage. Early 98's were the only 12 valves with the new interior and optional quad doors. It's best to stick with the 96-98 trucks, but 94 and 95 are still decent.
Lucky Jeff
Well-Known Member
all 47's, unless it's been modified, it won't last very long. A good torque converter and valve body, along with a decent remote cooler can go a long ways on those tranny's.
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Almost bought a 98 12V before buying my truck, but I really wanted an 8' box...and at the time the only dodges I could find were shorty's...If there was a long bed available in my price range at the time---I'd probably be a dodge owner right now...the trannies aren't that hard to pull at all if there's an issue... The only thing I noticed with all the dodges I actually looked at were the rear diffs all had metallic material suspended in the gear oil, indicating a hard life with no maintenance...:;
The only thing I noticed with all the dodges I actually looked at were the rear diffs all had metallic material suspended in the gear oil, indicating a hard life with no maintenance...:;benw1
Well-Known Member
whitetrashfab
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2009
- Messages
- 104
12v... dont forget the killer dowel pin... With all dodges, plan on replacing everthing in the front end, they must make all there balljoints and trackbars out of plastic... Plan on replacing the cartrige seal between the ps pump and the vacume pump, they always leak. Might as well put a new lift pump in it before the one it has dies... The tranys are week, but if you keep good fluid in them and install a better cooler it will do the job.
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
I have done balljoints, wheel bearings, lift pump, replaced broken case from fallen dowel pin, replaced fuel lines and brakes/discs.
But all that is the same on a 12 or 24 except the lift pump.
My truck has 198,000 miles and is an auto and shifts fine but I can drive through the lockup converter if I stand on it.
Im gonna rebuild the tranny and put a good billet converter in it and then I will fully trust her out of state. I could probably put a converter in it and be fine too, but Ill feel better rebuilding/checking it all out.
Ive been in the front axle, fuel system and engine. The only place I need to get into are the tranny and rear end and Ill be happy.
But all that is the same on a 12 or 24 except the lift pump.
My truck has 198,000 miles and is an auto and shifts fine but I can drive through the lockup converter if I stand on it.
Im gonna rebuild the tranny and put a good billet converter in it and then I will fully trust her out of state. I could probably put a converter in it and be fine too, but Ill feel better rebuilding/checking it all out.
Ive been in the front axle, fuel system and engine. The only place I need to get into are the tranny and rear end and Ill be happy.
Lucky Jeff
Well-Known Member
why would you suggest this? :eeek:
the powersteering/vacuum pump seal is only like 8 bucks from Cummins, easy to do. KDP you may have 50 bucks into, simple as well. Most of these things, other then the front end parts, are real cheap, and easy.
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
I was amazed mine still had the cummins paint on all the fittings and it chipped off when I touched it with a wrench.
I have never had a gasser or anything that had a mechanical fuel pump that lasted 192K miles.
Still blows me away it lasted that long. Good stuff for sure.
I'll add some other 12v tidbits. I have a 94 5-speed wth 220k? on it.
The paint sucks. Water based primer has created a leper paint job.
The interior has been vibrated loose over the years. Lots of vibrating interior parts.
The engine is loud.
The 5th gear nut is a common problem, as is the kdp, and a head gasket leak under the thermosat housing.
The battery cables are something to look out for.
With a 5speed truck its basically a srw 1 ton, Its got a dana80 rear end.
And lastly, They are CHEAP!
The paint sucks. Water based primer has created a leper paint job.
The interior has been vibrated loose over the years. Lots of vibrating interior parts.
The engine is loud.
The 5th gear nut is a common problem, as is the kdp, and a head gasket leak under the thermosat housing.
The battery cables are something to look out for.
With a 5speed truck its basically a srw 1 ton, Its got a dana80 rear end.
And lastly, They are CHEAP!
GRW
Well-Known Member
Lucky Jeff
Well-Known Member
The srw are a hybrid, 80 centers and 70 outters.. DRW are true 80. Still, that center is considerably bigger and definitely the better option.
Wow, thank you for all the usefull info. I had heard about the cdp, but this is a good reminder. And I was leaning twords a stick, due to simplicity. The fifth gear nut is a good tip, thanks. And some one said some thing about a leak area betwean the fuel pump and vacume pump..........what were the details with that? Im loving the info keep it coming.:corn:
