• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

Shock or suspension issue?

Re: Re: Shock or suspension issue?

muddinmetal said:
My rig is a COMPLETE pos, but my front lowers are practically straight with my uppers triangulated but still having 11 inches of separation. It climbs well and the front never really hops unless I am at a near vertical climb and I honestly believe that is because my rear is set up too soft and very little to do with front link placement
Does your front end still kinda go side to side at all? I posted a video on the YouTube of the day and if ya watch it you can see my front end move around by watching the coils. Didn't know if it was normal or not. My lowers are kicked out just a bit and my uppers are triangulated.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
You can substitute more separation at the axle for less at the chassis. Not sure how much work that would cause, but its usually easier to move things there since you're not trying to dodge the motor and all. Try running the numbers...
 
Re: Re: Shock or suspension issue?

onepieceatatime said:
Does your front end still kinda go side to side at all? I posted a video on the YouTube of the day and if ya watch it you can see my front end move around by watching the coils. Didn't know if it was normal or not. My lowers are kicked out just a bit and my uppers are triangulated.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Oh yes, it does do that... I just tell people it's searching for traction... I do have one burnt rod end that may also contribute heavily
 
Re:

Mine is similar. It will change directions with no steering input. Almost took Eddyj and I down a mountain one day.

Though I'm not the OP, thanks for all the input. I haven't ever used the calculator and probably should, but I can tell you that having built in adjustments should always be considered when building a 4 link for first time. I've moved one set of mounts and dreading the other.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 
Rjhoward32006 said:
Theres not much triangulation at all in the lowers neal so i'm not sure how much they can be moved out, even then its not going to help for spacing issues as the radiator and other things are right above the link mounts

There's a minimum combination number for triangulation for your upper and lower lnks, but i can't remember what it is


You might be better off building a 3-link front suspension, or move your rad to the back
 
Re:

Dumb question but would a suck down winch help be a a bandaid for the hop?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
Neal3000 said:
When you get on some steep climbs and it stsrts that **** and denies you, you'll get pissed and fix it :****:

When it breaks a lot of parts you will wish you fixed it..... :****:
 
Didnt say that I wasn't going to fix it, i just think i can manage to fix it fairly simple without switching to a three link. For god sakes i'm only running a 4 cyl. Theres not that much to take up space lol
 
Re:

If you can't raise uppers at the axle, then possibly lower the lowers at the axle.

After seeing the pics, definitely need more separation at the axle.

Do all you can with the geometry before you start tuning.

I imagine more spring preload and/or lighten the rebound valving.

What's your current preload?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Nothing wrong with a 3 link.

Put that upper up high where it'll clear the motor and such, and use your other upper link for a panhard
 
Preload cant go any tighter. It already sits high enough. Thanks for the opinions i think i can probably move the axle end uppers up
A but and maybe lower the frame side uppers
 
Re: Re: Shock or suspension issue?

Rjhoward32006 said:
Preload cant go any tighter. It already sits high enough. Thanks for the opinions i think i can probably move the axle end uppers up
A but and maybe lower the frame side uppers

Riget but how much preload are you currently at to get desired ride height. What I'm getting at, is making sure you have enough preload and light enough rebound valving to let axle droop and not pack in.

@Karatejosh had both issues, and was similar to your issue

Needed more triangulation, and rebound valving was wayyyyy too stiff.

In other words. If you can't get rebound valving any lighter, then you need to increase preload.

If you cant increase preload because you are at correct ride height with current springs,
Then you need lighter spring rates with more preload.

This gets axle to droop faster, same as lighter rebound valving....
 
Rebound is stock and can be lightened. I dont think they really
Make springs lighter than what i'm running 100lb 1st rate and 150 lowers.
I do have some 125 lower springs i can put on it.
 
I have nearly 50/50 travel on shock. 8" up travel and 8" down travel. At ride height my air bumps are probably 2-3" from touching and they only touch when you are flying down the main trail or hit a big rock in the trail just cruising. The only time they ever get close to maximg the 4" air bump is under extreme articulation.
 
Because of spacing issues my limit straps limit the front from drooping quite a bit. Even with the preload turned all the way out it still isnt enough room for the coils to get loose
 
With stock Fox valving I don't think it would be the shocks, although these things can be hard to diagnose.
 
Top