I personally chose the atlas because it was the proven burly t-case. At the time the STAK was new and i stay away from new stuff til its proven.
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stac ? atlas ? dana 300 ?
- Thread starter crawlrjj
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I personally chose the atlas because it was the proven burly t-case. At the time the STAK was new and i stay away from new stuff til its proven.
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Neither of my Atlas's leak. One's a two speed, several years old. Other's a four speed, pretty new.
No leaks whatsoever.
The original two speed would burp 90 wt out of the vent tube if you overfill it. Once it's settled down to the correct level on the sight tube, it wouldn't burp any fluid.
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
I prefered the gear ratio choices of the Atlas 4 speed over the Stak 3 speed. If you remember (and I'm sure you do) while my Atlas 4sp was on backorder, you recieved and installed your Stak 3 speed. Then had to remove it because it was a leaker (or broken case??). You were posting some kinda problems. IIRC Stak did a good job of taking care of the concerns, but I'd just rather not have to worry. Yeah, I had to wait. But it's a proven design, similar to a D300 and it works.
My first Atlas was before the Stak was introduced, so it was an easy (but expensive) choice. The second Atlas was a tougher choice, but once you've had good luck with a product it's pretty easy to stay with it.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Plus the stak is bigger and heavier....
Wildman1
Well-Known Member
My issues with the STaK's turned out to be a oversight by STaK's. I started out flat towing my Jeep and in the process burned up 3 T-cases. Yes I spent a lot of time down dealing with having to pull/install/pull/install. I know I was taking a chance when I bought the STaK's but I can say I was and am very happy with how they took care of me. STaK's finally just said you CAN'T flat tow with their box. That may have changed by now but that was why I ended up with a trailer.
I like the spread of my gear ratio and for me I think it works well here in the PNW.
But if your going to be beating on something don't you want it bigger and stronger? Isn't that what this thread is about?
Some were there is a picture of Dana 300 gears, Atlas 2 gears and then STaK Monster box gears. The STaK's gears are just down right HUGE. And I have had my case a part once and have seen those gears too. And yes I'll agree it is HEAVY.
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Didn't know that.
For what it's worth, you can tow with an Atlas, although I also trailer
No. You want big enough and strong enough, that's all. Too big is a liability. (And don't get me wrong, I don't think the Stak box is a liability. I did consider it and just chose differently. I was answering your question rhetorically, much in the same way you posed the question)
I'll leave going big to you monster truck guy's:rb:
OK, you got me, I'll bite. It's not a turd, it was designed to work in a 3500 lb Jeep with a 100 hp engine. It does fine with quite a bit more than that, but it has it's limits. It's up to the end user to know them. :stirpot:
jimijam19K
Well-Known Member
What i want to know is why the OP needs to upgrade his T-case in the first place?
Swapped in fire-breathing motor?
Are you driving like you stole it?
I'd venture a guess the T-case isn'tthe weakest link at this point in time anyway.
BTW anytime you use "upgrade" and "budget" in the same sentence your just asking for a thread like this:stirpot:
Swapped in fire-breathing motor?
Are you driving like you stole it?
I'd venture a guess the T-case isn'tthe weakest link at this point in time anyway.
BTW anytime you use "upgrade" and "budget" in the same sentence your just asking for a thread like this:stirpot:
Maverick26
As iron sharpens iron...
Big_MARK
Well-Known Member
Some people run 300's till they break, then get the Atlas.
a Dana 300 will take alot of abuse, take it from a constant abuser....they do break though, I've seen it but not had it hapen to me.
Mauler is right though the gearing needs to be in the axles, My 300 is BONE STOCK (cept twin stick) with 6:21's in my 60's running 42's.
Timebomb? Probably but the ****'s still holding up.
Rule of thumb, Run it till it breaks then upgrade to the next thing. :awesomework:
I don't agree. Change it BEFORE you break it. That way you end up with something you can sell to help pay for your upgrade instead of a useless pile of broken parts.:awesomework:
Big_MARK
Well-Known Member
I guess I just see lots of people upgrade to upgrade without ever really needing (or knowing) the big bad parts they just $pent a lot of dough on.
Whatever make you happy I suppose.....
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
I upgraded my rear output due to the steep angle on it and from what I saw that was a big point of them breaking the rear output. I will only upgrade my front output after I break it....
Pook
Well-Known Member
Since I spend a lot $ travelling to go wheelingor to a comp, spending some money $ at home makes sense for me.
Driving 1000miles one way to break is not fun and even if you have spares spending 45min on breakdown time rushing to repair something isn't fun.
Driving 1000miles one way to break is not fun and even if you have spares spending 45min on breakdown time rushing to repair something isn't fun.
This comment was made with axles and t-case in mind. There were a few posts where guys here said that they'd upgrade their 300s when they blew them. Much of the stuff we upgrade doesn't have much value (unless you need it on the trail
). Axle assemblies and t-cases call be valuable if upgraded before you grenade them.
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