So my original idea was to flip my kingpin tierod to the top of the knuckles, hence me researching 7* reamers and the assoc tool talk thread...
Steering update:
The more I research flipping my tie rod, the more I'm thinking this is a great idea. BUT maybe not the way to go for me. First it involves more labor. Granted not a lot, but second, I'd need to buy a 7* reamer which I keep reading is technically not the right size anyway (actual pitch is 1.5" taper/ft which equals 7* and something like 12 or 13 minutes, so while a 7* reamer will 'work', it's not perfect). And lastly and most importantly, if I'm going to go through the hassle of flipping the tie rod, why not go true hi steer? I haven't run into any con's yet, so if someone can think of something, let me know...
Advantage Kingpin. Instead of running my current hi steer arm on the passenger side, I can run it on the driver's side. Then I'll get a new passenger side arm w/3 holes, two for multiple drag link options and one for the TRE. New arm will be ~2" longer w/the first extra hole for the drag link end further forward (away from the knuckle) than the TRE hole. This will give me better mechanical leverage during steering. Second extra hole to be behind the TRE hole (toward the knuckle) should I ever wish to try that setup, advantage being quicker steering response. As I don't know which I'll like better and also don't know if/when I'll go hydro assist, options are good.
I'll need to mock this up of course after I get my axle under the rig to verify any clearance issues. I'll also need to see how the drag link angle will compare to the working angle of my trac bar. I'm currently running a drop pitman arm, so it's possible I'll have to go back to a shorter arm to keep the two parallel.
Steering update:
The more I research flipping my tie rod, the more I'm thinking this is a great idea. BUT maybe not the way to go for me. First it involves more labor. Granted not a lot, but second, I'd need to buy a 7* reamer which I keep reading is technically not the right size anyway (actual pitch is 1.5" taper/ft which equals 7* and something like 12 or 13 minutes, so while a 7* reamer will 'work', it's not perfect). And lastly and most importantly, if I'm going to go through the hassle of flipping the tie rod, why not go true hi steer? I haven't run into any con's yet, so if someone can think of something, let me know...
Advantage Kingpin. Instead of running my current hi steer arm on the passenger side, I can run it on the driver's side. Then I'll get a new passenger side arm w/3 holes, two for multiple drag link options and one for the TRE. New arm will be ~2" longer w/the first extra hole for the drag link end further forward (away from the knuckle) than the TRE hole. This will give me better mechanical leverage during steering. Second extra hole to be behind the TRE hole (toward the knuckle) should I ever wish to try that setup, advantage being quicker steering response. As I don't know which I'll like better and also don't know if/when I'll go hydro assist, options are good.
I'll need to mock this up of course after I get my axle under the rig to verify any clearance issues. I'll also need to see how the drag link angle will compare to the working angle of my trac bar. I'm currently running a drop pitman arm, so it's possible I'll have to go back to a shorter arm to keep the two parallel.
