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suspension suggestions

jeepdarinx

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May 3, 2008
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152
Getting ready to redo the springs on my 76 cj-5 and was wondering what setup to go with or what works the best, i am currently running a spring over setup on toyota axles with cj-5 springs, frontend has been moved forward two inches, want something thats guna perform well on the trail and would like to lengthen wheelbase. Any input would be appreciated!
 
Ummm....Double triangluated 4 link works good:redneck:

Do ya wanna link it? Do ya wanna keep the leafs? Whats your budget?
 
I would do a shackle reversal, with either waggy springs front an rear, or yota springs, they are wider than the jeep springs (2 inches compared to 2.5 inches), an a little stiffer, but still flex good, you dont have to worry about bending em.

I would use a chev 63" long rear main spring in the rear if you have room. One thing to remember is the longer the spring, the better the flex.

Yota rear mains outa a 84-88 have a moved forward center pin hole, which may be what ur lookin for with lengthin ur wheelbase, but then u will have to deal with ur steering.
 
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I would do a shackle reversal, with either waggy springs front an rear, or yota springs, they are wider than the jeep springs (2 inches compared to 2.5 inches), an a little stiffer, but still flex good, you dont have to worry about bending em.

I would use a chev 63" long rear main spring in the rear if you have room. One thing to remember is the longer the spring, the better the flex.

Yota rear mains outa a 84-88 have a moved forward center pin hole, which may be what ur lookin for with lengthin ur wheelbase, but then u will have to deal with ur steering.

uhh. no.

You will have to worry about bending springs depending on how your pack is built. More to do with spring clamps/leaf count/thickness, spring rate, Perches/u bolt clamps style, shocks, shackle location.

Chevy 63" rears would be a fawking packaging nightmare on a CJ-5. 10-15" too long of a spring. Terrible aproach/departure angle no matter were you put them. spring rate is completely off for the application.

leaf spring flex has a little to do with length, but more to do with shock location/angle/length, shackle design, length, and location. Matching the spring rate to your vehicle is a very important part of a well working leaf spring rig. Spring rate will be completely off if you stick a 1 ton truck spring under a 3500 # jeep. Taking leaves out to lower the rate is going to compromise the integrity of the spring and increase wrap.

A toyota spring has been used with some success in lighter applications. The geometry with the really offset center pin causes EXTREME pinion dive under droop in a shackle reversed situation with the short end of the spring fixed to the frame. Some on this forum SWEAR by shackle in the front for offroad used. I believe them. My rig is alot more multi purpose. a driver so to speak, I have the fixed end of the spring in a "reversed" location, but no shackle, im using slider boxes. Some claim the reversed shackle rides better on the road, and decreases the chance of springs bending from "bumping" obstacles, but in a front shackle application a good traction bar will keep this from happening.

A well thought out traction bar system is going to be an essential if you are steering toward a flexier spring, especially if this thing is near stock weight.
You also have to consider going to a shackle reversal often requires a long slip driveline. Alot of guys say the frontend feels like its "walking" away from the rig when climbing with a shackle in the back of the spring, on the front.



How much unsprung weight do you have? tire/wheel weight? axle weight? steering setup? Lets see some pictures of the rig in question, that might help with the decision making. How tall do you want this thing? what size tires? How much flex are you trying to acheive? uptravel available in the chassis? downtravel? How much more are you wanting to stretch the wheelbase? :corn:
 
uhh. no.

You will have to worry about bending springs depending on how your pack is built. More to do with spring clamps/leaf count/thickness, spring rate, Perches/u bolt clamps style, shocks, shackle location.

Chevy 63" rears would be a fawking packaging nightmare on a CJ-5. 10-15" too long of a spring. Terrible aproach/departure angle no matter were you put them. spring rate is completely off for the application.

leaf spring flex has a little to do with length, but more to do with shock location/angle/length, shackle design, length, and location. Matching the spring rate to your vehicle is a very important part of a well working leaf spring rig. Spring rate will be completely off if you stick a 1 ton truck spring under a 3500 # jeep. Taking leaves out to lower the rate is going to compromise the integrity of the spring and increase wrap.

A toyota spring has been used with some success in lighter applications. The geometry with the really offset center pin causes EXTREME pinion dive under droop in a shackle reversed situation with the short end of the spring fixed to the frame. Some on this forum SWEAR by shackle in the front for offroad used. I believe them. My rig is alot more multi purpose. a driver so to speak, I have the fixed end of the spring in a "reversed" location, but no shackle, im using slider boxes. Some claim the reversed shackle rides better on the road, and decreases the chance of springs bending from "bumping" obstacles, but in a front shackle application a good traction bar will keep this from happening.

A well thought out traction bar system is going to be an essential if you are steering toward a flexier spring, especially if this thing is near stock weight.
You also have to consider going to a shackle reversal often requires a long slip driveline. Alot of guys say the frontend feels like its "walking" away from the rig when climbing with a shackle in the back of the spring, on the front.



How much unsprung weight do you have? tire/wheel weight? axle weight? steering setup? Lets see some pictures of the rig in question, that might help with the decision making. How tall do you want this thing? what size tires? How much flex are you trying to acheive? uptravel available in the chassis? downtravel? How much more are you wanting to stretch the wheelbase? :corn:

X2 read this post twice and take notes lots of good info.:awesomework:Especially the shackle reversal worst mod I made to mine.
 
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Darin I used toyota pick up fronts in the front shackle reversal, and landcruiser rears in the rear with slide boxes. My toyata's upfront I love Lots of down travel not much up travel perfect spring rate for my heavy V-8 I put some rancho 9000xl shocks on it and the front is great the rear on the other hand needs some work way to much spring rat in the rear. Here are some pics.
 
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uhh. no.

You will have to worry about bending springs depending on how your pack is built. More to do with spring clamps/leaf count/thickness, spring rate, Perches/u bolt clamps style, shocks, shackle location.

Chevy 63" rears would be a fawking packaging nightmare on a CJ-5. 10-15" too long of a spring. Terrible aproach/departure angle no matter were you put them. spring rate is completely off for the application.

leaf spring flex has a little to do with length, but more to do with shock location/angle/length, shackle design, length, and location. Matching the spring rate to your vehicle is a very important part of a well working leaf spring rig. Spring rate will be completely off if you stick a 1 ton truck spring under a 3500 # jeep. Taking leaves out to lower the rate is going to compromise the integrity of the spring and increase wrap.

A toyota spring has been used with some success in lighter applications. The geometry with the really offset center pin causes EXTREME pinion dive under droop in a shackle reversed situation with the short end of the spring fixed to the frame. Some on this forum SWEAR by shackle in the front for offroad used. I believe them. My rig is alot more multi purpose. a driver so to speak, I have the fixed end of the spring in a "reversed" location, but no shackle, im using slider boxes. Some claim the reversed shackle rides better on the road, and decreases the chance of springs bending from "bumping" obstacles, but in a front shackle application a good traction bar will keep this from happening.

A well thought out traction bar system is going to be an essential if you are steering toward a flexier spring, especially if this thing is near stock weight.
You also have to consider going to a shackle reversal often requires a long slip driveline. Alot of guys say the frontend feels like its "walking" away from the rig when climbing with a shackle in the back of the spring, on the front.



How much unsprung weight do you have? tire/wheel weight? axle weight? steering setup? Lets see some pictures of the rig in question, that might help with the decision making. How tall do you want this thing? what size tires? How much flex are you trying to acheive? uptravel available in the chassis? downtravel? How much more are you wanting to stretch the wheelbase? :corn:

Well, ya learn somethin new everyday:redneck:

I have been insterested by those slider box's, I don't like the shackle setup on my front end, and those may be an option for me.

All in all, its gonna be pretty tough to extend the wheelbase too much in a cj with leafs i would think.
 
Ive already got a shackle reversal, and currently running toyota axles prung over, toyota crossover steering with axle forward 2 inches, easily clears 36's.
 
Derick in the club runs chevy negative arch springs front and rear on his cj5 and it works awesome and they ride like a dream. Ive got a full set you can have for 40$
 

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