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Swamped a toyota

1980cj5

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2009
Messages
212
Location
Bonney Lake
So tonight at a local wheeling spot, a buddy in a 92 toy pickup with a 3.0 and stock intake tried going through the deepest mud hole. He hit it a little hard and it died with water half way up the drivers head light (the same side that the intake is on) he tried to start it and the starter just clicked. So we got it to dry ground and pulled the air filter and all of the plugs and the starter still wouldnt turn it over, so we tried to bump start it, and it just spun the clutch. After that we just put the plugs back in and towed it home. So is his motor probably toast? Or should we be able to pull the plugs suck out the water, turn the motor over manually, then just give it a tune up and call it good as new? Oh yeah with the plugs out we could actually see water in some of the cylinders.
 
Probably shiat canned the engine but make sure the starter works. I have seen starters go to hell after being submerged.
 
I have seen starters go to hell after being submerged.

the part about pull starting it and spinning in the clutch is telling me the starter is not the problem here.

Time for an engine swap. I bet the rod took out the main cap girdle too.

Roll it back wards till it stops then try to start it. They make a kool clatter if it trys to run again.:haha:

Death to 3.0. :beer:
 
Long breaker bar on the crackshaft pully. Tyicly if its locked up due to a bent rod you will be bale to rock the motor backwards a bit and forwards before it locks. You should also hear a "clack" or "thump" noise.

Sounds like its done though...
 
Long breaker bar on the crackshaft pully. Tyicly if its locked up due to a bent rod you will be bale to rock the motor backwards a bit and forwards before it locks. You should also hear a "clack" or "thump" noise.

Sounds like its done though...

I bent a rod on one of my old 3.0s.(swampmud and a rollover) It was knocking and I figured Id just kill it at elbe. After an hour of wheeling I noticed it was not knocking anymore. I thought, "cool it fixed itself".

On the next run it got to shaking so bad it eventually would not stay running.

Turns out the bent rod let the piston skirt hit the crankshaft and "knocked" until it clearanced the skirt nicely. Then it shook cuz of the piston chunks missing putting it badly out of balance.
 
I bent a rod on one of my old 3.0s.(swampmud and a rollover) It was knocking and I figured Id just kill it at elbe. After an hour of wheeling I noticed it was not knocking anymore. I thought, "cool it fixed itself".

On the next run it got to shaking so bad it eventually would not stay running.

Turns out the bent rod let the piston skirt hit the crankshaft and "knocked" until it clearanced the skirt nicely. Then it shook cuz of the piston chunks missing putting it badly out of balance.

I had a 7.4 come in wiht a miss fire and a funny rattle. found no compresion in one cylinder. I pulled the head and found--no piston just a rod with a pin in it floating in the cyliner. The pistion was in about 500 pieces in the pan.
 
I had a 7.4 come in wiht a miss fire and a funny rattle. found no compresion in one cylinder. I pulled the head and found--no piston just a rod with a pin in it floating in the cyliner. The pistion was in about 500 pieces in the pan.

hell yeah!!!

Ask odie about the bent powerstroke rod he kept under his eat for years. He replaced that rod and ran it for a couple hunred K miles after. I still see the truck rolling around.
 
I have some 3.0l parts rolling around some where if you want to try n make a runner again,
 
Long breaker bar on the crackshaft pully. Tyicly if its locked up due to a bent rod you will be bale to rock the motor backwards a bit and forwards before it locks. You should also hear a "clack" or "thump" noise.

Sounds like its done though...

Tried a long breaker on the crank pulley, and it wouldnt turn over forwards, it would turn about a quarter turn backwards. Then it would only turn over forwards back to where it was. (with the plugs out) So I am pretty positive that the motor is shot.:mad: This might be a stupid question but should the heads still be good?
 
Tried a long breaker on the crank pulley, and it wouldnt turn over forwards, it would turn about a quarter turn backwards. Then it would only turn over forwards back to where it was. (with the plugs out) So I am pretty positive that the motor is shot.:mad: This might be a stupid question but should the heads still be good?
Maybe. You will have to look and see.
 
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