SXOR single seater build

[zjtrey]

nice work ben, I may have to do a worthless update also.. been working on details for a few weeks, gathering parts routing cables blah blah..

I do have a question for ya… is that PCM bracket you're using steel or plastic?

 

[hokie_yj]

Thanks man, can't wait to see yours done. The bracket I'm using is steel, it came with a piece of foam in it I guess for vibration purposes. I have seen some platic ones too though.

 

[hokie_yj]

This is the one I have. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/miscellaneous/1002473-ls-based-engine-ecu-mount.html but I got it second hand. Kinda seems like they may not be making them anymore though.

 

[jsg1113]

Just ordered one about a month ago. Best to call them it took a long time to reply to my email.

 

[hokie_yj]

Cool, good to know. I was just guessing since their website didn't have anything and their thread on Pirate hadn't been updated in a long time. It's a nice piece, I'm very happy with it.

 

[hokie_yj]

Here's a few more progress pics from the last couple days. A lot of time was spent just mapping out in my head how all the wiring and plumbing is going to be routed and tacking on zip tie tabs etc. to secure everything. I did get a few more things done though.

I welded up and painted the fire extinguisher mounts I got from JDuck. These things are really nice, you can't beat them for the money. I'm going to mount one inside where I can reach it while i'm strapped in, and one in the back around the motor somewhere. I'm thinking I'll probably go with the ColdFire extinguishers.









I also rolled the axles out from under it and installed the 3rd members. I tried doing it with the axles still under the buggy, but it was just way easier this way and they had to come out anyway.









I also assembled the front axle shafts. The joints are CTMs. The outers are custom CTM 300M 2nd gen Dodge 33 spline unit bearing style stubs, and the inners are Moser 35 spline chromos. One day I'll probably order some CTM inners to match. (The front shafts, no joints, came with the chassis when I bought it as a roller) Both are machined for 50* steering. I still have to install the shafts and cycle the ram though to see how much angle I can use and whether or not I need to de-stroke the ram.





And here's the rear axle shafts, I got these in a long time ago, but I'm not sure if I ever posted any pics of them. They're custom length CTM 300M 35 spline double splined shafts with CTM 300M drive flanges.





Hopefully I won't be breaking any axle shafts, but ring & pinions will probably hate me though.

I'm hoping it won't be too long before I tear it all apart and start welding and painting. I'm still trying to order up the rest of the parts I need here and there when the wallet allows. I got my ORI dual fill kit and a bunch of AN hose and fittings last week. I ordered my nitrogen regulator for the fill kit this week along with some other small parts. I still have some wiring stuff to order too, and then I'm sure there will be several things that I'll remember at the last minute that I need.

 

[hokie_yj]

I had a few minutes this afternoon so I slid the shafts in the front axle and cycled the ram to see if I was going to have to limit it. Luckily everything clears great. With the ram at full lock in either direction the knuckles are still an inch or so away from hitting the steering stops and I can still fit my little finger between the ears of the shafts.

At full lock in either direction the outside goes close to 55*, and the inside is about 45* or so. Is it normal for the outside tire to turn that much sharper than the inside? Or do I have something screwed up?

Here's some pics.



Full lock left.





Full lock right.

 

[TBItoy]

You have reverse ackerman angle.

Normally your inside tire turns farther than the outside tire.

It'll be fine though.

You could mount your steering ram closer to the axle housing, that would correct the angle at full lock

 

[hokie_yj]

Ok, thank you. I've heard that term before, but never really understood what it meant. There's really no way I can get the ram any closer to the axle. So I guess I'll just run it as is.

The ram clamps are almost touching the diff cover now so there's no moving the ram.



Edit: And I guess part of the problem may be that these Dodge knuckles have pretty short steering arms.

 

[hokie_yj]

I got the driveshafts built today. The front and rear shafts are only about 1" different in length so I was able to build both shafts identical and will be able to build one spare to work for both.















The angles on the rear shaft suck, but it is what it is. I wish whoever originally built the axle would have moved the 3rd a couple inches closer to the passenger side. It would have made life so much easier for me. I still have to flex it out and just hope nothing binds and everything clears.





As you can see the rear shaft is a little cozy with the oil filter. I'm thinking about building something off the engine skid to come up and cover the oil filter. I would make it removable so that the filter could be changed without dropping the skid. But I also went ahead and ordered the remote oil filter adapter for this pan in case I need it.

I ran out of time today before I could get the front shaft bolted up. I'll do that in the morning then flex it out and hope and pray that everything clears ok.

 

[sleepsontoilet]

So much want!

 

[hokie_yj]

Thanks man!

Someone asked about the driveshaft parts on another board so I'll post the info here too.

They are 1.625" - 10 spline stuff sold by Neapco. I believe they're sold as PTO shaft. I found them a few places online, but I got them through my local Fleet Pride and they beat everyone online.

The slip spline shaft is 28" overall with about 2" of smooth shaft on the end. I originally bought two, but ended up cutting them in half. The smooth part of the shaft is 1.375" o.d. So to mate it to the yoke I put it inside a piece of 1.75" x .188 DOM and the put that inside a piece of 2" x .120 DOM. It took a little grinding and a press, but it all fit together good.

The coupler is 2" o.d. I used 2.5" x .250 tubing, probably way overkill. And the yoke on that end also has a short piece of 2" x .120 tubing slipped inside the 2.5"

Here's the part #s:

Shaft-Neapco #72-2231 or possibly 2231-3
Coupler-Neapco #53-2415
Yokes-Spicer #3-28-777

 

[sappmann]

love this build. the drive shaft looks close to that oil filter

 

[hokie_yj]

Thanks! It is very close. I have a remote filter setup on the way to take care of that.

 

[kmcminn]

I have a remote filter setup I like it. Keeps the filter out the driveshafts way on mine. Buy the nice billet ones they won't bust like the cheaper cast aluminum ones. Trust me I learned the hard way. Love the build.

 

[hokie_yj]

Appreciate it man!

 

[bgredjeep]

Make sure you cycle that suspension every way you can now that you have the shafts. I've seen a couple builds lately that ended up with clearance issues once they got the buggy out of the shop.

Your rig is looking bad ass.

 

[hokie_yj]

Thanks man! I am going to cycle it every way I can and cross my fingers.

 

[GONOVRIT]

Done yet?

 

[hokie_yj]

No. :( I haven't laid a finger on it since the last update on here. I got burnt out working on it. It felt like nothing was going right. I'll get back on it eventually, but right now is shutdown season at work. I'm on night 18 straight of 12+ hrs.

 

[Rockwells607]

Where and what is that autometer gauge? I like it and would be interested in one for my new buggy: edit, I found em online after scrolling through back pages . Looks great I'm curious now as to how well you like it , they don't em away!

 

[hokie_yj]

It's a Pro Comp Pro Dash. I "think" part #6011. I bought it from an online vendor, but I can't remember exactly where. I haven't actually powered it up yet, but it seems like it will be pretty cool. It comes with plug and play senders for oil and fuel pressure and oil and water temperature. I plan to use the oil temp. as a trans. Temp.

 

[jeeptj99]

this thing makes me want to build a single seater.

 

[hokie_yj]

I'm hoping to get back to working on this thing next week.

I've been doing a lot of looking at things and thinking. The angle on the rear driveshaft is really bugging me. I'm thinking about moving the rear axle back 3-4" making the wheelbase roughly 108". I know it won't make a huge difference, but it will help some with the driveshaft angle.

It seems like it will be as simple as just building new links or ordering some 7075 links from WOD, and moving the shock mounts on the chassis. I'll have to do some measuring to see if I'll have enough travel in the driveshaft for it to work.

Just looking for some opinions and input on this before I decide whether or not to do it. So what do you guys think?

 

[wizzo]

Looking at the rear DS angle I would want to do something if possible. Can you roll the rear axle back to where you are thinking and see how much it does to the DS angle before you commit? It looks like your shock mounts on the chassis would be pretty easy to relocate.

 

[hokie_yj]

Yeah I'll try to do that this weekend.

 

[Blase]

With the remote filter on the way can you not move the pillar block closer to the motor and improve the DS angle? 108" WB is only going to help IMO. I might look at doing both.

 

[hokie_yj]

No, I can't really move the carrier bearing any closer. Right now it's only about 1/2" from the shift linkage on the transmission. I really wish I could.

 

[hokie_yj]

When I got home from work tonight I took a few measurements and dusted off the old right angle trig. Right now the horizontal angle at the pinion is 21*. If I move the axle back 4" it should bring it down to 18*, 5" would be 17.25*, and 6" would be 16.66*.

 

[hokie_yj]

Bringing this thread back from the dead. It's been almost a year since I touched this thing last. Honestly I just got burnt out and lost my motivation to work on it. I recently picked up another rig to get me back on the trail since it's been almost 4 years since I last wheeled. Getting the new rig ready to go has got me motivated again to finish this thing.

A few months back I ordered all new 7075 links from WOD. I had the rears made 7.25" longer to move the axle back to help with the driveshaft angle. It's going to require building a longer rear driveshaft, but the one I already had built will also fit the front so I'll have a spare now. And I'll just go ahead build two for the rear and have a spare for both.











This picture shows a before and after of the driveshaft angle.



Moving the axle back also meant I had to build new upper shock mounts, but I had been planning to redo/reinforce them anyway because I've always heard that mounts for ORIs need to be beefier than mounts for air shocks/coilovers due to them also acting as the bumpstops. Over the last couple days before work I got one rear mount done. Still have the other side to do, and I'm also going redo the front upper mounts as well.