The Apocalypse Redux: Nuzzy's return to the trail...

[Lincolnlock]

Sweet!!! Good work! I'm glad to see you getting the chance to work on it! Oh yeah.... nice floor!!! I'm having flashbacks to the last couple of my rigs. (and cascade crawlers)

 

[Nuzzy]

nuzz maybe I missed it but did you end up using a relay to switch on the ignition hot source to the aux fuse panel?

Not yet because I haven't wanted to buy another heavy duty solenoid. I'm still up in the air a bit about how I want it... It might be nice to have some of the fuses with constant power like elec fan, radio for the clock, etc and there's no way to only make part of the panel I have accessory on (it's all or nothing).

The things I really want keyed on are the propane solenoid and push button starter (for obvious drunken friend theft prevention :redneck, the volt meter so it doesn't draw current while sitting, and my HEI ignition so that turning off the key will actually stop my engine instead of waiting for the propane to run out from the solenoid lockoff

Since the propane/starter/volt meter are all very small draws, I could prolly just wire them all to one side of my keyed switch without worry. However, the HEI is a bigger draw (using 10 ga) so that one may need it's own relay...

 

[Nuzzy]

Sweet!!! Good work! I'm glad to see you getting the chance to work on it! Oh yeah.... nice floor!!! I'm having flashbacks to the last couple of my rigs. (and cascade crawlers)

:haha: :haha:

I couldn't remember how much you had cut the floors in yours. Seemed every time I cut on this, I still needed to go more :redneck:

I'm just stoked it'll be back up and driving. Time to play in the snow all winter and then hit up South Dakota next spring :011:

 

[Nuzzy]

Finally got around to replacing my missing cover bolt crash told me to back in May '07 :haha: And drained, RTV'd, and refilled the 300 after loctiteing the clocking ring studs in their final positions.

Yeah... Was thinking I'd prolly have to bend my twin sticks. This upholds that theory :redneck:

I spent a lot of time tonight combing the **** box and making my finally assembly list. I'm pretty pleased with how short it is

 

[Bunk1]

So i trust youve scouted the back yard...Is there a trail there?

 

[Nuzzy]

So i trust youve scouted the back yard...Is there a trail there?

Unfortunately it's pretty flat back there. I'll be able to test stuff out on trees and windblown, but not enough to get the juices flowing :frown:

There is however a rock quarry that has three or four pits within a quarter mile of our house... Can you say ninja night wheelin :redneck:

 

[Nuzzy]

Spent the day tying up odds and ends. I decided for the time being to run my propane solenoid, ignition hot, HEI relay low side, and voltmeter to my keyed switch and leave the rest of the fuse panel always hot.


Finally got around to filling my butane soldering iron up and soldered in all the connections to my HEI ignition and headlights relays.

I love free tools weif brings home

Then I finished soldering up the connections for the headlights (which I wired to the highbeams only :redneck: ). Also got the tail lights wired in to my running lights circuit and finished off all the rock lights.


May just have to bolt in the drive shafts and drive it out of the garage tomorrow :clappy:

 

[KarlVP]

:rockon:

 

[hwcurtice]

I love free tools weif brings home

Have her bring more home.... And I'll send you my address to ship them to.

 

[Nuzzy]

Dinked around on the jeep a bit tonight with some odds and ends. One of the tasks left on the to-do list was figuring out how to get my 3/8 NPT temp sender for my elec fan securely mounted in my radiator. Been scratching my head but went down to the hardware store and found my solution.


Where I wanted sender to read

Found this flange which just needed a little modification

Well, a lot of modification

Hooray for JB Weld

Then I soldered a connector onto the sender to attach to a ground so I don't have to rely on the grounding properties of JB Weld

Also had to cut a bit more floor to clear my rear drive shaft which is now bolted in. Tomorrow once the JB Weld is cured, I should be able to put everything back together.

 

[Binder]

I would test the switch to make sure it's still acurate before putting it all together. The heat from the soldering may have damaged it.....Just put it in some water on the stove with a thermometer and use a multi meter to see what temp it makes continuity and then do the same when it cools........Not sure what to say about the JB weld but let us know how well it works.:awesomework:

 

[Symon623]

git r dun kid..... May is comin up........







Next year. :redneck:

 

[Nuzzy]

I would test the switch to make sure it's still acurate before putting it all together. The heat from the soldering may have damaged it.....Just put it in some water on the stove with a thermometer and use a multi meter to see what temp it makes continuity and then do the same when it cools........Not sure what to say about the JB weld but let us know how well it works.:awesomework:

:haha: :haha:

It is me we're talkin about here... You know I gotta do something completely retarded :redneck:

 

[Nuzzy]

I would test the switch to make sure it's still acurate before putting it all together. The heat from the soldering may have damaged it.....Just put it in some water on the stove with a thermometer and use a multi meter to see what temp it makes continuity and then do the same when it cools

Hit that one on the head Rick :booo:


Now I don't know for certain if it was that, or if it was because the sender got carried around loose in weif's purse for a few weeks. But I tested it and it doesn't seem to work anymore and I know it did when I first got it. :frown:

That's what I get for trying to think :haha: :haha:


New one is on the way.

 

[Binder]

**** happens....

 

[Nuzzy]

Meandered out to the garage tonight and decided to start playing.


First off, tackled installing the HEI ignition.

Old yucky stuff...

New pretty stuff :cheer:

Then I decided to put my clutch linkage back together. Now my linkage has always sucked balls, being on the verge of falling apart. And now that my tranny is 3-4" higher, it became apparent that I'd need to build a drop bracket to get things squared up again. Here's what I came up with. Based on how the linkage is positioned, I don't think it will be forcing the flat bracket to want to bend since the force seems to be torquing downward, but I'll keep an eye on it and add a reinforcing rib if it starts to bend.

Now everything is squared and sturdy, unlike the mess before.

Then it was on to a little task I've been meaning to do ever since I lost a hydro ram pin at Naches because the top cotter pin got knocked out. Someone had suggested I weld washers on to the top so that the pin can only go in one way and can't fall through.

While those were cooling, I grabbed my twin sticks that needed bending and went after them with a BFH. Apparently whatever metal Currie uses is not very malleable because it didn't like getting adjusted with a hammer :haha: So I cut their welds to separate the sticks from the flat stock.

And made my own.

Oh btw, it's kinda neat how an oil infused shop sweatshirt can catch on fire from a stream of sparks during a prolonged cutoff wheel cut. Couldn't even see it at first because it was below a fold as I was bent over until I noticed something glowing that ought not be :redneck:

Anywho, got everything welded up good and solid and painted

Much better

Getting closer... :masturbanana[1]:

 

[Jeepasaurusrex]

Nuzzy, just put the temp sender in the side of the intake manifold. Will read a constant temperature, one not effected by the thermostat. :redneck:

 

[Nuzzy]

Nuzzy, just put the temp sender in the side of the intake manifold. Will read a constant temperature, one not effected by the thermostat. :redneck:

There was a discussion on the different ways to mount it, but Neck's answer made the most sense to me:

What temp range is the fan switch, and what temp is your thermostat?

If the switch is a lower temp than the thermostat, and you have it mounted in the motor, it will tell the fan to kick on before the stat opens. That means the coolant in the radiator is getting really cold. Then the stat opens, dumps hot water into the radiator and cold water in the motor. Water is too cold, and closes thermostat. Also, cold water tells temp switch to turn off fan (even though you just put hot water in the radiator). Water in motor heats up again, turns fan on first, then opens stat, dumps cold water, blah, blah, blah......

I prefer them in the radiator. Motor heats up, opens stat. Water starts flowing. Warm water reaches switch in radiator, turns on fan. Water is cycling and staying pretty constant.

Just my .02

 

[Symon623]

lookin good Nuzz, I was gonna make a :redneck: comment about JB welding the shifters but i refrained..... my sessions are showing improvement. :eeek:

 

[Binder]

Hooray for JB Weld

I been thinking that I may do something simillar to this as well. Nuzzy did you do any research on this and how electrolysis may or may not be a factor with the dissimillar metals? If I do it, it would probably be copper on a aluminum radiator....Maybe radiator epoxy rather than JB weld..