To RCV or Not...

creepycrawly · Apr 13, 2015

Lets hear some opinions.

Just bought another TJ to wheel. It has a Rubicon D44 up front and has Alloy USA chromoly shafts with CTM U joints and an ARB. My initial thought was that I would pull the shafts and sell them, using the proceeds to cover a large portion of a set of RCV's for the front.

Benefits to this are that I get RCV's and the warranty. If I do it BEFORE i break one of the chromos or the CTMs, it won't cost me an arm and a leg. If I wait until I break a shaft to make the swap, its gonna cost a lot more because Ill recoup less from the shafts, obviously.

My concern is that its geared 5.13 so the pinion gear is tiny. I would have to move the weak link from an easily replaced shaft to a ring and pinion. I am running 37 Krawlers and wheel most of the Alabama parks.

With that being said, should I:

1. Wheel the Alloys until I break one and then buy a set of TenFactory shafts so I have a warranty?
2.Sell the superiors and go with RCV's...hope I don't smoke a R&P?
3. Keep the CTM's and throw a set of non chromo outers on it to leave the weak link there so that it is easily and cheaply fixed?

Lets hear some opinions. I am not going back to tons and 40's. Just came from that. Don't have the coin for a fancy 9" front housing right now. May build a real D44 in the future for it, but thats not really on the table right now either.

ATX780 · Apr 13, 2015

I had RCVs in my 4 door JK Dana 44 running 5.13 gears and 37" Nitto MudGrapplers, and I put a pretty good beating on them on all the time (wheeled mostly at Hawk Pride or HotSprings ORV) and I never had an issue with R&P (surprisingly enough) OR shafts. Clyde had 40" MudGrapplers on his with no issue.

However, you are correct in saying that you're moving you're weak link to the ring and pinion...

I'd personally go for the RCVs... but that's just me.

creepycrawly · Apr 13, 2015

Thanks for the input. My only reservation there is that the JK axles have a significantly bigger ring and pinion than the TJ axles.

jeeptj99 · Apr 13, 2015

RCV's pay for themselves IMO. The feeling of not having to worry about snapping a u-joint sold me. As far as the pinion goes if you break it spend the money and get a cryotreated set of gears. That's my plan if my pinion lets go.

creepycrawly · Apr 13, 2015

What gears are you running?

paradisepwoffrd · Apr 13, 2015

Re:

You can upgrade the front to the jk gears: http://www.jantz4x4.com//jantz.php?p=detail&pro=jana_k4

creepycrawly · Apr 13, 2015

Thats a neat concept. Had never seen it before.

bdillon2372 · Apr 13, 2015

I'm a firm believer in RCV, I love the fact that there is no u-joint to bind (this was my biggest aggravation with other brands), they really are super strong and plus they are great folks that actually listen to your input...

Mortalis5509 · Apr 13, 2015

Re:

I rave a tj rubi on 5.13's, rcv's, and 37's reds without an issue. Picked the whole front end up with one tire without an issue. Just wheel smart with 37" reds with those axles because it will not take stilupid abuse.

mac5005 · Apr 13, 2015

Are you seeing a lot of road time without unlocking the front at the hubs or pulling the drive flanges?

Rcvs can handle extended road usage better than the Ctm or super joints.

I know it sounds silly to make a decision based on road usage, but it makes a difference when each is designed very differently.

The good ujoints need frequent greasing after road miles as the grease gets slung out of the joint as it spins at highway speeds.

Rcvs don't have that problem.

Short trips on the road don't hurt them but long commutes do.

If you have lockout hubs or pull the flanges often then sorry this post is of no help.

creepycrawly · Apr 13, 2015

Re:

Mortalis5509 said:
I rave a tj rubi on 5.13's, rcv's, and 37's reds without an issue. Picked the whole front end up with one tire without an issue. Just wheel smart with 37" reds with those axles because it will not take stilupid abuse.

Exactly the kind of feedback I was looking for. Mine aren't even stickies so that inspires confidence. Thanks!

creepycrawly · Apr 13, 2015

mac5005 said:
Are you seeing a lot of road time without unlocking the front at the hubs or pulling the drive flanges?

Rcvs can handle extended road usage better than the Ctm or super joints.

I know it sounds silly to make a decision based on road usage, but it makes a difference when each is designed very differently.

The good ujoints need frequent greasing after road miles as the grease gets slung out of the joint as it spins at highway speeds.

Rcvs don't have that problem.

Short trips on the road don't hurt them but long commutes do.

If you have lockout hubs or pull the flanges often then sorry this post is of no help.

This was actually another factor I was considering. It doesn't have hubs and I won't pull the driveshaft. It actually will see quite a bit of street use to include a 500 mile round trip regularly. It's a big reason I was thinking RCV's to start with. I just didn't mention it above. Thanks for the input.

BUG-E J · Apr 13, 2015

RCV'S

creepycrawly · Apr 13, 2015

Yep...doing it.

kushKrawlin · Apr 14, 2015

May want to keep in mind, if you call Dave's offroad, you can get Yukon full axle set for half the price.. He will standby the lifetime warrenty. No ****. Just something to think about and save a good bit. This was the case on Dana 60 stuff. I'm sure its the same. But at the same time, something about them orange balls in the knuckles that have to make Ya feel all warm and fuzzy Inside. :****:

BUG-E J · Apr 14, 2015

rednecklights said:
I agree with calling Dave. Lifetime warranty and half what rcv's will cost .... I couldn't understand in a 7-800 hp racer but rcv's in a 44 ?

They do have bling factor ....

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Some people like to beat their junk and not worry about breaking. :smoke:

jccarter1 · Apr 14, 2015

BUG-E J said:
Some people like to beat their junk and not worry about breaking. :smoke:

Haha

piper likes to break stuff when he rides it helps up his street credit :driving:

creepycrawly · Apr 14, 2015

Casey, I definitely thought about that. My issue with the CTMs or the super joints that come in the yukons is the maintenance schedule. The jeep lives in MS with me and its 4 hours to get to choccolocco or Morris mountain. I sold the tow pig and trailer after the last jeep. That's why I bought a gayzer. The intent with the TJ on 37s is that it is still street friendly. The super joints put me back in the same boat I am in now, and I KNOW stock spicer u joints won't hold up. I don't want to have the hassle of replacing them all the time even under warranty. If someone will take my shafts and CTMs off my hands, I'll bite the bullet and go RCV but I won't give these shafts away either. I think $650 is fair. For less than that, I'll run them till I break something and then figure out what to do. Thanks for the input fellas!

ole heep · Apr 14, 2015

Just do the RCV's and be DONE!!!
Yes it will be more $ but at the end of the day you will be VERY HAPPY with ur decision and not that much more out of pocket if u sell ur old axles.