Toyota clutch options and advise

crash2 · Mar 19, 2013

POR said:
I don't think they make a stage II for yota, I think they have an upgraded stock and dual friction

Thats too bad---that was there best option for a small toy disc..

WHITE TRASH1 · Mar 19, 2013

I had zero issues with my marlin 1600 clutch. It replaced the stock one that smoked at 128k and was still perfect when I sold it to out an auto in. Centerforce makes a good clutch but the pressure plate weights are a gimmick at best. I have a zoom dual friction in my 2x dd and its a nice clutch with very little slip so I wouldn't recommend it for a wheeler. It is great for 6k clutch dumps and chirping 3rd however. :redneck:

Avanteone · Mar 19, 2013

Support your local NW Vendors.

I can do the Centerforce Dual Friction for $469 or an OE Japanese kit for $250. Both are in stock locally, could round up within an hour or so. Keep in mind the CF kit doesn't include pilot or throwout bearing, so a few extra bucks for those if you want the CF kit. And I would ALWAYS get the flywheel machined when doing new clutch.

John

Anthony1 · Mar 19, 2013

Avanteone said:
Support your local NW Vendors.

I can do the Centerforce Dual Friction for $469 or an OE Japanese kit for $250. Both are in stock locally, could round up within an hour or so. Keep in mind the CF kit doesn't include pilot or throwout bearing, so a few extra bucks for those if you want the CF kit. And I would ALWAYS get the flywheel machined when doing new clutch.

John

I agree. :awesomework:
I always try to support local business. I would stay away from any of the trail gear junk, its cheaper for a reason.:beer:

KP81 · Mar 19, 2013

I vote for marlin, I used them on the last 2 trucks I built. Never had any problems getting them, and they hold up great.

I have a friend who ran a dual friction and when he pulled it off the flywheel had heat cracks in it. I'm not saying that the clutch is the problem it could have been the way he drives. I have only wheeled with him twice and that was in the snow.

I would stick with the stock flywheel and have it flywheel machined its cheap enough and usually same day turn around depending on the shop doing it.

So I vote Marlin or OE, in that order.

jprcrpr94 · Mar 19, 2013

Anthony said:
I agree. :awesomework:
I always try to support local business. I would stay away from any of the trail gear junk, its cheaper for a reason.:beer:

But what is the reason? If the factory stuff is best, then how is tg's kit bad? They say it's an Aisin/Seco kit. I know most of tg's stuff is of lesser quality and that's why it's cheaper, but if the clutch kit they sell is actual Aisin/Seco then what exactly makes it less quality than the Marlin kit? I'm not trying to defend TG, I just don't wanna spend extra money just for a name. Can someone let me know what the difference is in the kits Marlin sells compared to TG's? Besides the typical, "Trail Gear is junk!" response. I want an actual reason.

lilyota · Mar 19, 2013

https://www.centerforce.com/product...6-toyota-celica-corona-pick-ups-4runner-supra.

Centerforce two from $230- 260

https://www.centerforce.com/product...6-toyota-celica-corona-pick-ups-4runner-supra

Centerforce dual around $300

Avanteone · Mar 19, 2013

lilyota said:
https://www.centerforce.com/product...6-toyota-celica-corona-pick-ups-4runner-supra.

Centerforce two from $230- 260

https://www.centerforce.com/product...6-toyota-celica-corona-pick-ups-4runner-supra

Centerforce dual around $300

OP Stated it was a V6 truck:
https://www.centerforce.com/products/online-store/mode/filter?sort=name&order=ascending

lilyota · Mar 19, 2013

My bad didn't even notice, just go with the stocker Aisin then, save money for your vavle job since he at 180 on 3slow

CarnationSensation · Mar 20, 2013

Thank you all for your responses. Gunna go with the Marlin clutch. They only offer it in the 1200 # for the V6 but that should still be good.

Pulled my tranny last night and found out that my pressure plate was so full of mud that it would not engage. Clutch was not shot, just wasnt grabbing casue the pressure plate was stuck open and now makes since as to why the pedal was so stiff. Probably had a few thousand more miles to go but oh well.

Anothe quick question, ive never really worked on motors but if my rear main is not leaking should i replace it anyway cause im in there or leave it as it is? Ive always gone with if it aint broke dont fix it.

Thanks again

WHITE TRASH1 · Mar 20, 2013

On the 3.ohs hitit

overheatedandshatteredbothheadsagain if it ain't leaking leave it alone.

CarnationSensation · Mar 20, 2013

WHITE TRASH said:
On the 3.ohsoverheatedandshatteredbothheadsagain if it ain't leaking leave it alone.

:haha: i like that one!

And thanks, ill leave it be for now.

I do have headers on it tho and only aobut 10K miles since the factory recall was done where they replaced the entire head because the original one was warped so bad it couldnt be milled. Valves and head gaskets should be good for a while, knock on wood.

WHITE TRASH1 · Mar 20, 2013

Headers seem to make the biggest difference in longevity since they keep the #5 cylinder from cooking due to the engineertards at Toyota deciding it was a good idea to wrap it with exhaust on 2 sides and leave the head torque low as well... Oops! did a writeup on replumbing an oil line to keep the #5 cylinder from filling with oil when flopped onto that side. Just a couple items that'll help that time bomb last a bit longer. :redneck: