Ok leaving friday to the hammer with two rigs on my gooseneck and i cant get the new brakes to lock up or even work very much. I hooked 12v to each wheel and the brakes lock right up. I have a junction box in the middle of the trailer so i tested it there with 12vs and it locks up if i hook the ground and the positive up. If i hook it up to the truck i cant get the brakes to work more than just a slight tug. I tried adjusting my prodigy controller and it goes to 6.0 but it still wont stop the trailer. Should i be getting more volts from the prodigy? The wiring is brand new 7wire jacketed wire so no crappy wires. Should i be running a ground from the brakes to the plug or can i ground it to the trailer frame? Could that be a source of the problem? Sorry if its vague but im just burned out on chasing this brake problem down.
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Trailer brakes
- Thread starter budgetxj
- Start date
messix
Well-Known Member
how many axel trailer?
biglug
Well-Known Member
the prodigy bc should max out on the reed out to 12 it also has a life time warranty should be able to go any were that sells it and have it checked and or replaced
if your brakes on your trailer work with 12v could be a bad prodigy
if your brakes on your trailer work with 12v could be a bad prodigy
ain'tstuckjustresting
RIP Mister 12/5/12
Chassis ground is fine as long as the ground wire in the plug has a good connection to the frame also. If you activate the manual lever does it lock up? What type of tow rig? Did the brake controller work w/ another trailer?
Did you buy the controller jumper harness at napa? Sorry for all the ?'s but trying to help.
Did you buy the controller jumper harness at napa? Sorry for all the ?'s but trying to help.
messix
Well-Known Member
check the voltage at one of the brakes while some one holds the manual control to full brake. you might have to much voltage loss thru the wire and will need to,
1. ground the brakes to a common ground on the trailer chassis, as short as possible.
2. run at least a 10 ga wire to the truck side harness and on the trailer side to the brakes. make sure all splices are clean from corosion.
1. ground the brakes to a common ground on the trailer chassis, as short as possible.
2. run at least a 10 ga wire to the truck side harness and on the trailer side to the brakes. make sure all splices are clean from corosion.
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
On a Prodigy, 6.3 nets higher voltage/more powerful braking; try that....:corn:
ain'tstuckjustresting
RIP Mister 12/5/12
When you step on the pedal does the LED on the controller turn full red or just orange? On mine I hold the brake and adjust the knob on the left (aggresiveness or delay) untill the LED is red. Then adjust the gain on the right while driving since the load varies. Also make sure the controller isn't mounted too vertically. In my wife's 02' Ram she will kick it and tilt it then complain her horse trailer brakes are dicked up. Also can use a coin to hold the manual lever over then check voltage down the line. should be close to 12v. all the way to the drums.
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Prodigy doesn't have the lil LED, they're Digital!:redneck:... You've likely got a Voyager...:awesomework:
Binder
Well-Known Member
10 Ga wire is way overkill for trailer brakes.
Likely either there is a bad ground or the controller isn't set up properly.
ceb0217
Well-Known Member
Brakes wired so it only gets 6 volts to each wheel
ain'tstuckjustresting
RIP Mister 12/5/12
How and why would someone do that?
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
My guess is they wired the two wheels on one side in series (12v to front wheel, then tied the ground for that wheel to the 12v for the other wheel, THEN grounded that wheel, Am I close????
they're brakes, not batteries. I dont think your close.
ain'tstuckjustresting
RIP Mister 12/5/12
Yep! There will be some voltage drop but the increased resistance will increase the amperage and likely blow the fuse or kill the controller.
jeffroadams
Well-Known Member
i always wire my brakes in series
