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Trailer Tie Down Methods (Best Practices)

Re: Trailer Tie Down Methods

Running a rollback with my old man growing up, gotta have at least one plus one safety on each end, seen it save a vehicle from bouncing off the aspault. Never do I use just one, have friends that do, but luck goes both ways. Also I like pulling the sway outta the sesspenssion as well like a couple others mentioned.
 
Re: Trailer Tie Down Methods

xjkrawler said:
I use 4 straps with axle straps. I cross mine front and rear.


This is what I do and once I found the sweet spot I screwed a short 2x4 to the trailer in front of my rear driver side tire that way I can pull to the same spot every time.
 
Re: Trailer Tie Down Methods



Best pic I could find of towing mine. I criss cross with axle straps, then take the remaining 20' and go around the axle fore and aft several wraps. Pull the rig forward in gear to load the fore/aft straps, and bind down the opposite way on the front.
 
Re: Trailer Tie Down Methods

The problem I have with crossed straps it you might as well have just put one strap front and rear. With 4 INDEPENDANT straps to the axle going to points straight behind and in front of the axle. Then any one strap can come off and the other three maintain their integrity. If you cross straps and you loose one strap, then the vehicle can shift toward the remaining strap making it loose and ineffective.
 
Re: Trailer Tie Down Methods

sleepsontoilet said:


Best pic I could find of towing mine. I criss cross with axle straps, then take the remaining 20' and go around the axle fore and aft several wraps. Pull the rig forward in gear to load the fore/aft straps, and bind down the opposite way on the front.

I have never noticed this style of strapping a vehicle to a trailer but I like it also nice F150 :dblthumb:
 
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I used chains and binder on front to frame, not crossed. I compress the leafs down to the bump stops which is about 3.5".

In the back I run chains and binders to the axle, and use 12k ratchet straps to compress the coil overs down to the air bumps. This way there are 4 points on the rear of vehicle.

Just have to bind the suspension before tightening the binders on the rear.

When I tied to only the axles, the jeep would lean in corners and push the trailer to sway when hit bumps, especially in curves.
 
Re: Trailer Tie Down Methods

JohnG said:
The problem I have with crossed straps it you might as well have just put one strap front and rear. With 4 INDEPENDANT straps to the axle going to points straight behind and in front of the axle. Then any one strap can come off and the other three maintain their integrity. If you cross straps and you loose one strap, then the vehicle can shift toward the remaining strap making it loose and ineffective.

I understand your mindset, and agree to an extent. But, what if you only use a single strap, and it comes off? Now you have nothing at all holding it together, correct? With as many wraps as I put on the rear it's 2) two part scissors lines, and 2) 6-8 part fore and aft. I just don't see it coming apart holding a sub 3k buggy other than the trailer taking a barrel roll. Also, I run really short leads, so it can only move so far anyways.

Viking, I really liked it to until someone wanted to get a good look at it. I was dead stopped in rush hour and he never tapped the brakes. The 4.6 pulled pretty nice considering. I went ahead and upgraded to a 2014 CCLB Dodge dually.

 
Re: Trailer Tie Down Methods

sleepsontoilet said:
I understand your mindset, and agree to an extent. But, what if you only use a single strap, and it comes off? Now you have nothing at all holding it together, correct? With as many wraps as I put on the rear it's 2) two part scissors lines, and 2) 6-8 part fore and aft. I just don't see it coming apart holding a sub 3k buggy other than the trailer taking a barrel roll. Also, I run really short leads, so it can only move so far anyways.

It looked like you were just tieing the tails of the straps in the straight fashion, which would do no good. If you are using 4 separate straps on the rear, kudos. That is probably the best.
 
Re: Trailer Tie Down Methods

I only use ratchet straps with axle straps. I have seem too many open end straps come undone. I use (4) one on each corner.
It doesn't always get strapped down the same way because it seems like each trip I am hauling different rides. (just mine or 2 rigs or mine and a rzr/ quads, mine and a bunch of quads and so on )

But always always always go to the axles, make sure they are cinched down good ( if you run low tire pressure and don't tighten them down well the tires can flex up and down with the bumps just like the suspension can) something to think about

I also use my winch as well as the 4 straps. Some of the guys give me a hard time about using 5 tie down points but my rebuttal is always the same: " I work too hard for my $, and spend way too much time and $ on these toys to see one get ruined/destroyed because I was too lazy to strap one down right"

for the guys with the rigs that are 8ft tall/ rock welledrigs that sit high / 3ft of leaf springs and so on, I can see where your suspension swaying would feel uneasy. I would use your winch for a suck down like some of the other guys recommended.

my 2c thumb.gif
 
Re: Trailer Tie Down Methods

I have also found it easier to arrange the ratchets so you are pulling away from the vehicle, rather than pushing toward it. Get more pressure when you can put your legs and back into it.

Rich showed me something one time when using an open trailer. Before the ratchet gets tight, feed to tail of the strap into the ratchet, thereby capturing the tail and not having to tie it off.

If you have a lot of left over webbing and only use the straps to tie down, cut off the excess and burn the ends with a lighter to keep from freying.
 
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Don't pull your straps real tight before tightening. They'll hold tighter if you get more strap in the ratchet. I took the hooks off the end of my straps and put short chain ends on them that way I can loop them down and back up to hook to the stake pocket that keeps it from coming unhooked if the strap loosens up. My straps also have built in axle straps and the hooks have catches so they can't come undone either.
 
Re: Trailer Tie Down Methods

It should be noted that this style ratchet strap:

mtd-511208_w.jpg


Is designed to go on a D-ring, axle strap, or some attachment point where the safety catch can close. If one did loosen, it cannot come loose. Do not hook over a piece of angle iron or stake pocket that would hold open the safety lock.


Also IMO, store straps out of weather, wet straps seem to have more stretch than dry straps.
 
Re: Trailer Tie Down Methods

JohnG said:
It should be noted that this style ratchet strap:

mtd-511208_w.jpg


Is designed to go on a D-ring, axle strap, or some attachment point where the safety catch can close. If one did loosen, it cannot come loose. Do not hook over a piece of angle iron or stake pocket that would hold open the safety lock.


Also IMO, store straps out of weather, wet straps seem to have more stretch than dry straps.

This is what I use except mine came from tractor supply along with some weld on D Rings that they sell. Keep mine in a small duffle bag under my back seat.
 
Re: Trailer Tie Down Methods

Agree with JohnG...i just bought my 2nd set of Macs over the axle straps. And I do not cross. These are the way to go. great service too.
 
Re: Trailer Tie Down Methods

Maybe I'm just not seeing the magnitude of the situation but I've only used two straps one front one rear!? I go down through stake pockets and hook the strap from the top, even if the strap gets slack the hook can't come off. I've never had a strap break nor have I had a wreck while towing but after hauling 7-8 rigs and never having a problem I'll just keep on doing it my way! :flipoff1:
 
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