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u-joint removal/installation tool?

the problem I ran into with trying to press it out, is that the toy u-joints are to angled and it just jamed the cap in there, I think it would have worked well if they where flat on the out side of the joint, but just my guess.

and the bfh did not get the caps to travel far enough to remove them, a cutting wheel did it:awesomework: just more pieces to throw away in the end.
 
the problem I ran into with trying to press it out, is that the toy u-joints are to angled and it just jamed the cap in there, I think it would have worked well if they where flat on the out side of the joint, but just my guess.

and the bfh did not get the caps to travel far enough to remove them, a cutting wheel did it:awesomework: just more pieces to throw away in the end.

a hammer and joint and a cutoff wheel are more expensive than a toyota shaft or yoke. I love using old joints that have rusted in and do not let go as long as they are tight and greased.
 
I used to torch joints out on old 44 axles i had resplined for my bronco back in the day. But those axles always seemed to fail easier than non-torched axles. May have just been my imagination though. Anyway, i plasma out the joints now on fronts just to be safe.

WTF??? you only need a torch for GM driveshafts (maybe others).

why do you need to torch D44 axle joints? if you do, yes they will fail.

my real question = how do you plazma out a joint????????? it sound real fun.

all this talk of joints has me jonesin!!
 
my first boss tought me how using a home made lead bfh. a 10 pound fishing weight with a foot long piece of pipe melted into it. it is by far the best/easiest/fastest way ive ever done it. i dont have a lead hammer now so i usually use the vise and socket method if im at home, the ball joint tool if im at a buddys house that doesnt have a vise, the most creative ive done when i had none of the above i drilled 2 holes in the back of my frame bolted the drive flange to it and used a bfh...
 
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