KarlVP
Love that TOYOTA
Allow me to rephrase.
You could get started on a 60 or 9 inch build.
Wheel your 30 until you finish the 60.
What I plan on doing.
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Ultimate Dana 30/44 CV Joint
- Thread starter Wildman1
- Start date
Allow me to rephrase.
You could get started on a 60 or 9 inch build.
Wheel your 30 until you finish the 60.
What I plan on doing.
WHITE TRASH1
fruit stripe
Meh, not everyone drops 5g's on a ready to go 9/60.. Personally I'd get the housing for under $600 and put standard gm/dodge ends and outer's on it and still be under 2g's.... Then just upgrade as ya go...
PORTER
Well-Known Member
And the Turd polishing continues.
And the Turd polishing continues.
Hows that 44 holdong up in the rear of you buggy?:fawkdancesmiley:
WHITE TRASH1
fruit stripe
And the Turd polishing continues.
And you fawkers make fun of us yotards... :haha:
May as well put start making them for sami's next... They shouldn't cost much, the shafts are no bigger than my index finger. :cheer:
Meh, not everyone drops 5g's on a ready to go 9/60.. Personally I'd get the housing for under $600 and put standard gm/dodge ends and outer's on it and still be under 2g's.... Then just upgrade as ya go...
Do the math, you'll see the light then. a spider 9 for 2 g's is impossible.
$500 housing
$500 bare 60 housing with c's and knuckles ( add a few hundred for a housing with wheel hub's and spindles, still 8 lug and undesirable)
$900 3rd member loaded with a spool, gear's, set up kit...blah blah blah
$600 axle shafts and stocker u joints
$150 splining
$150 drive flanges or locking hub's
$?150 wheel bearing's
$100 spindle kit's
$150 ball joint's or trunion kit's
$3200, on the cheap, part's only (not even all of them), not totally fresh, junk low end stuff, doing all labor for yourself
PORTER
Well-Known Member
Blew the fawker up, so i am going to Queer steer it with a polished 30. Gonna be serious pimpin.:fawkdancesmiley:
WHITE TRASH1
fruit stripe
Damn, I wanna know where your shopping so I can avoid that shiat... :haha:
Used man, fawking used and doing it yourself.. Not everyone can whip out a visa and pay someone to do it..
Personally I'd grab some BJ inner C's and TTB outters and go with it from there... But that's just me, I'm yotarded. :redneck:
:rb:
well you find the prices on the c's and knuckles that are so cheap.
you gonna find a used 35 spline spool, used gear's, used bearing's in good shape, youd be foolish to not replace the wheel bearing's, ball joint's..... still gotta buy shaft's and spline them. It's real easy to imagine how cheap it could be till you actually do it. ask anybody that has built an axle from scratch:;
well you find the prices on the c's and knuckles that are so cheap.
you gonna find a used 35 spline spool, used gear's, used bearing's in good shape, youd be foolish to not replace the wheel bearing's, ball joint's..... still gotta buy shaft's and spline them. It's real easy to imagine how cheap it could be till you actually do it. ask anybody that has built an axle from scratch:;
WHITE TRASH1
fruit stripe
I'm not going to get into a pissing match, I'm just saying it CAN be done cheap.... I can grab a complete ttb big hub front locally for $200 the inner C's I honestly have no idea used but new aren't that bad. The only thing that'd HAVE to be done is the inner shafts and thats only a couple bills from Jantz...
Although I have priced out doing one myself and it came out to about 9g's... Pretty much as polished as possible...
Although I have priced out doing one myself and it came out to about 9g's... Pretty much as polished as possible...
Exactly. Which would you rather dump $1000 on aftermarket shafts for?
So then, you're going to convert your HP44 to unit bearing D30 outers? Since that is all I see on their site, I'm assuming that's all they offer... pointless unless you have a Rubicon D44.
The rubicon D44 uses a carrier that is the same as the "4.10" low gear carrier for most D44's, but the carrier itself is a slight bit wider... so it won't fit into a standard D44 housing, which means you need to either machine some off the carrier where the bearings seat or some off the housing itself to make it fit. Then you get to deal with the fact that the ring gear bolts are a different size, so either you run whatever gears are available for a Rubicon D44 only, or you drill out the holes on the carrier to accept standard D44 ring gear bolts. I haven't heard of anyone running a Rubicon air or electric locker in their regular D44 yet, since most people seem to think they're gold plated (including the dealer), and there are better solutions out there (ARB) for similar costs.
Oh and don't forget... the Rubicon D44 is low pinion, only marginally better (arguable) than a HP Dana 30 center chunk.
The only reason Jeep put the D44 in the front of the Rubicon is so that they could say it was stronger... "because it's a Dana 44, not a weak-ass Dana 30", and because it uses the same air locker and gear set as the rear axle, so the whole mess is cheaper to produce.
Oh, but, yeah, it's a "REAL" Dana 44, because that's what Jeep named it. :awesomework:
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CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
anyone hear what Bobby has to say on this one? I was under the impression that these were not safe to run because you had to grind off half of the yoke or c assembly if I remember correct. that leaves the possibilty of never breaking an axle cuz your dead after hitting a bus on the hiway while driving to the trail when the knuckle busts off?
I have seeen these at Bob's before about a year ago. and NO you cant get them for a normal 44 cuz theres not enough room between the BJs, only works on shitty tall C 30/r44s. they wont even fit through the spindle hole of a tapered wheel bearing axle.
apparently RCV is OK with accepting the liability issue with these questionable shafts.
I can see this being another, trailgear VS marlin story already.
Bobby should be covering all makes and models of birfs or someone else will.:corn:
I have seeen these at Bob's before about a year ago. and NO you cant get them for a normal 44 cuz theres not enough room between the BJs, only works on shitty tall C 30/r44s. they wont even fit through the spindle hole of a tapered wheel bearing axle.
apparently RCV is OK with accepting the liability issue with these questionable shafts.
I can see this being another, trailgear VS marlin story already.
Bobby should be covering all makes and models of birfs or someone else will.:corn:
I bought 2 sets of axles that need no improvment, factory locker, discs, and bullet proof. first set $3500+ $300 in seals, kingpins ect. Second set $1000+ $300-$400 for misc ****. Now I have 2 bulletproof steering axles and have sold some extra parts to make back $2500.... not a bad way to go.
But my sterring angle and ground clearance suck
But my sterring angle and ground clearance suck
Wildman1
Well-Known Member
Nope not planning on going to the late model inner "C" of the D30/44.
It said on the page other lengths available so didn't know what that ment. If they won't fit on a full size style "C" then I guess I can't use them.
For me at this point I don't see the need to upgrade to a D60. The HP44 is holding up and so far I have blown 1 U-joint and that was a stock joint not a aftermarket joint. I now have Bobby's u-joints. It has been in my mind for a while that if I ever really started breaking shafts and u-joints that I would get a 35 spline ARB and put on D60 "C". I know then it moves the weak point to the R&P. So far that doesn't seem to be a issue.
Thanks for the info. Next question, I wonder if they will make them to fit the new JK axles? They are HP and have bigger ball joints and such.
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Booo. That sucks. I was ready to order my pair right now too. Too bad they won't fit my axle.
I'm with Wildman on this one. I have a Ford HP 44 re-tubed to Waggy width with .375 or .500 inch thick tubes. My 5500 pound V8 powered ZJ is not nice to it's drive train parts, especially the way I use it. My front axle was purchased used so it was a good deal for me. The Yukon shafts and Superjoints have yet to fail me. Most of the guys running 60s in ZJs (or XJs) end up with really tall rigs. It is hard to keep the axles close to the chassis and the vehicle's COG low when the axle housing is so big. Not to mention having to run 38 inch or larger tires to keep the center section off the ground.
A 60 front is far easier to make work in a buggy than a daily driven full bodied rig. I also don't need 600 pounds of un-sprung weight up front when I'm doing 50 mph across washboard roads.
I knew I never wanted to run tires bigger than 35s on my rig so a fully built HP44 made sense to me. I don't mud bog and like my trail runs to be fun and reliant on skill to get over the terrain.
There is no doubt 60s are strong. I do also think they are a trend. There are many wheelers out there who think they need a 60 when a 44 would serve them just fine.
A HP 44 is very strong. It's weak link is the axle and u-joint size limitations.
I'm with Wildman on this one. I have a Ford HP 44 re-tubed to Waggy width with .375 or .500 inch thick tubes. My 5500 pound V8 powered ZJ is not nice to it's drive train parts, especially the way I use it. My front axle was purchased used so it was a good deal for me. The Yukon shafts and Superjoints have yet to fail me. Most of the guys running 60s in ZJs (or XJs) end up with really tall rigs. It is hard to keep the axles close to the chassis and the vehicle's COG low when the axle housing is so big. Not to mention having to run 38 inch or larger tires to keep the center section off the ground.
A 60 front is far easier to make work in a buggy than a daily driven full bodied rig. I also don't need 600 pounds of un-sprung weight up front when I'm doing 50 mph across washboard roads.
I knew I never wanted to run tires bigger than 35s on my rig so a fully built HP44 made sense to me. I don't mud bog and like my trail runs to be fun and reliant on skill to get over the terrain.
There is no doubt 60s are strong. I do also think they are a trend. There are many wheelers out there who think they need a 60 when a 44 would serve them just fine.
A HP 44 is very strong. It's weak link is the axle and u-joint size limitations.
zuk88
Well-Known Member
Had you guys do my D44 and 9" and it does cost a lot to do it right even if you already have the housings
