What are the actual mechanical differences between the couple of different lockers that the detroit name sells. I know that there are a couple of different ones...just don't remember the names for all of them off the top of my head.
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Which locker?
- Thread starter wentz912
- Start date
If I was on a budget I would run a spool in the rear and a ARB,OX,or Factory toy locker in the front. I like the ability to unlock the front when turning sharp. I went ARB f/r because I figure I'll save $ on tires in the long run knowing a Spool,welded, or crappy working ez or detroit will wear out my tires quik on the street.
KarlVP
Love that TOYOTA
wentz912 said:
There is the full Detroit locker that replaces your carrier entirely (what I have front and rear) these units are strong and reliable. For daily driving street use they aren't BAD. You just have to get used to them. I daily drive my rig and it has a few quirks, but nothing I can't handle. These units allow one tire to unlock in a turn, but when power is applies 100% of your Torque goes to both wheels.
The Detroit "Soft locker" you may hear of, is just a regular detroit that Tractech claims is less noisy as it ratchets.
The Detroit Truetrac is a full carrier replacement but it is a limited slip device. Great for tow rigs or mild wheeling, but not worth it for more serious wheeling.
The Detroit EZ locker is a "lunchbox" locker. You replace your spider gears with the locker unit. It is the same thing as an aussie or lock-right.
The Detroit or Eaton E locker is a selectable locker. When off, it is a open differential. When engaged it is a full spool.
The Suretrac is like an open differential but backwards. When one wheel starts slipping, it applies the torque to the wheel with the MOST traction.
And finally you may hear of the "gearless" locker. These are for ATV's and Rhinos. Small utility vehicles.
Alpine4x4
Well-Known Member
U sure? Toyota didnt offer factory e-lockers pre 95 in 4runners, only land cruisers.FordFrk06 said:
2pwrlftrs4u
NWW Meanie
KarlVP said:
same here, not that bad on the road, i have front and rear in my CJ5. the only time really feel it load/unload is if i am heavy on the pedal on take offs
Dain Bramage
Well-Known Member
all i know is what odie told me, its out of a 94 4runner limited.Alpine4x4 said:
KarlVP said:
Soo....the Truetrac and the Suretrac are essentially the same thing then? Because now that I've thought about it. I won't be doing anything more than mild wheeling with my stock axles and some 30's, maybe 32's sometime later on this year. If I ever being able to afford to get into wheeling a little more hardcore. And if I am able to get into it more, I will definitely go into some fullsize axles...yada yada yada you know. Which would defeat the purpose of spending a bunch of money on traction aids for my stock axles correct?
79chevy39.5's
Well-Known Member
well its more of it does unlock but when he goes around corners its usualy locked back up because of accel64FJ40 said:
KarlVP
Love that TOYOTA
wentz912 said:
In my opinion, wheel your rig OPEN with a winch on it. Go out with a club and find out if wheeling is for you. A club like mine (www.timbertamers.org) is a great place to learn about wheeling and find out if it is for you.
A winch is 100% the best thing you can ever get for your rig. Start wheeling and then figure out from expierence what you want for traction enhancment.
Yeah a winch would probably work wonders for me too. But with the wheeling i've already done I've run into a lot more problems where I end up needing just that bit more traction in order to be able to do something and tread lightly at the same time, which is of course important to all of us am I right? I'm just looking at a way to maximize my enjoyment, with the minimum amount of expense and impact on the environment. Besides, I'm young, I'm still able to use a handwinch:flipoff:
Alpine4x4
Well-Known Member
Musta been swapped in from a newer rig then.FordFrk06 said:
if you're not going to upgrade your axle shafts, truetracks front and rear aren't a bad way to go and will get you quite a ways further down the trail than being open. they're easier on the drivetrain than a detroit.
welded rear or spools is not good for a street driven vehicle
welded rear or spools is not good for a street driven vehicle
its funny how these threads go....
as I've progressed through the years, styles, equipment, and preferences change....
I used to swear by detroits (or really, any 'automatic' locker that will hold up) in both ends....
then I swapped an ARB in the front, and thought the detroit rear, arb front was the ****...
then got the rear ARB.....and, really wasn't that impressed....sure, you can unlock them both and steer a little sharper, but found myself usually running spool'd in the rear and open in the front....
then....w/ cutting brakes on the rear.....I run almost all the time open in the rear, and just toggle the front in and out....
for where I'm at right now, I think a detroit in the front and an arb in the rear, w/ cutting brakes to the rear, to be the ****.....and 3-wheel drive it everywhere....only locking the rear when it really needs to be...
as I've progressed through the years, styles, equipment, and preferences change....
I used to swear by detroits (or really, any 'automatic' locker that will hold up) in both ends....
then I swapped an ARB in the front, and thought the detroit rear, arb front was the ****...
then got the rear ARB.....and, really wasn't that impressed....sure, you can unlock them both and steer a little sharper, but found myself usually running spool'd in the rear and open in the front....
then....w/ cutting brakes on the rear.....I run almost all the time open in the rear, and just toggle the front in and out....
for where I'm at right now, I think a detroit in the front and an arb in the rear, w/ cutting brakes to the rear, to be the ****.....and 3-wheel drive it everywhere....only locking the rear when it really needs to be...
lilyota
Well-Known Member
Jaydog said:
cough cough bullshit . Not in the winter conditions.
I love my detriots front and rear
2pwrlftrs4u
NWW Meanie
Jaydog said:
not doubting you, i guess it all depends on what you call mild
See that's my problem. I'm probably going to stick with stock or at least something close to it until I go to fullsize axles. So basically I NEED a traction aid ya know? And like I've said before, I haven't run into a lot of problems where I've needed a lot more flex instead of needing power to the other wheel.Jaydog said:
Alpine4x4
Well-Known Member
Explain. Mainly the only problems i see are chirping on corners and a lil more tire wear...not much worse than any other auto locker. They still chirp around corners if the rear axle is getting power and wear out tires just the same...only downfall to a spool is not being able to coast aorund corners and not chirp. Spools also have less parts to break since they are one part:redneck:SeaRubi said:if you're not going to upgrade your axle shafts, truetracks front and rear aren't a bad way to go and will get you quite a ways further down the trail than being open. they're easier on the drivetrain than a detroit.
welded rear or spools is not good for a street driven vehicle
64FJ40
Well-Known Member
Alpine4x4 said:
Not that I totally agree with SeaRubi, but here's my take.
It is harder on components. I have to re-tighten my rear u-bolts a couple times a year because the binding really puts a lot of stress on them. I could definitely see the stress exploding a welded carrier on a smaller axle.
It is a lot more predictable than an autolocker though. I've had both in the rear of a street-driven SWB rig and I prefer the simplicity and perdictability of the lincoln locker. I have also heard the opposite from people running welded rears in heavier rigs as the extra weight over the driven axle produces more understeer rather than just chirping.
