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Whitey

Looks killer:awesomework: Wanna do it to a 1st gen:D Is the rear going to get a linked also?

I have several people who are interested in this as a "kit" If I get enough interest (and this works out well in real world testing) I will manufacture this in to a do-it-yourself "kit" where I provide all the brackets tabs hoops links joints etc you provide springs and shocks and limiter straps etc... But me actualy doing this is a BIG mabey. I used to do it with toy sas parts where I sold individual components but it has been years since I have sold any. I would also be able to 1 off something fore you but you know what they say; iiiiiiit'l cost ya' :;
 
Ok, Here's where I was, With the suspension fully welded and all painted up all purdy like It was final install time. Me and Rustytromboner :fawkdancesmiley: Assembled the frontend in about a hour and a half D-U-N done! Went together great!

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Frame end on pas side.

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So where I had chopped out the front crossmember I replaced it with this new crossmember/ skid/ new body mounts. Also doubles as a winch mount.

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So the front suspensions done, that was phase one. I think i mentioned that the head gasket went when I pulled this hog in to the shop. So out came the engine. I already had the trans out so it was just as easy to just pull the whole engine out as to try to do the head with it in the truck. The guy I bought this truck from said he had put a shortblock in it. so I looked at all the rounded bolts, mangled freeze plugs, oil leaks etc, and sent the whole engine off to the machine shop :rolleyes: I hate leaky engines. This has turned in to the absolute hands down WORST! 22re I have ever tryed to save, NOTHING! is good. Block is now .040 over crank is 10/10 all new valves, guides, seats etc... I noticed one of the rocker arms was all chewed up, so I looked at the cam and it's damn near FLAT!!!!! I'm really iritated the guy I bought this truck from mooved because he needs to have all his wrenches taken away and I would gladly have done it. Then slapped his hand and said "NO!, BAD!" But hey it should run great after I'm done :rolleyes:

Anyone have a 20/22r rocker arm asembly?:D
 
are you gonna put some steering stops on that axle?

I think he has 30 spline longs in that front end :awesomework:

This means there is no need of for steering stops. You can not over steer Bobby's 30 spline axles. He built them to to with stand 40 degrees and a toyota axle can't turn past 38 degrees even with out bump stops.

Should be good to go:beer:

PS.... I can't beleave that is the same rig you let me drive to go pick up sammitchs with.......bet you wouldn't let me drive it now.......it might take me alittle longer now since Reiter was so close to you house...LOL!......that rig is sexy bud! :awesomework:
 
So the front suspensions done, that was phase one. I think i mentioned that the head gasket went when I pulled this hog in to the shop. So out came the engine. I already had the trans out so it was just as easy to just pull the whole engine out as to try to do the head with it in the truck. The guy I bought this truck from said he had put a shortblock in it. so I looked at all the rounded bolts, mangled freeze plugs, oil leaks etc, and sent the whole engine off to the machine shop :rolleyes: I hate leaky engines. This has turned in to the absolute hands down WORST! 22re I have ever tryed to save, NOTHING! is good. Block is now .040 over crank is 10/10 all new valves, guides, seats etc... I noticed one of the rocker arms was all chewed up, so I looked at the cam and it's damn near FLAT!!!!! I'm really iritated the guy I bought this truck from mooved because he needs to have all his wrenches taken away and I would gladly have done it. Then slapped his hand and said "NO!, BAD!" But hey it should run great after I'm done :rolleyes:

Anyone have a 20/22r rocker arm asembly?:D

head work allready done? want'r to breath?
 
head work allready done? want'r to breath?

No, heads not done, why you got some big valves for me? :D I need a cam too... My LCE engine had a 450/450 lift 280 dur cam and 1.5mm larger valves and it RIPPED!! it was also 10.5:1 comp tho... :D:awesomework: I like parts :;
 
I think he has 30 spline longs in that front end :awesomework:

This means there is no need of for steering stops. You can not over steer Bobby's 30 spline axles. He built them to to with stand 40 degrees and a toyota axle can't turn past 38 degrees even with out bump stops.

Should be good to go:beer:

PS.... I can't beleave that is the same rig you let me drive to go pick up sammitchs with.......bet you wouldn't let me drive it now.......it might take me alittle longer now since Reiter was so close to you house...LOL!......that rig is sexy bud! :awesomework:

It has steering stops, there made out of 1" fb, solid, baby! But as it is it maxes out the knuckles at the same basic time it hits the steer stops.

Remember when you drove this truck and you said it needed the flywheel surfaced? Oh boy you dont know the half of it :looser: the whoopass "stage 2" pos cheapo clutch that dude put in here that he was so proud of, the material in the disc was so hard that it ate a 3/32" groove in to the flywheel AND presure plate!!! :eek: Dont buy the racecar clutch from your local schucks for $89.95 kids! it's not actualy a "upgrade"
 
No, heads not done, why you got some big valves for me? :D I need a cam too... My LCE engine had a 450/450 lift 280 dur cam and 1.5mm larger valves and it RIPPED!! it was also 10.5:1 comp tho... :D:awesomework: I like parts :;

no, but ill port it for ya.....
delta cam has special nw wheeler pricing...
 
Phase 2 done!

Been a while since updates but she's getting close now!!! As I said, I had the entire engine re machined, the head needed some welding so here's my prefered meathod of pre-heat

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After the head was all welded up, not due to cracks or anything just a wee bit of electrolosis that could have been a potential problem, my machinist re surfaced the head, new valve seats, valve guides, valves, height on valves checked and ajusted to stock specs, woo hoo! I got a complete engine again, sorta...

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So my major holdup in completing this engine (excluding the hollidays) was finding a good rocker arm assembly. The one in the truck was toast. Bad pad on the end of 2 rockers and closer examination revealed the rails were bad as well. I found another and after hot tanking it revealed that it was worse than my first. Then I got another that was also bad. It seems that if there is any kind of blockage in the rails the rockers dont get oiled and you end up literaly burning the rocker and the rails, like this.

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You could see where the aluminum rocker was actualy starting to weld itself to the steel shaft. The heat coloring is also a dead giveaway. 6 of 8 rockers were perfect on this one. I finaly found a mint one off a 20r so was able to put the engine all back together. everything was cleaned in a hot tank washer, the injectors were all bench flowed and cleaned by doctor injector, she should be a smoooooth runner.

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So on sat, I put in the engine with new stock replacement clutch and resurfaced flywheel, bolted up the newer trans with the 4.7:1 t case and all associated pieces and got er lit! :cheer:

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It has steering stops, there made out of 1" fb, solid, baby! But as it is it maxes out the knuckles at the same basic time it hits the steer stops.

Remember when you drove this truck and you said it needed the flywheel surfaced? Oh boy you dont know the half of it :looser: the whoopass "stage 2" pos cheapo clutch that dude put in here that he was so proud of, the material in the disc was so hard that it ate a 3/32" groove in to the flywheel AND presure plate!!! :eek: Dont buy the racecar clutch from your local schucks for $89.95 kids! it's not actualy a "upgrade"

I knew something was not right.....LOL!! WOW you got yourself a money pit dont ya.......but it sure is a nice rig now! NICE WORK MY FRIEND!:beer:



nice work mister fister!:haha::haha:

It's.......Mister Bister the sister fister........:awesomework:
 
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I put the lower links on first just to have something atatched to the axle and theye were the easiest to figure out, prety strait forward. I had cut the link tube long and welded the bushing ends on earlier so once I had a actual leingth I could put them the rest of the way together.

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With the lower links on I went after the panhard bar. I knew this was going to be my bigest clearnce isue and the location of the 3rd link depends on where it goes. I wasnt able to get it perfectly paralell with the drag link but it's close enough.

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I had to put a 15deg bend in the end of it to clear the top of the dif but I had expected this.

I said it was tight. In order for the coil to not hit the frame end of the panhard I had to place the mount so it is realy close to the tie rod. This is at compresion to where the tie rod is paralell with the bolt head with the steering maxed. Yikes, but it clears.

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Here again you can see how crowded it is under there, and where the panhard bends around the top of the dif.

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Great Build Man. You have done an excellent job. The only part of this build that I keep going back to is the fact that you did not, from what I can tell at least... plate the frame before welding the panhard mount to the frame itself. Similar to the shock hoops mounting plate but on a larger scale of course. You might be fine and it could last forever but I have seen similar setups take one good hit from all the weight of the vehicle landing on one side and the frame itself tear. You parts are excellent. It is the frame itself I would worry about.

Nice work.:awesomework:
 
Engine in trans in, front suspension done, time for a test drive. I drove it on about a 4 mile loop of just street and the front rides great! no dreaded 35mph wobble, 60 mph let go of the wheel and just tracks along perfectly straight down the road. Also no bumpsteer :awesomework: The only issue I had is that it's too low. I wish it could be lower but due to clearnce issues it was set up with about 2" of uptravel. Any more than that and I have tie rods in the oil pan. This imidiatly proved to not be enough uptravel. It hit the bumpstops ALLOT the solution was to go and get some 1" coil spacers for a TJ. It's amazing what a inch will do because after adding the spacers it only hits the bumpstops on big bumps. I can live with that. So with the front suspension and drivetrain done that only leaves bobtailing it, the rear suspension, bumpers and sliders. :D
 
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