who runs 1350s

BUILTnotBOT · Mar 25, 2012

building a new driveline setup and cant afford the blinged out 1410s so leaning towards 1350s. Anybody break these often?

Reading up it looks like 1350s share the same cap size as the 1410 but the body length and size is the difference.

I plan on clearancing the standard yokes, no cv, for costs reason (just using what i have laying around) so i can already see this will be a trial and error thing like always.

Any help and advice is much appreciated.

Not Jobless · Mar 25, 2012

I've been running 1310's front & rear for 10+ years behind a V8, 157:1 crawl ratio & 39" stickies, never broke one yet.

You should be fine with 1350's.

Edit: I broke one in the Outlet mall but that was due to a stump jammed up into the driveline...driver error :looser:

BUILTnotBOT · Mar 25, 2012

right on. good to know :beer:

Avanteone · Mar 25, 2012

I've been running 1350 CV on my rear and 1350 non-cv front for 4 years on my rig. 37's, V8 for the last 2 years, etc. and well abused. I've only killed one driveline, a rear, and it was completely self inflicted. Was sitting on the driveline on a rock, and throttled into it anyway.

Gibby1 · Mar 25, 2012

I went to the 1410s after breaking 2 of the 1350s. These broke primarily because of extreme axle wrap exceeding the angle limitations of the 1350 vs 1410. I haven't broken a 1410 yet but admittedly, I don't wheel as often right now, either.

johny5 · Mar 25, 2012

broke a lot of stuff on my buggy but never broke a 1350 u joint

leadfoot067 · Mar 25, 2012

have had the same 1350 rear d-line in my rig since 2002,full size k5 4 speed,doubler built motor,started on 36s and now on 42s...i have wore out a few joints but never broke one..have gone to 1410s up front,but i was breaking the 1310s...1410s have more angle...

PORTER · Mar 25, 2012

I have run 1350s for years with no probs, you will be fine.

Corey Y · Mar 26, 2012

2.5 ton military trucks have 1410 front drivelines if you are looking to do it cheap. I run junkyard 1350 drivelines. Find a 2wd 3/4 or 1 ton Chev pickup or delivery van. They have 2 piece drivelines that can be made into a one piece, and they are usually pretty cheap too.

TreeClimber · Mar 26, 2012

1350s on the TJ, 1310s on the YJ.
Have had a couple failures on the YJ rear, at the diff. Once, bounced the shaft on a boulder, and snapped it. Once, had a ujoint fail on the freeway, sending the shaft across 5 lanes of traffic. Coasted to the side, ran across the freeway, retrieved the shaft. Continued on my way in Front Drive.
Never broke on on the TJ.
Never considered a 1410 or a BAMF joint. Maybe if I was running 44s or 49s.

BUILTnotBOT · Mar 26, 2012

you guys are awesome! loving these responses :beer: :beer:

if theres anything my rig has always managed to eat its 1310 ujoint setups both cv and standards. Ive always built my own shafts and attribute alot of it to the trial and error but im sure the rock binding and a heavy right foot doesnt help either. Its good to hear the success of 1350s and looking forward to running em'

zukkev · Mar 26, 2012

I've had good luck with 1310's in my rig, but it is light! :haha: ....other parts, however...:redneck:

zuk88 · Mar 27, 2012

I got 1310's too and very light :cheer:I wanted to go 1350's but I couldn't because the CV wouldn't fit on my TC flange,Oh well still strong as hell!

Digger 5 · Mar 27, 2012

The only issue I've had with 1350s have been with the strap style yoke. When I first got the rear end I ordered the wrong yoke and had straps. They tweaked very quickly and needed replacing after a good, hard run. I've since replaced it with a u-bolt style and haven't had an issue.