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will it work?

skipnrocks

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Oct 1, 2011
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1,355
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Billings Montana
Im building the kids a budget buggy. I have a dana 60 front with 8 lug and a full width ford 9 rear. My idea is to convert the ford 9 to a full float by welding a flange on the axle tube to holed a dana 60 spindle then put that hub on and run it with drive flanges. I can get a 2wd spindle and hub and rotor for 100 from a 1998 gm 1 ton, but I cant find out if the hub is splines to allow the install of a drive flange.

My question is will it work? is there a difference between the two hubs or does one just have the dust cap covering where the lockouts would be?
 
the hub wouldn't be splined anyways, the flange that bolts on the hub would be splined. so it wouldn't really matter what 8 lug hub you use as long as you can get a flange for it.
 
Some of these and use all front spindles out.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FLANGE60&Store_Code=ruffstuff
e2bdf280a3897adfe937f6694856ce57.jpg
 
Forbanger said:
Are you needing full float, or just same lug pattern. If pattern, just get the wheel spacers to convert.

I think I should probably do a full float. Its in a light weight kids buggy 2500 ish lbs. But it does have 40in stickies? If I did a 35 spline with alloy or 300m shafts would it hold up with just spacers? The motor has 205hp and 225 ftlb.
 
Rockwells607 said:
the hub wouldn't be splined anyways, the flange that bolts on the hub would be splined. so it wouldn't really matter what 8 lug hub you use as long as you can get a flange for it.
the inside of the 4 wd version has splines for the drive flange to engage. But i wasnt sure if the 2wd version was the same, or if they saved by not cutting them into each hub and had them smooth.
 
A 2wd 1998 GM 1 ton will have a solid spindle fixed onto the IFS knuckle, and the wheel hub/brake rotor is all one piece with tiny wheel bearings inside.


Not usable at all for what you are wanting to do.

BR55032_1__ra_p.jpg
 
Thats kinda what I was thinking too. I cant seem to find it but I wonder if a 35 spline sf setup with 300m shafts would hold up? I know in my tj I bent a few flanges with 37s and 31 spline but I hear the 300m has a more impressive rebound capabilities. I cant seem to find a 300 m shaft for it though
 
May be a stupid question, but why are you set on a 9"

They sure aren't cheap to build up as strong as a stock 1 ton, and they ain't much worth a damn stock.
 
Thats a good question. I am building a light weight kids buggy with an engine behind the drivers seat. Most guys run toyota axles in these but I got a sweet deal on 40 in stickies. So I wanted something a little beefier. Then I read they were having some lifting issues due to the light front so I figure run a heavy dana 60 up front. Build a ford 9 much lighter for the back and balance things out a little weight wise. The 9 wont be much to build. If I do full float kit, it will be 180 for the mount, 150 for spindles and hubs then 35 spline shafts and a spool I wont have much at all into it. I got the axle for 250.
 
You have 3 options for a full float 9" rear. All will require a 35 spline at the diff. Spools are available for a stock third in 35 but are thin at the spline. Best to go 3.25" bearing nodular third and a standard 35 spline spool.
Option 1 ruff stuff weld on adapters, front Dana 50 TTB or front 60 spindles.
Option 2 weld on spindles.
Both option 1 and 2 will need hubs. Use rear Dana 60,70.80 rear hubs plus full float flanged shafts. OR Front 60 hubs plus double splined shafts and drive flanges.
Option 3 weld on unit bearing adapters plus unit bearings, double splined shafts and drive flanges.

I'm not a fan of the weld on spindle due to the possibility of wrecking the spindle with a broken shaft and not easily replaceable like a bolt on spindle or unit bearing.

I think with most people settling into the 40" and under tire size, they start to question the weight of a 14 bolt or bigger. The 9" design can handle the stress with upgrades available as needed. Has ALL the gear ratios. Fabricated housings and the ability to build any offset or width within reason.

I went 9" front and rear on my buggy and don't regret it.
 
These aren't exactly budget minded but I think they would suit your needs.
https://www.weaverfabrication.com/product/2005-unit-bearing-cups/
37da1e79881d11dc5df19960ceedd754.jpg
 
Man just run wheel adapters, I have this exact setup on my ZJ buggy and just now broke a stock shaft. And I'm on 39" reds. If youre beating it so hard that you need full float then you probably need something stronger than a 9" centersection. Also a truck 9" is about 65" wide and a 60 is about 69" wide so a set of 2" wheel adapters will make the front and rear widths about the same.
 
SBJeepn said:
I had not seen this kit, but they do have a weld in spindle kit for the same cost, its for a 14 bolt. for the same cost which would be preferred?
This will let you run the same front spindle and hub on the rear.
The weld spindle will require you to find 14b hub.
 
You running a transaxle or tranny and t-case? You basically described my buggy. I'm running 40" sticky Mtrs about 1/3 to 1/2 full of water in front w flipped toyotas.
 
mckeddie said:
You running a transaxle or tranny and t-case? You basically described my buggy. I'm running 40" sticky Mtrs about 1/3 to 1/2 full of water in front w flipped toyotas.

Yep doing a trans axle build. Will a trans axle hold up with 355 or 410 axle hears so they can still have a top speed of 45 ish? Or would it be better to have some 5:13?
 
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