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Winch trouble shooting

Gibby1

Did I BREAK that.......
Joined
Mar 27, 2006
Messages
3,014
I've got a Warn M12000 that was acting up. The solenoids would click loud in both directions and every once in a while the motor would engage. I took it in to have it looked at. I was told that the brushes were rusted up again even though they were new. So, an hour's labor and the motor was cleaned, lubed, reassembled and tested. I took it home and tested it on the bench by hooking up jumpers. It worked fine.

I put it in the rig hooked it up and I get the clicking again - grrrrr. So thinking that maybe the batteries aren't topped up. I start the engine and it started without a hesitation and then all of a sudden the winch started working again.

So I'm thinking, it was just a low battery state that wouldn't turn the winch motor but with the engine running, it made enough power to kick it over. I spool the cable out to re-wrap it and about 1/2 way in, (after stopping it to adjust the wrap) it starts clicking again and I cannot get it to engage the motor. This is with the engine still running.

So, I'm thinking a bad connection at that point. I had cleaned with a grinder all the cable ends and the ground contact on the bumper (which is welded to the frame). I had one connection left and that was to positive cable connection which goes to a common power post. So I pull out the battery selector switch and get to the common power post to remove the cable. It looks pretty good, but I decide to hook it up direct to the battery. Still nothing, so I throw the charger on it and it is a little weak. I let it charge to 100% and still nothing by clicks.

So I yard this puppy out AGAIN, remove the solenoid pack and hook up jumper cables to the ground and then touch the positive end to each of the positive connectors on the motor. This should bypass the solenoids and spin the motor in one direction or the other. Not a thing happens!

So, I disassemble the motor and it looks pretty good. I cleaned the stator off a little more with some 110 grit emery cloth, reassembled the motor and still NOTHING.

So I'm wondering if I am testing this wrong? There is a ground connector to connect the case to ground and then a big ground up top and two positive connectors. Am I missing something if I hook up the ground to one of the two ground posts and then touch the positive to one of the positive posts? Do I need to jumper the two grounds together? I can't believe from looking at this that there is something wrong with the motor itself.

Second, under the end cap of the motor, there is a paper insulator of some sort. I noticed that the 4 tabs that go down the side were not staying flush on the sides. These seems to be protecting the brushes for the wires from touching the case but it seems really flimsy for such a purpose. Are these little paper tabs required to keep the bare brush wire for contacting the case?
 
I dunno all your answers, but on my M12000, I had similar problems. Took it to Warn's repair shop in Portland and there was nothing wrong. Went home, and ran a OO ground strap from winch to the battery and everything worked good. Two years later, it still works good.
 
So I'm wondering if I am testing this wrong? There is a ground connector to connect the case to ground and then a big ground up top and two positive connectors. Am I missing something if I hook up the ground to one of the two ground posts and then touch the positive to one of the positive posts? Do I need to jumper the two grounds together? I can't believe from looking at this that there is something wrong with the motor itself.

There are 4 connectors on the motor. THREE on Top are all HOT. The ground was on the bottom. The top ones are to reverse the polarity of the motor, to power in and power out. DON"T jumper anything together.
 
Yep, ground to the battery is what I'd say...

Did the same crap with my 8274... Cleaned everything, went through the solenoids, still had weird issues... I had a ground to the battery, but there was an issue with it... Fixed the ground to the battery and works fine...
 
hey i didnt reed your hole post but take the electric motor out check the brushes and motor i just fixed mine took about 2 weeks trying selinoids and grounds etc just start from battery use test light the work your way too winch troubleshoot all connection ,I ended up getting my motor rebuilt after a few week sound starter rebuild the ****.

There been many winches that ive own and the motors take a crap especially if stored out side one minute it works next trip toast.Atleast get that done and work ur way to batteries $120 I pd pluged it in bam fixed:mad:

Follow the power when actuated see were it ends at If u use a jumper and it still dont work its probably the motor...


Motor huh ,glad to see ya fixed it ,see ya this weekend hopefully
 
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There are 4 connectors on the motor. THREE on Top are all HOT. The ground was on the bottom. The top ones are to reverse the polarity of the motor, to power in and power out. DON"T jumper anything together.

So, I have it on the bench. I connect the bottom one to ground.

How or in what order to I connect power to the top connectors to bench test the motor. I want to completely bypass the solenoids to rule them out. Since I've already pulled the motor apart and see nothing amiss that's obvious. I have pulled the solenoid pack off completely.
 
So, I'm thinking a bad connection at that point. I had cleaned with a grinder all the cable ends and the ground contact on the bumper (which is welded to the frame). I had one connection left and that was to positive cable connection which goes to a common power post. So I pull out the battery selector switch and get to the common power post to remove the cable. It looks pretty good, but I decide to hook it up direct to the battery. Still nothing, so I throw the charger on it and it is a little weak. I let it charge to 100% and still nothing by clicks.
Gibby,
Re-install it. Run a ground strap from the Winch to the BATTERY. WARN specifically warns against using the frame as a ground source. They absolutely require using a direct battery ground. I really think that's your problem. It's what was wrong with mine, and when I changed, everything got fixed.
Tony
PS.... I'll see if I can find a link for the wiring schematics, and post up an edit later.

edit 1 http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=14137
edit 2 http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=75702
 
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The three wires on top are for the positive motor.

Connect the stud towards the front of the motor with a OO guage (Jumper )wire to one of the two rear studs. Connect the other rear stud direct to Postive battery. This will test the motor in one direction

Reverse the Jumper wire to the OTHER rear stud. Re-connect the remaining rear stud to the Positive battery. This will test the motor in the other direction.

Use the ground on the bottom to turn the motor on and off, as you connect it.

WARNING. Fawking it up will short out the very expensive motor and leave you very mad. Don't blame me. I'm just following the schematics as posted in the links.
 
The three wires on top are for the positive motor.

Connect the stud towards the front of the motor with a OO guage (Jumper )wire to one of the two rear studs. Connect the other rear stud direct to Postive battery. This will test the motor in one direction

Reverse the Jumper wire to the OTHER rear stud. Re-connect the remaining rear stud to the Positive battery. This will test the motor in the other direction.

Use the ground on the bottom to turn the motor on and off, as you connect it.

WARNING. Fawking it up will short out the very expensive motor and leave you very mad. Don't blame me. I'm just following the schematics as posted in the links.

Well, nothing happened when I tried that so I hooked everything back up on the bench. Ran wires directly to a battery and tried the remote control. Still nothing but clicks in either direction. Last step before it goes back to the shop I guess is so see if I'm getting power to the postive motor posts. I have a feeling that I am and the motor is toast.

I wonder if the 15k motor will fit this housing? Or maybe something that has faster line speed...
 
Well, this is weird. Whether I set the remote to in or out, I get power to all three positive posts at the same time... That does not see right.
 
Well, this is weird. Whether I set the remote to in or out, I get power to all three positive posts at the same time... That does not see right.

Yeah it does. All three of those are HOT, it's just that the current flows in a different direction internally in the motor. The ground is on the bottom.

Have you ran a battery ground to the bottom stud on the winch yet?
 
Well, this is weird. Whether I set the remote to in or out, I get power to all three positive posts at the same time... That does not see right.
that is right. power runs through the field windings and then to the armiture. the direction of the motor is determined by the direction the volt flows through the field windings.
 
Bench testing a winch motor is difficult, because you need a LOT of current flow for the motor to work. That means you need BIG wires to check, with good connections. I doubt some wimpy 8guage jumper wires will do little other than 'click'. And you need three wires to complete the circuit.
 
Bench testing a winch motor is difficult, because you need a LOT of current flow for the motor to work. That means you need BIG wires to check, with good connections. I doubt some wimpy 8guage jumper wires will do little other than 'click'. And you need three wires to complete the circuit.

I have some 00 cables hooked up.

I only need 2 when I'm hooked up through the solenoids. I have a feeling that the motor is fried but I don't know how it would be if nothing looks burned or broken.

I get very solid solenoid clicks in both directions with power going out both times, so I'm pretty sure the problem is in the motor itself.
 
Hi All:

Gibby, from my limited experience trouble-shooting electric winches I'd echo the comments about a good ground.

I'd also say to ensure that your controller (remote, etc.) is working correctly. I had trouble with a ten-year old electric winch and after going through a lot of different items the problem seemed to disappear after switching to a new hand controller.

Good luck! :D

Alan
 
the ground is on the bottom of the motor. the three post on top are positive. two of the post are marked or they use to be marked f1 and f2. the third is marked a for the armiture.

f1 and f2 are connected together in the motor.the circuit starts at f1 or f2 depending on which way you want your motor to spin.there is copper wire that wraps around a couple of magnets that are attached to the inside of the motor housing.

the third pole/stud is for the armuture. it feeds two of the brushes with positive 12 volt and the other two are negative 12 volt which attach to the motor housing.

the two positive brushes do need to be isulated from the negative brushes except where they touch the armiture
 
the ground is on the bottom of the motor. the three post on top are positive. two of the post are marked or they use to be marked f1 and f2. the third is marked a for the armiture.

f1 and f2 are connected together in the motor.the circuit starts at f1 or f2 depending on which way you want your motor to spin.there is copper wire that wraps around a couple of magnets that are attached to the inside of the motor housing.

the third pole/stud is for the armuture. it feeds two of the brushes with positive 12 volt and the other two are negative 12 volt which attach to the motor housing.

the two positive brushes do need to be isulated from the negative brushes except where they touch the armiture

I have a sneaky feeling that it was the positive brushes grounding on the housing. I took it back to the rebuilder today and they got it going. They guy I spoke with on the phone didn't know what he fixed and the guy who'd fixed it was gone for the day.

The good thing is that I don't have to spend any extra money!
 
So it turns out that the brushes had unseated and weren't touching the armature.

All fixed and ready to go.
 
your link implies it's not the correct motor for you application. It's lists only the smaller winches as direct replacement, not the 12K or 15K winches
 
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