Wiring (attn: Crash)

[Nuzzy]

Getting ready to do some wiring and was looking through one of crash's latest builds because I like the clean setup.

Here's what I'm trying to accomplish:

-Wire in new 1 wire alternator
-Wire in taurus fan
-Rewire winch
-Add post block (junction?) for all pos+ wires

I'd like to figure out the best way (and in the best order) to connect the battery, alternator, starter, winch, and post block. My battery is in between the two seats and currently has the pos+ cable running up into some sort of + block terminal thing (stock) with all other + wires connected that needs replaced.

I'm assuming I can simply connect my batt cable to a post(junction?) like this and then run all other pos wires to it as well, thus negating the need to run any other wires all the way back to the actual batt?

Now I think I've figured each of these wires, but correct me if I'm wrong on any of them (I've numbered them for ease). The only one I'm not sure of is #4. Does it go directly to the starter or alternator?

I can see the alt connecting to the starter w/ a smaller gauge wire, but again which does that #4 wire from above pic attach to?

For the wiring, how about this? (Not showing the winch wire but figure that'll also go to the post.)

The blue wires are the ones I'm really unsure about how best to route. I like the idea of everything going through the one post. But will I run into certain problems with everything having access to the full batt power? In other words, does that stock unit (mounted on fender) that has numerous + wires going to it actually function to reduce power to any of it's outputs?



:beer:

 

[Binder]

One thing to remember when doing this stuff Nuzzy is that the battery is not the main power source. The battery is only there to start the engine or aid power when the alt can't keep up (winching). Your alt is the main power source. Your objective is to keep all of the circuits (wires) as short as possible to avoid voltage drops. Layout and size of the wires will depend on where each component is physically mounted. The spot you connect your one wire alt will be where it gets it's voltage reference from. This is one of the reasons one wire alts suck. You will need to run the alt wire to that distribution lug and it may be far from the alt. Probably not ideal but it's a one wire and you have to try and make it work.uke:

 

[Nuzzy]

One thing to remember when doing this stuff Nuzzy is that the battery is not the main power source. The battery is only there to start the engine or aid power when the alt can't keep up (winching). Your alt is the main power source. Your objective is to keep all of the circuits (wires) as short as possible to avoid voltage drops. Layout and size of the wires will depend on where each component is physically mounted. The spot you connect your one wire alt will be where it gets it's voltage reference from. This is one of the reasons one wire alts suck. You will need to run the alt wire to that distribution lug and it may be far from the alt. Probably not ideal but it's a one wire and you have to try and make it work.uke:

Good point, I'll remember that.

The spot where I'll be mounting that distribution lug will be about 12 inches from the Alt. The starter is also pretty close. The longest wire will be the one to the battery (which I believe is currently 2/0awg).

So with the starter, is it also fine just wiring into the lug?

 

[Binder]

Your way would probably be fine but I would do it something like this. Just make sure the cables are the correct size.......
Lets hear some input from others....

 

[Nuzzy]

Remember though, my battery is all the way near the back of the jeep. Would you still say run the pos+ winch cable all the way back (lets say 7-8ft) bypassing the lug vs. straight to the lug (2.5ft)?




Now Crash has said in his thread that he liked only having the one single wire to the batt. What would the pros/cons be of such a setup?

 

[Binder]

Remember though, my battery is all the way near the back of the jeep. Would you still say run the pos+ winch cable all the way back (lets say 7-8ft) bypassing the lug vs. straight to the lug (2.5ft)?
Now Crash has said in his thread that he liked only having the one single wire to the batt. What would the pros/cons be of such a setup?

The reason for running the cable straight to the battery is because the alternator doesn't have enough output to run the winch and can't run a starter if the engine isn't running. The power for these has to come from the battery and this just eliminates the connection in the middle of the circuit. Like I said, your way should work fine I just don't like the idea of tons of cables connecting to one lug. If that connection got bad your junk isn't running and possibly fire. Having said that I have tons of cables connected to the post on my starter.............If you do run these three cables to the lug the one from the battery to the lug needs to be beef.

 

[Nuzzy]

Well, I'm about to hop on a plane and will be out of comission for the evening, but I'm looking forward to seeing the discussion on this. I'll be getting a bunch electrical crap tomorrow morning and plan to start cranking away in the afternoon.


:corn:

Thanks :beer:

 

[Eric]

Nuzzy the other thing to think about with running a cable that far is chafe on the cable. Make sure to use the correct size wire and look at high amp fuses for the battery take off. A fuse is easy to carry and replace in a short, a blown battery or fried electrical system is hard to fix on the trail.

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

To avoid a amperage drop run at least a double 00 cable from the battery to the winch and as I've told you before over grould the fawk out of everything especially the battery and winch.


Sidenote: I always like how clean Crash's wiring is but WTF is up with that single stud with 9 wires coming off of it??? Couldn't part of that gone to the battery? Everything about that build was cool but I never noticed that part..

 

[Binder]

Sidenote: I always like how clean Crash's wiring is but WTF is up with that single stud with 9 wires coming off of it??? Couldn't part of that gone to the battery? Everything about that build was cool but I never noticed that part..

What buildup is it you guys keep talking about?

 

[bigiron]

think it is here http://nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28517

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

THIS 2rz swap.

 

[Pat]

Just about the Taurus Fan part- you will need an 80 Amp solenoid (like for a winch) to run that. It draws about 70 Amps and most fan controllers/relays are 30 or 40 amps. I haven't finished hooking mine up yet but I used a relay and the solenoid, and switched the ground for emergency shutoff. There are a couple old threads about these Taurus Fan wiring issues.

 

[crash2]

To avoid a amperage drop run at least a double 00 cable from the battery to the winch and as I've told you before over grould the fawk out of everything especially the battery and winch.


Sidenote: I always like how clean Crash's wiring is but WTF is up with that single stud with 9 wires coming off of it??? Couldn't part of that gone to the battery? Everything about that build was cool but I never noticed that part..

I never use a battery as the junction for a few reasons

As soon as I get more than 5 minutes I will toss in my .02

 

[Nuzzy]

Just about the Taurus Fan part- you will need an 80 Amp solenoid (like for a winch) to run that. It draws about 70 Amps and most fan controllers/relays are 30 or 40 amps. I haven't finished hooking mine up yet but I used a relay and the solenoid, and switched the ground for emergency shutoff. There are a couple old threads about these Taurus Fan wiring issues.

Got the 80(or maybe 85) Amp continuous duty solenoid from NAPA and something that'll work for a fuseable link. Picked up a thermal switch from Summit to brain the whole thing.

I never use a battery as the junction for a few reasons

As soon as I get more than 5 minutes I will toss in my .02

Look forward to reading your thoughts

 

[Nuzzy]

To avoid a amperage drop run at least a double 00 cable from the battery to the winch and as I've told you before over grould the fawk out of everything especially the battery and winch.

Assuming "double 00" is the same as 2/0, that's what I have from the Batt up to the engine compartment and Batt to ground. Currently for the winch I only have whatever it came with but was thinking of picking up a bunch more 2/0 anyways to wire the other items. Suppose I could do the same for the winch...

 

[Binder]

Assuming "double 00" is the same as 2/0, that's what I have from the Batt up to the engine compartment and Batt to ground. Currently for the winch I only have whatever it came with but was thinking of picking up a bunch more 2/0 anyways to wire the other items. Suppose I could do the same for the winch...

00 is much larger. 2/0 < 1/0 < 0 < 00

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

I never use a battery as the junction for a few reasons

As soon as I get more than 5 minutes I will toss in my .02

I understand about the positive lead overheating and melting out of the battery under overuse but I still connect light amp draw stuff to it. I only have 2 wires coming off the + currently..





Binder is correct of course. double 00 is large welding lead. I don't waste my time with "automotive" cable anymore. The higher the wire content the better conductivity. Electricity passes on the outside of the strands not the inside, so the more strands the higher the current it can withstand.

If you go that route use crimp&solder ends for best connection. Just be sure to fuse everything and put a main switch inline with the main power so in the catastrophic event of a dead short you can kill the power beings your not running fisher price wire that will melt and disconnect itself anymore. :haha: :;

 

[Nuzzy]

Binder is correct of course. double 00 is large welding lead. I don't waste my time with "automotive" cable anymore. The higher the wire content the better conductivity. Electricity passes on the outside of the strands not the inside, so the more strands the higher the current it can withstand.

If you go that route use crimp&solder ends for best connection. Just be sure to fuse everything and put a main switch inline with the main power so in the catastrophic event of a dead short you can kill the power beings your not running fisher price wire that will melt and disconnect itself anymore. :haha: :;

Interesting. The 2/0 stuff I had (came from a car audio place) seemed thicker than most battery cables I'd seen. Will have to check out this burl wire you speak of :redneck:

Yes, I was going to solder everything. Now for this main fuse/switch, what sort of capacity would be sufficient? (i.e. 100amp, 1000amp, 10000amp)

 

[Jeepasaurusrex]

X1000 on using fine strand welding leads.