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Yokes for Atlas and axles

wayne86

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2013
Messages
208
Location
Bluffton, IN
I picked up an Atlas 3.0 on here over the weekend. The yokes are 1410s. I will be running a 5.3, th400, and the atlas with a 14 bolt rear and a Dodge passenger drop, low pinion 60 front. I have 1310 yolks now on the axles and on my Dana300 case. My question is, should I go ahead and swap the 1410s for 1310s or 1350 yokes? I will have to have new driveshafts made anyway with my build so I want to use the right stuff the first time. I'm leaning toward 1350 but thought I'd ask for some input.
 
Also, I believe 1410's allow for quite a bit of angle so you may want to take driveshaft movement into consideration.
 
Moderate to heavy trail riding. I'll put it this way, I came down for the Gray Rock ride with my XJ on half ton axles and 38s and realized if I wanted to keep up I'd have to have something like what I'm building now. I'm sure the 1310 yoke would last a while for most of the local wheeling I do. But, we like to go south and get in the big rocks and I'd like to use my new found power. The 1410 is overkill I think. If I'm thinking right the front axle will be the weakest link in my drivetrain. This is my first "1 ton" rig. The guy I got it from had an evolution chassis with 44" boggers and a nice 6.0. I don't think I'll use it like he intended to. I do want to be able hit things with a moderate amount of speed though if needed. Swap all yokes to 1350 and call it good?
 
Re:

I've seen some 1350s take a beating.....but seen them break too. I've never seen a 1410 break. Only 2.

If it were me .....I'd run the 1410s and cross that off my worry list.

Fwiw....I'm running all 1350s everywhere except on front LP60. That's a 1310.
 
Beerj said:
Also, I believe 1410's allow for quite a bit of angle so you may want to take driveshaft movement into consideration.

That's a good point. I may end up back halfing this rig to get my rear end back further. I have it as far as I can get it in the chassis without hitting the rear crossmember. That leaves my driveshaft fairly short. Probably 10 degree angle at ride height I'd guess without measuring it. I'm afraid where it sits that it will bind up at full droop. Keep in mind, right now I have the Dana 300 in there for this observation. Hopefully next week I can unbolt the 300 and get the atlas in for some more mock up measurements. With the atlas I can tilt the drivetrain back a few degrees without hanging too low below the frame rails. The 300 is sitting damn near flat and i'm about 4.5" below the frame rails at the lowest point of the tcase.

Thanks ahead for the input. Other than 3 linking my XJ and building a RZR cage this is my first full on build. I'm just at a point where you all's experience can save me some headaches.
 
Re:

tonybolton said:
I've seen some 1350s take a beating.....but seen them break too. I've never seen a 1410 break. Only 2.

If it were me .....I'd run the 1410s and cross that off my worry list.

Fwiw....I'm running all 1350s everywhere except on front LP60. That's a 1310.

Maybe a stupid question, but if I keep the 1410s should I change the yokes at the axles too or just run a 1350. I'm pretty positive they are just 1310.
 
I switched my Toyota to a 14bolt and Dodge 60 2 years ago, they had 1410 yokes so I swapped my 205 to 1410s also. They gave me alot more angle then the 1350s I had in the rear. I broke 2 EOR male splines earlier this year but no joints. IMO the bigger the better.
 
canepari said:
I switched my Toyota to a 14bolt and Dodge 60 2 years ago, they had 1410 yokes so I swapped my 205 to 1410s also. They gave me alot more angle then the 1350s I had in the rear. I broke 2 EOR male splines earlier this year but no joints. IMO the bigger the better.

I definitely want dependability. Less breakage on the trail means more time wheeling. If I have to drive 8 hours I want to spend it wheeling, not wrenching. I'll start looking for some yokes. Thanks for your comments.
 
The way I see it is you have mismatched yokes now and need to buy two new yokes to have a matching set. Do you want to buy smaller / weaker 1310 yokes or bigger stronger 1410 yokes.
That's easy. 2 new 1410 yokes for the axles and 1410 driveshaft and now worry about it, especially when having to travel to wheel.
 
I'm not sure they make a 1410 yoke for the d300. I believe the 1350 is what he would have to go with there. One 1350/1410 bastard joint wouldn't be bad. He will eventually upgrade the d300 most likely anyway.
 
pholmann said:
I'm not sure they make a 1410 yoke for the d300. I believe the 1350 is what he would have to go with there. One 1350/1410 bastard joint wouldn't be bad. He will eventually upgrade the d300 most likely anyway.

He has a atlas with 1410 yokes. Why have a d300 with an atlas?
 
RustyC I agree. That makes the most sense. Once i get the drivetrain in place I can see how everything is package but I think I will need a 2 piece shaft and carrier bearing for the front shaft. That's where the 1410s will add up. I will figure that out in a few weeks.

Pholmann, sorry for the confusion. I started off trying to make the 300 work. The more I started mocking stuff up the more I realized I should just bite the bullet and get an atlas. The 300 has 1310s, therefore my driveshafts do too. Out with the old, in with the new though from here on out.
 
wayne86 said:
RustyC I agree. That makes the most sense. Once i get the drivetrain in place I can see how everything is package but I think I will need a 2 piece shaft and carrier bearing for the front shaft. That's where the 1410s will add up. I will figure that out in a few weeks.
My junk has a 4.3, th350, 203-205 doubler and I have plenty of room for 2.25" one piece front shaft. I used a 77 Dodge 60, cheated the front 1/2" to the right and I've got plenty of room.
 
canepari said:
Get some good driveshafts, not the EOR kits. The male spline parts are necked way down and must be junk metal.
Damn..... I just did there 1350 kit. Hope that bitch holds up. I only have weepower 4.0 so hopefully that will work in my favor.
 
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