Question for those with CTM/Yukon joints

Bebop · Nov 5, 2021

Waffle said:
Got any good pics to share? Interested in seeing various ideas on high steer since these don't come with any.
Also interesting in your opinion of the pin/bolt/joint that secures the knuckle to the C. Having lived with kingpins all my life I'm unfamiliar with setups like your S&S knuckles.

The Cs have a bearing pocket for a uniball and the knuckles are bolted through. Just like Spidertrax units.
Super strong and simple design. Very easy to work on.

Only complaint I've ever heard about Spidertrax stuff is the 7/8 uniballs being undersized/wearing out quickly. The S&S stuff uses 1.25" uniballs, so you're good there.

As far as axleshafts, I run RCV big bells and I'm super happy with them.
My biggest gripe against u-joints is the hop you get from them when steered at full lock. I hate that. With CV joints you can stay in the gas when going straight or not and keep a clean torque delivery to the ground. The fact they've been proven to hold up in the rear of 1000+hp competition rock bouncers helps keep my mind completely at ease. I know I can do ungodly things to them and won't have a problem.

TBItoy · Nov 5, 2021

Waffle said:
I've heard this multiple times but I've never seen an explanation of what they do wrong.

They just cut the splines into the max OD of the shaft. Or in some cases the max OD is even larger than the splines...
so the shaft is too stiff compared to the spline and when/if they break, the splines twist or break.

Ideally the shaft is profiled to act like a torsion bar and distribute the twist down the entire length

Bebop · Nov 8, 2021

RCV will cut axleshafts exactly how you tell them to.

nightcrawler4x4 · Nov 8, 2021

Has anyone had any problems out of the OEM 1480 joints since they are not solid? Looking to replace a set of OG Bobby Longs with the 4 grease fittings never had any problems out of them except a few loose caps that I replaced but now I can't get replacement caps anymore. 300m good price and single grease fitting makes me lean towards the OEMs.

TBItoy · Nov 8, 2021

Bebop said:
RCV will cut axleshafts exactly how you tell them to.

that's good to know

Bjeep · Nov 8, 2021

TBItoy said:
that's good to know

It would be even better if the axle manufacture did not have to be told how to correctly make an axle.......

Waffle · Nov 9, 2021

Anyone here with the Magnum knuckle kit and unit bearings? I'm sure WOD will sell a matching RCV big bell stub if I buy their kit, but what if I want to run Ouverson direct drive soda can outers and rockwell Violator joints? Which 05+ stub length do they use? F350, F550, custom?
I emailed them but their response was just a generalization of what the kit is and completely missed what I was asking. And since getting in touch with Ouverson is super hard I'd like to have the info I need ready for when they do answer the phone.
I've spent hours scrolling the net. Lots of pics, but no details.

Bebop · Nov 9, 2021

You should reach out to someone who has their knuckles installed on their rig and runs them. Bubba Bacon comes to mind, I think he was sponsored so he shouldn't mind answering the questions you may have.

Also, why the Magnum knuckles and not Reid Super KP ?

Waffle · Nov 9, 2021

All knuckles options are being considered actually. Reid, S&S, Crane, Spidertrax, Ouverson. With Reid I'm not fond of the iron brake caliper mount location since I'm running Wilwood forged DP6A calipers, and if I run RCV big bells I'm not fond of having to remove the KP knuckle in order to remove the shaft.
Not that I won't deal with it, but the Magnum eliminates those 2 issues and costs nearly the same once you piece together the Reid stuff.

collinmaune · Nov 9, 2021

Waffle said:
All knuckles options are being considered actually. Reid, S&S, Crane, Spidertrax, Ouverson. With Reid I'm not fond of the iron brake caliper mount location since I'm running Wilwood forged DP6A calipers, and if I run RCV big bells I'm not fond of having to remove the KP knuckle in order to remove the shaft.
Not that I won't deal with it, but the Magnum eliminates those 2 issues and costs nearly the same once you piece together the Reid stuff.

I looked at both the reid and crane. I went with the reid racing super kingpins front and rear on my dana 80's just machine out the lip on the knuckle and you can pull the axle right out. I run branik hats and spidertrax rotors, 6 piston brakes front and rear. For the money it was hard to justify the extra cost of cranes they may be 10x better than reid super kingpins. My outers are ouverson 32 spline direct spline. My inner shaft is a little different it is a 47 spline shaft but 2 piece. I prefer ouversons u joints just because I keep a grease gun in tool box and it is very easy to see if you have any issue.

Bebop · Nov 9, 2021

Waffle said:
if I run RCV big bells I'm not fond of having to remove the KP knuckle in order to remove the shaft.

You don't have to. They can be modified very easily to let the bell go through the UB hole. (As @collinmaune said).
Same process on any stock 05+ outer.

Waffle · Nov 9, 2021

Right, but the boot won't fit thru and everything I've read says removing the big bell boot inside the knuckle would be a bitch and it's much more difficult than the more pliable D60 sized bells/boots. Just what I've read though.

collinmaune · Nov 9, 2021

@Waffle what does your rear pro rock 80 run for hubs? I would try to match that. If you are running super 8's in the rear I would run super 8's in the front. So that would point you to the crane or ouverson knuckles c's. This way you could buy 1 spare hub, spindle and be set for any corner of the buggy if you have any issues.

Bebop · Nov 9, 2021

Waffle said:
Right, but the boot won't fit thru and everything I've read says removing the big bell boot inside the knuckle would be a bitch and it's much more difficult than the more pliable D60 sized bells/boots. Just what I've read though.

That's not true in my experience. It's actually the opposite.

Waffle · Nov 9, 2021

collinmaune said:
@Waffle what does your rear pro rock 80 run for hubs? I would try to match that. If you are running super 8's in the rear I would run super 8's in the front. So that would point you to the crane or ouverson knuckles c's. This way you could buy 1 spare hub, spindle and be set for any corner of the buggy if you have any issues.

That was the original plan, somewhat, then Spidertrax axed the 1550 knuckle with UUB. My rear PR80 isn't a steer axle. Built it with 4" × 3/8 tube, Spidertrax 4130 cups and Spidertrax 40 spline ultimate UB. Well, Scott Morris built it lol.

I have a retarded amount of money in my brakes since I opted to run the chromo Spidertrax rotors with 6 piston Wilwoods on all 4 corners. Those have to stay!

Waffle · Nov 10, 2021

Btw, I really appreciate everyone's input on this. This thread and past ones I've searched through has been a big help. Once I've compiled all the info I can get and get prices on a bunch of stuff (it'll be awhile) I'll start a new thread showing all the options I'm looking at with detailed info and cost.

I want less weight and willing to pay extra to a certain point, but my gut says get the S&S knuckles, 05+ UB and Ouverson direct drive outers with 40 spline inners to a spool.

Bebop · Nov 10, 2021

I don't really understand going to 40sp if you have a 47sp capable Dana80 diff ?
I somewhat agree with your gut, just curious about the reasoning behind not going to the biggest/baddest stuff available for your axle.

collinmaune · Nov 10, 2021

Waffle said:
Btw, I really appreciate everyone's input on this. This thread and past ones I've searched through has been a big help. Once I've compiled all the info I can get and get prices on a bunch of stuff (it'll be awhile) I'll start a new thread showing all the options I'm looking at with detailed info and cost.

I want less weight and willing to pay extra to a certain point, but my gut says get the S&S knuckles, 05+ UB and Ouverson direct drive outers with 40 spline inners to a spool.

@Waffle I would sit down and list everything cost on the front end doing 47 spline inners and a spool. I would also list out how much a drop out axle would be with 45 spline inners and the ouverson outers. If you are wanting light weight and easy to check a drop out strange 3.812 10" might be the way to go. It would be more money technically up front but if you factor the cost and time of setting up a dana 80 ring and pinion and how much a prorock housing is I think you would be surprised.

Waffle · Nov 10, 2021

Oh I have, and still working on it. Just trying to weed out what isn't compatible or practical for my needs.
Only real reason 40 spline up front is being considered is because my 300m 40 spline out back has been so reliable. And a 47 spool doubles in cost to $1200. I know RCV big bells will cost the same either way, but I think Ouversons will be a bunch more with 47. IDK. It's an option I'm still considering, just felt it was unnecessary tbh.
Long ago I did all the comparisons with a HP dropout and I preferred the PR80 chunk. Still do.

Waffle · Nov 10, 2021

A HP 10" dropout costs waaaay more than this PR80 will, and that's before you buy an armored fabbed housing to put it in. To me a PR80 is a set it up and forget it sort of thing, and I like that a lot. Plus it's ready to bash against the rocks, has "close" to the same ground clearance as a stock D60 and is a re-cast nodular with a more narrow profile underneath.

PR80 chunk $1800
Spicer 5.13 $286
Master kit $265
40spl spool $505
1410 flange $115

Total = $2971