my bild

i made my own stearing its 1 1/4 piping. i still have the skyjacker lift. it was a 4'' lift kit but when i had it on the front 4'' coils made the tiers tip in at the top. so i bought new skyjacker 6'' coils and made rear shackls about 3'' taller. it road grate after that and the 33x12.5 didnt rub. the 4'' rear springs are still on the truck. im looking for new 6'' or 8'' rear leaf springs right now. then i was going to sell the skyjacker lift. oh ya the shock thing it will have less bind.

so im trying out a buggy leaf sistom on the rear of my tuck. its just mocked up for now and i still need to trim up some of the bracket. the springs should compress about 3" or 4". haves aney one seen aney like and if so do it work will?

seen them but not next to the frame, usually under the frame on yotas. on yotas you have to watch out when you hit the breaks hard cause the springs want to unload.

also on the yota ones theres usually only one leaf so you might be ok. thats the only thing id watch out for.

sawsall solves it all

with the springs like that your going to have really really bad axle wrap. my suggestion is to put a panhard bar of some sort running from the top of the diff to a crossmember. it will help to keep it from rotating without limiting flex.

when you say pannhard bar, are you talking about a track bar going from the top of the rear diff to a cross member up tords the t-case? will the angle of the bar make a diffrents? should it be at the same angle as the drive line or level with the frame? the bracket coming off the rear diff should be as tall as i can make it? thanks for all the info and ideas.:awesomework:

bigB said:

haves aney one seen aney like and if so do it work will?

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:eeek: Is that english?





Interesting things in this build.

bigB said:

when you say pannhard bar, are you talking about a track bar going from the top of the rear diff to a cross member up tords the t-case? will the angle of the bar make a diffrents? should it be at the same angle as the drive line or level with the frame? the bracket coming off the rear diff should be as tall as i can make it? thanks for all the info and ideas.:awesomework:

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it all depends on what style joints you use. sure you can make it level with the frame, then you could get away with using TRE's bout if you make it level with the drive line you should use johhny joints or something of similar style flexibility.

check it out. i hate how pichers dont look as good as the real thing.
ps i rilly do suck at spelling.

Looks good man. It looks like you did something for an anti-wrap bar in the pics, got any close-ups of that?

i do have some close ups. it does help but does not stop all the aexl rap. im going to move it to the center of the rear end and try to mach the angal of the drive line.

Holes in your driveshaft? :eeek:

You need to add a lower link to that anti-wrap bar and attach the other end to the chassis with a shackle and a bushing/heim combo... it's not going to do anything like it is, or if you move it to the center of the axle. Just leave the top where it's at and add another tube from below the axle center line up to near the end of the top tube and add a shackle and a heim and bushing at the frame end so it doesn't bind up when you flex it. It'll solve the axle wrap problem completely.

Totalled said:

Holes in your driveshaft? :eeek:

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It looks like he sleeved drive line and those are plug weld holes that he didnt get to welding yet? Why so many ..... who knows.

i put in that link on my trackbar it works graet. so its dune and ive ben beating the piss out of it. i rolled it the other night, didn't f it up to much.

i'm all so fabing all the stuff for the Jeeyota bild by Toyzuk. check it out:awesomework: later. that is the owner in the back ground.