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Project M_ans J_eep

all mocked up...thank god for plumbobs....(SP.?)

I still need to play around alittle with it...I think the spring rates on the springs are alittle off from one another.

I also need to raise the back end about .5-1 in....and get rid of those gay tires!
 

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Looks Sweet, But just curious, Why Shackle Forward???---Shackle-back would give you a better ride/handling....
 
Looks Sweet, But just curious, Why Shackle Forward???---Shackle-back would give you a better ride/handling....

You know....I considered doing shackles on rear but after mocking it up(roughly), I decided that I liked the way it sat with shackles forward...plus I'm gonna be putting even smaller than stock wrangler shackles up front...my angles are good. Plus I'm using the stock driver purch built into the diff on the hp44 and if I put shackles rear my pinion angle would be WAYYYYY off...as it sits it will be close to "right". The leaf angles are sitting good also as if I had a shackle reversal on it now...so ride/handling should be pretty sweet also. I just hope this **** turns out good altogether...I got in pretty deep with this project...much more extensive than I have ever done at one time.

2wd to 4wd
5sp. to auto
coil to leaf
d44 to d60
nothing to hp44
one t-case to two
spring under to spring over
low steer to high steer
computer controlled auto to full manual shifting(with rocker switches)
changing out all the shift linkages
going from a 89 4liter to a 91 tranny(flexplates differ due to CPS pickups in the 90 and earlier to 91 and newer)

alls I can say is I hope this bitch rolls down the road when I'm done let alone wheel good....haha
 
shackles forward is the only way to go. I did a shackle reversal and it sucked! Tons of pinion movement and it did weird crap when climbing obstacles.
 
Pics of.....3x5x9in angle that I torched holes out of to weld to frame for LCA mounts(reinforcement).

Finished rear D60-welded the perches, finalized my homemade brake lines, put the extended braided splitter with a stud welded to housing, and got her all painted up and put back in...still need to weld rear in near future.

some homemade u bolt plates for the front, and had to scrong up ubolts from some buddies.

Also, got the rear driveshaft shortened about 12 inches and balanced along with swapped the front slip yoke out for a 27 spline from 91 cherokee driveshaft because mine was a 21 spline coming out of the pugoet tranny....new HD Ujoints also and got it installed.
 

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this is the auto shift cable....needed for swap to shift from park reverse nuetral and drive still...the switches are used once you are in drive to control the selenoids.

the burly tranny cooler I got used from the guy I have been getting all these parts from...come of some older ford...but in great shape and nice and big.

Wife running the cable up over the steering column and under the carpet...i'm to big to fit up there! haha...

The last pic is the brake pedal assembly for an auto...that way I can take out the clutch pedal and brake pedal...they are on one assembly together...pretty easy to swap...might need the wife to get up in there to turn the wrench though...
 

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some 24 in long braided brake lines...picked up for 20 bucks...the guy that had them made paid $120 for them...score!

My draglink is done.....DOM is expensive!...1/4 wall 3/4 ID....30 inches($30 bucks)...had to left and right tap the dom to7/8 but, side note: Drill out first with 13/16 drill bit first...will give you 70% threads....drag ling end and tie rod end....totaling $110...borrowed a reamer to ream the pitman arm out to .790 with 7degrees

reusing the stock tie rod for now...same some bucks...same taper.

check out this homemade steering box brace....made with tubing and a connecting rod! made to take some abuse...nice! good idea though...got it for nothing.:redneck:
 

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Good to see Erin getting in some wrenching time on the Jeep. :redneck:

most of the reason was because my fat ass couldn't get under the steering wheel...without taking it off....so she laid across the seat and head by the pedals and cut her hands all up running the cable through a non existent hole...it took about 2 hours...rediculous...but now shes proud as can be and wants me to tell everyone that she did something that I couldn't do...!:masturbanana[1]:

I was rubbin on her boobies the whole time...haha
 
Got the new quick connects installed and cut and flared the hardlines...

Ran the tranny cooler hose...

Attached the tranny cooler from an old fold full size with the cooler fastener kit I bought for $5 bones...

Finished product...super tight fit getting that cooler in behind the grill support!...had to slightly help it through with a prybar...mounted it where I will install an electric fan.
 

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Picked up everything I need to finish the HP44 today....

The Riddler diff cover...THIS THING IS BURL!!! WOOP....WOOP!!!

Got the 1310 pinion yoke, seal, nut, u-bolts and u-joint all for $42(not bad)

And picked up a mini spool inspite of the little green man on my shoulder telling me this will be a bad idea....at least it was only $60. First time I've ever had hubs...so maybe that will help in certain situations. I don't think I can go wrong for the price.

Later, when my bank recovers from all of this, I will put selectable lockers in this beast...but for now this is it.
 

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She's gonna see that and never help again....

Besides, you lie. Who took the picture while this was all happening? :D

She does everything she can to not see jeep stuff...especially forums!

Ya...that pic was at the beginning...I waited till she was up side down under the steering wheel...haha.:beer:
 
as you can see....I removed the clutch/brake pedal assembly which was the last thing that made this a 5sp. WHAT A BITCH! GETTING THE TOP BOLTS AND JUST WIGGLING THIS THIS OUT TOOK ME AT LEAST AN HOUR AND A HALF! I recommend buying what you want from the beginning! ANYWAYS, I'M VERY HAPPY ITS ALL DONE....

This is a pic with the single brake from an auto installed...that wasn't to bad.

As you can see from this pic...even the clutch master was yanked...it has to come out when you pull the rest of the junk.
 

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that entire switch that we were looking at must have all been for cruise....

the brake light switch actually stays on the booster rod/linkage when you pull out the assembly...so to answer your question...it bolted up with the stock switch perfectly. :D
 
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