Fuel cells plastic vs. metal

I figured this would make for a good discussion.

From my experiance.

Plastic cells are lighter than metal

Plastic cells need a strap of some kind to retain it where metal ones can be retrofittied with a mounting tab

Plastic cells can deform on the top near the fill hole--metal won't do that.

Both types typically use AN style of fittings.

I'm using a plastic tank in a tin can. I'm happy with it so far. iadded the flapper valve, foam and those nifty fuel pickups that won't suck air.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/447,,_Speedway-Steel-Can-Fuel-Cells.html?itemNo=FUEL+CELL

I didn't want an aluminum cell, seen them crack, but wasn't into the idea of a plastic pierceable tank either cuz my daughter rides in the backseat and the tank is sitting right there.

Ethan made my fuel cell. Its metal and works good.

Mark m. said:

Ethan made my fuel cell. Its metal and works good.

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Made mine also :;

I've fabricated many over the years both metal and plastic.
Both will crack, tare and otherwise degrade if incorrectly built or mounted.
Besides improper welding technique, lack of or incorrectly located baffles, and or incorrectly mounting or supporting an aluminum tank will contribute to cracking.
Probably the least expensive is to put the plastic tank in a steel can.
I prefer Aluminum tanks and am currently running a custom 40-Gal cross bed tank in my Fullsize.
Before you run foam in you tank be sure to check with the manufacturer of the foam as most specifically recommend against foaming a tank that will have "Pump Gas" in it because the crap that is in “Pump Gas†will eventually destroy the foam and it will plug the system, learned that on the hard way!
Roll over valves are a great idea!
Before you fabricate a tank consider that if that tank is involved in a fire (wreck) you are liable in court for as long as that tank exists. That and replacing a factory tank, even if it is of a better design on your rig, if you are involved in an accident where fuel is spilled if that tank is not DOT certified you could be seriously screwed!

Chris:beer:

plastic cells are cheaper
plastic cells need protection from rocks and such
Metal can crack at the mounting tab weld (when boltted to sheetmetal)
Most people dont know the differance between a fuel cell and a gas tank

All opinions are based on my own personal expieriances and may slightly differ from yours.

Metal is my choice, as it is more easily repaired when it is damaged.

pokey said:

plastic cells are cheaper
plastic cells need protection from rocks and such
Metal can crack at the mounting tab weld (when boltted to sheetmetal)
Most people dont know the differance between a fuel cell and a gas tank

All opinions are based on my own personal expieriances and may slightly differ from yours.

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You mean like this:

Main Entry: fuel cell
Function: noun
: a device that continuously changes the chemical energy of a fuel
(as hydrogen) and an oxidant directly into electrical energy

OR this:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_cell

OR this:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_tank

Does anyone make those thick rubber fuel bladders small enough for our use?

What ever you want to call it gas tank or fuel cell mines been on my rig about four years with no problems.

Does anyone make those thick rubber fuel bladders small enough for our use?
______________________________________________________________
-Shane

Try contacting these people.
Been using them for my race stuff for years:
http://www.fuelsafe.com/

Chris

I have a plastic cell and the f:rb: r got real hot over summer and sagged in the middle. Now gettin the cap back on can be a PITA I will be using an aluminum cell in the 82

been looking at this issue a lot lately and since someone gave me a plastic fuel cell i am just gonna have the sheetmetal guys make me a can to protect it...

When I built my cell I did the bottom plate with 3/16 A-36 steel and 12 guage sides and top. I also welded inside and outside on all the seams I could.
Thing is tough as nails, I've come down hard on it with no issues. Only thing I would do different if I made it today is to put an angle on the back to improve the departure angle.

http://www.broncoholics.com/support/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1792&SearchTerms=cell

Broken Again said:

When I built my cell I did the bottom plate with 3/16 A-36 steel and 12 guage sides and top. I also welded inside and outside on all the seams I could.
Thing is tough as nails, I've come down hard on it with no issues. Only thing I would do different if I made it today is to put an angle on the back to improve the departure angle.

http://www.broncoholics.com/support/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1792&SearchTerms=cell

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Did you seal the inside of the cell? I just removed two steel cells from the tow rig.When Tom built the cells 8 years ago or so he did not seal them and w/in a year he was battleing internal rust issues.Then I bought the truck from Tom and had worse probs w/it as the rust spread,then I sold the truck to Big Mark and I'm sure it sucked for him too.I just purchased the truck back and replced the 50 gallons worth of old cells with a 32 gallon plastic cell and am stoked.

As far as my buggy goes...Aluminum all the way:awesomework:

I built my own 9 gal cell .125 al with a .25 bottom were it "could" come into contact with rocks.It has elaborate baffleing inside along with a captive sump that has NEVER let the pick up run dry.

jeepmauler said:

Did you seal the inside of the cell? I just removed two steel cells from the tow rig.When Tom built the cells 8 years ago or so he did not seal them and w/in a year he was battleing internal rust issues.Then I bought the truck from Tom and had worse probs w/it as the rust spread,then I sold the truck to Big Mark and I'm sure it sucked for him too.I just purchased the truck back and replced the 50 gallons worth of old cells with a 32 gallon plastic cell and am stoked.

As far as my buggy goes...Aluminum all the way:awesomework:

I built my own 9 gal cell .125 al with a .25 bottom were it "could" come into contact with rocks.It has elaborate baffleing inside along with a captive sump that has NEVER let the pick up run dry.

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No I didn't seal it. I figured I was only going to use it for 3 years or so..but I'm still using it. I keep the cell full when it's parked, helps keep the rust down and the gas from oxidizing. I checked the fuel filter about 6 weels ago, same one I had when I put the cell in, no rust at all.

I have made a couple of alum cells for buggies. But this cell was going under the rig. I made it big because I like to do stuff like 3 day trips on the Dusy, and not have to worry about fuel.

I had a plastic cell..A outlet fitting leaked from day 1. I replaced it and it still leaked. I was going to do a plastic washer on both side but went with a alum since it was way smaller.

For tech: DONT USE FOAM. This is my old prefilter, It sat outside and got rusty..It was completely packed with foam inside. The fuel cell used the current "fuel safe" foam that supposedly doesnt fall apart.

Hey bunk I'll bet yoru gas gauge don't work...



I've been running the factory yota tank across the back of the frame but I just picked up a 22 gallon Jazz plastic cell in a insulated aluminum box. The cell has foam in it and it's all still new and unused. it should work out good I hope. I need to start gathering AN fittings for it...

WHITE TRASH said:

Hey bunk I'll bet yoru gas gauge don't work...



I've been running the factory yota tank across the back of the frame but I just picked up a 22 gallon Jazz plastic cell in a insulated aluminum box. The cell has foam in it and it's all still new and unused. it should work out good I hope. I need to start gathering AN fittings for it...

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Loose the foam or get a "i told you so":fawkdancesmiley:

yea yea yea... I've still gotta build a rig to put it in first. :haha: