Time to play with the big kids.

Pook said:

Sarg how far from the kingpin/bearing thingy's on your C's is your tierod mounted? Mines pushing 10" to the center of the hiem to get the tierod to clear the front pumpkin. Can't run real highsteer do to the radiator and frame at full stuff.

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I think mine is 6 but it clears the top of my nine just barely and thats with high steer.

Yeah I'm not sure if I like how long the arms are but its either that or bend the tierod which seems to be a real dumb thing to do.

My gut feeling is it will be ok with the arms and when I tie it into the stock steering holes....especially be ok once I get the new fab'd knuckles done.

Looking at the 60deg steering stuff TC is doing I'm guessing they built the forward arm pretty close to the same as what mine is.

it will be fine I have a solid cromo tie rod and its bent alittle but stil works great:redneck:

Was it heat treated? As far as what I have learned about Chromo is if you didn't heat treat it you might as well of used DOM or cold rolled steel because its not much stronger. Thats why the 7075 T6 aluminum works better for link material than your off the shelf DOM. Its already been heat treated for you.

Pook said:

Was it heat treated? As far as what I have learned about Chromo is if you didn't heat treat it you might as well of used DOM or cold rolled steel because its not much stronger. Thats why the 7075 T6 aluminum works better for link material than your off the shelf DOM. Its already been heat treated for you.

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no its not been heat treated but when I get new links I will be going with cromo heat treated and a tie rod too:awesomework:

so how goes the build????:eeek:

Spent a bit of time on it. Can't decide were to mount the wiring and the computer. Trying to keep it tucked out of the way.

Thinking something like this will do the trick.

That should be good for the ECU, but what about getting at the distributor? Is it easy to move that peice? Did you insulate the mounts w/ rubber to reduce shock/vibration?

Looking good mister.:awesomework:

ClarkW said:

That should be good for the ECU, but what about getting at the distributor? Is it easy to move that peice? Did you insulate the mounts w/ rubber to reduce shock/vibration?

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4 bolts and its out. ECU is just sitting there right now, still need to work on its mounting.

Once the distributor is set you don't touch anymore except to change caps/rotors and wires, so it shouldn't be a big deal to have it up there. I'm a bit worried about heat so I might wall it off from the engine and and some air holes from the sides and through the back fire wall.

hmmmm... How sealed is it going to be around the computer pook? My one concern is heat. Thos ecm's are gennerally in a hot area but not directly in a heated area. There is going to a TON of heat coming off that plenum and up onto the computer...

I've started drawing up a billet aluminum finned box for the computer that will have the connections inside and will be oring sealed. I pulled the computer board out of the stock tin box and have it all measured up.

The aluminum is bought and as soon as I get back from running the BITD Silver State300 this weekend I'll be making chips on th emill

Pook said:

I've started drawing up a billet aluminum finned box for the computer that will have the connections inside and will be oring sealed. I pulled the computer board out of the stock tin box and have it all measured up.

The aluminum is bought and as soon as I get back from running the BITD Silver State300 this weekend I'll be making chips on th emill

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Make sure its finned top and bottom...

Its getting finned in every way possible.

Pook said:

Its getting finned in every way possible.

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Then make sure to not connect to the bottom panel--make sure it attatches to the top so it can use that as a heat sink also..

Yeah I'll probably ditch the tray thats in there and make more of a tab setup or put it on rubber spacers.

I am also thinking that the new box might allow it to be attached in the interior out in the open since it will be in a sealed box barely any bigger than the stock tin one

Pook said:

Yeah I'll probably ditch the tray thats in there and make more of a tab setup or put it on rubber spacers.

I am also thinking that the new box might allow it to be attached in the interior out in the open since it will be in a sealed box barely any bigger than the stock tin one

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ANother thing to think about and you meantioned it. Those series of ECM's have never been known to take alot of vibrations (early ones in cars VERY BAD) and have been known to break solder joints and fail... So if you can damped the vibrations the better off you are..... Granted some guys have just thrown screws in them and been ok, But I have seen them fail...

Pook catch me up real quick, what year 4.3 is the one you are using? What kind of wiring harness is this? Custom thinned or aftermarket? ECM reprogramed? I am going to use a 96 4.3 in a future build but it was manufactured in the 12th month of 96. Do you know if that would be considered a 97. Just trying to figure out what is commonly used. Thanks:awesomework:

Mog9buG said:

Pook catch me up real quick, what year 4.3 is the one you are using? What kind of wiring harness is this? Custom thinned or aftermarket? ECM reprogramed? I am going to use a 96 4.3 in a future build but it was manufactured in the 12th month of 96. Do you know if that would be considered a 97. Just trying to figure out what is commonly used. Thanks:awesomework:

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It would have to be an early 95 or bellow as it is an obd1 computer. According to all data the 95 came with both obd1 and 2 systems. I guess the obd1 has alot more simple computer wiring harness than the obd2.:awesomework: