another death wobble

alright after looking everywhere cant find a complete answer, so here we go..

i have death wobble at around 20 mph, and it seems to get worse the faster i go, im running 38.5x14.5x15 tsl's with about 20psi on my toyota, on the front end there is no track bar, i also got a hi steer on it with 5.29 gears , i dont think the problem is the lack of a steering stabalizer, but the lack of a track bar to keep the body from side to side? has anyone else encountered this?

Alinement (sp)? Large side wall+low psi? Spring walk/shift? Seems like it could be a few things. Try upping the psi and see if that helps, or make sure the axle is square.

Caster...or camber...I always get confused with these two.

Also check for the obvious stuff like loose TRE's, ball joints etc...

What kind of toe in are you running?

That truck doesnt need a track bar.

It needs a steering stabalizer.

I know your truck. I have worked on it many times. It has my old wore out SXs on it. Good luck getting those to run round.

You also need to replace the wore out tierod ends.:awesomework:

CHOP SHOP said:

That truck doesnt need a track bar.

It needs a steering stabalizer.

I know your truck. I have worked on it many times. It has my old wore out SXs on it. Good luck getting those to run round.

You also need to replace the wore out tierod ends.:awesomework:

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where are you located? and how well do you know this truck?

I dont run steering stabalizers on any of my rigs. They arent needed if everythig is working correctly. Check your balljoints for play, see if your wheel/tires are in balance, if that is all in good order check your caster angle. I usually run between 4-7 degrees positive(leaned back) caster on mine. You can also check the toe in, I run mine with 1/8" toe in. You shouldnt need a track bar to keep your axle stable laterally on a leaf spring suspension. If it turns out to be the tires as chop shop said(sounds like it is) a steering stabalizer will atleast mask it a bit. my .02:awesomework:

rockcroller said:

where are you located? and how well do you know this truck?

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What do you want to know? Your truck is a whore. Its been around!

I built the bumpers and have done alot of other things over time.

I have no clue what the last owner might have done to it. They kinda had their own strange ideas.

pos97TJ said:

I dont run steering stabalizers on any of my rigs.

If it turns out to be the tires as chop shop said(sounds like it is) a steering stabalizer will atleast mask it a bit. my .02:awesomework:

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Those tires are junk for the street. Even a stabalizer is not going to fully erase it. Its a combo of loose **** and lumpy tires.

Just man up. When it starts to wobble, POWER THU IT.

Dont let up and wonder to yourself, "why does my truck shake?" or it will get worse untill it gets to 35mph and you get scared.

Run it hard up untill its at least at 40 mph then it will smooth out.

Slow down quickly too. dont creep down in speed untill it shakes itself off the road.

the key is to avoid the 28-36mph range. The quicker you can accelerate or decellerate though this range the less it will shake.

Untill then, SXa love the woods, hate the street.:beer:

CHOP SHOP said:

I know your truck. I have worked on it many times.

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Thats probably why he is having this problem :haha:

how many times have those tires lost a bead and how much **** is in them?

toyota has a trunnion bearings and it is important to get the shims right (the ones that go under the steering arms) it controls the load on the bearings. If the load is wrong you will never get it to stop shaking and them tire will add to the shake. If the shims are correct it will take 15 pounds to pull the knuckle with the tie rod disconnected. Trailgear sells the tool to measure the poundage. When you change to high steer i always check the shims. Hope this helps

pos97TJ said:

I dont run steering stabalizers on any of my rigs. They arent needed if everythig is working correctly. Check your balljoints for play, see if your wheel/tires are in balance, if that is all in good order check your caster angle. I usually run between 4-7 degrees negative(leaned back) caster on mine. You can also check the toe in, I run mine with 1/8" toe in. You shouldnt need a track bar to keep your axle stable laterally on a leaf spring suspension. If it turns out to be the tires as chop shop said(sounds like it is) a steering stabalizer will atleast mask it a bit. my .02:awesomework:

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FYI, upper BJ leaned back= positive caster...

well i climed under the thing and the first thing i found was the steering box was loose. so igot that tightnd up and that seems to take the slop out of the hole steering, its gunna be a couple days befor i get it on the road to check if that fixes it..


thanks guys for all your help

well i had some free time and took the yoda around the block and i still got the wobble, so the next step is gunna be add some air to the tires go get the tires ballanced, ball joints then steering stabalizer..

rockcroller said:

well i had some free time and took the yoda around the block and i still got the wobble, so the next step is gunna be add some air to the tires go get the tires ballanced, ball joints then steering stabalizer..

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I wouldn't bother balancing a super swamper. Thats not gonna fix the problem. Just go check your ball joints for play and your air pres. It took more effort to ask on here than it did to find the loose steering box huh? Just keep looking, you'll find the problem.

to check the tow in should i tale the wheels off the measure from the break disc or leave the tires on?

rockcroller said:

to check the tow in should i tale the wheels off the measure from the break disc or leave the tires on?

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If you can get to them, you can use the edge of the rim as it sits. I'm a little particular, so I take the wheels off and clamp a straight-edge to the brake rotors to be able to measure it at a fixed distance both front and rear.

zukkev said:

FYI, upper BJ leaned back= positive caster...

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Corrected:awesomework:

64FJ40 said:

If you can get to them, you can use the edge of the rim as it sits. I'm a little particular, so I take the wheels off and clamp a straight-edge to the brake rotors to be able to measure it at a fixed distance both front and rear.

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x2

I also take the wheels off and use a straight edge. Make sure your wheels are straight, I measure out half the diameter of the tire for my measuring points(which is wear the tread of your tire would be).

If I'm doin a tape measure toe set, I take the measurement at the tread, as that is where the toe-in should be set...if you measure in closer to the hat/hub, and set it to say 1/8" toe in, as you move out toward the tread of whatever size tire you run, the measurement will increase to twice what you set it to (if you measure from the midway point between the center of the hub and the tire tread...) Make sense???? It does in my head!!!:haha:

zukkev said:

If I'm doin a tape measure toe set, I take the measurement at the tread, as that is where the toe-in should be set...if you measure in closer to the hat/hub, and set it to say 1/8" toe in, as you move out toward the tread of whatever size tire you run, the measurement will increase to twice what you set it to (if you measure from the midway point between the center of the hub and the tire tread...) Make sense???? It does in my head!!!:haha:

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Same basis as 3" longer shackles don't equal 3" of lift. :awesomework:

I usually use a toe stick between the wheels and set it at 1/16th in.