• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

Cheerleader Jeep... 1 ton edition

Oh my!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0129.jpg
    IMG_0129.jpg
    40 KB · Views: 490
And no, that is not a man in a :rb: shirt dancing on my hood... It's a parrot, sitting on a tree branch. :haha:
 
Looking good!


is the right side some after market inner? It looks thicker?

Yeah, I ****ered up the stock inner C in my first attempt at narrowing the housing... had to cut it off and get this aftermarket one, then pay 90 bucks to have it punched out to the right axle tube diameter. Bad news.

I work slow.
 
One corner of it sits on it's own weight now. Wish I had three other tires/wheels but I don't. Gotta keep movin, xraidedj is talking about planning a trip to the Rubicon next summer.

The axle width is perfect. Narrowing a 85-91 Ford D60 exactly 5.875 (5 and 7/8) inches lines the spring perches up perfectly with the YJ frame rail width. Adding 2" spacers on each side in order to run stock H1 double locks pushes the WMS back out 4", so I ended up with a WMS that is a hair under 2" less than full width, and matches up almost perfectly with the unmodified standard SRW 14 bolt rear. The 38 TSL just barely kisses the end of the bolt on the spring pack clamp and full lock. I will turn the bolts in those around so the head of the bolt is facing out, and should have no contact at all then.

I'm giddy.

I'm going to have exhaust clearance issues with the driveshaft, since the D60 pinion sits much further inboard than the low pinion D44 waggy I had in there before, but I should be able to remedy that by changing the B-pipe to a TJ one which routes the exhaust in a big U out of the manifold, and around the front of the oil pan and then back. This will also get the exhaust out of a vulnerable area crossing over right under the transmission stock YJ style.

I hope I don't have bellhousing/driveshaft clearance issues... having to run a 2 piece front DL with a pillowblock wouldn't be the end of the world, but I already have a stock Ford F-350 front driveline that has the oddball Ford joint on one end and a 1350 CV on the other, just need to have it retubed/lengthened.

Tip: make sure you get the right upper kingpin seal if you have a 85-91 Ford 60... it's taller than the chevy, dodge and early ford ones apparently... the kits I bought didn't have them, but the ones on my axle were in good shape so I'm just going to run those. Pirate4x4 kingpin rebuild article to the rescue!
 

Attachments

  • photo(9).jpg
    photo(9).jpg
    44.8 KB · Views: 381
  • l_dbb1b5c9fa01430dae2ef0372fdfdd80.jpg
    l_dbb1b5c9fa01430dae2ef0372fdfdd80.jpg
    39.2 KB · Views: 382
Last edited:
Matt - did you beef anything up? What are you using for factory vs aftermarket components?

You talkin about the 60? If so, the only thing I'm running aftermarket is a chromo long side inner, just cause I didn't want to sink money into shortening and resplining the stock inner when I will probably upgrade to all chromo's and 35 spline outers in the future. Rest is stock 30 spline outers, napa brand joints.
 
So I'm debating wheel base right now.

I will be 73.5" bulge to bulge front and rear with the 38 TSL's on the H1's... If I stick with the flipped XJ leafs in the rear, the wheelbase will end up being about 106"...

If I go back to a YJ-style/length pack, of undetermined brand (probably RE 1444's like up front), and re-do the mounts, I would be about 102-103" depending on where I place things.

Opinions? I know everyone always says longer longer! but I was pretty happy with the factory front axle location and the 5.5" stretch in the rear, which put me in the same ball park (102-103") that I would be in with the front stretch and a couple inch stretch in rear.
 
Mine was at 105 now at 108. The longer wheelbase is nice for steep climbs but you really need a high clearance belly to make it work. Its only a couple inches :stirpot:
 
Flat is the plan....

106 with flipped XJ leafs it is. I'm going to re-do all the mounts though so it sits about 1.5" lower than it used to.

I think you will be happy with that. Can your front tires hit the leaf springs?
 
I think you will be happy with that. Can your front tires hit the leaf springs?

Nope, they just barely touched the end of the bolt in the leaf pack clamp, so I turned them around so they point in. No touchy now at full steering stop.
 
Looks good Matt. How do you like those RE springs? I just picked up a pair of them for the front of my truck, looked like a good way to gain much needed uptravel without having to get silly with mount placement.

If you need another set of those tires I know of a set of 4 with about 90ish percent tread, street and mud only that can be had for under $600...
 
^^^^^thisl is the perfect deal. I think the one on the jeep is the only one he has.:awesomework:




Isn't that the spare you had for sale here? The ones I know of are 14.5" wide but hell for the price ya just can't beat it. They are currently sitting next to a buddies shop drying out. :booo:
 
Top