Matt, let me know if the high steer arms make the tie rod too long. I could shorten it up.:awesomework:
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Cheerleader Jeep... 1 ton edition
- Thread starter NotMatt
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Matt, let me know if the high steer arms make the tie rod too long. I could shorten it up.:awesomework:
WHITE TRASH1
fruit stripe
Yea he sold them on the 4th sorry to forget about ya.... Sucks too, he only got $650 out of them.
Rig looks sweet, that tie rod should hold up nicely.
I tried, it won't. I could have bunk clearance it a little after I get everything adjusted... maybe flatten the top out, but I think it would still hit the springs when I flex or turn the wheels unless I had him take a lot off. Only option is below or get high steer arms and shorten it up a little... then my plan for the ram mount won't work, so I'm still on the fence about what to do there.
I could make high steer work simple enough I think, with a little frame notch depending on how much up travel I end up with after the bump stops. I think I'm just going to leave it as is for now, it's easy enough to have the tierod shortened up and re-do the ram mount later for high steer, just don't have the extra cash for a bling set of high steer arms right now.
Unless somebody has a set for sale for cheap.... ?? :redneck:
WHITE TRASH1
fruit stripe
Please tell me you are making or buying a tube calmp instead of welding to that piece of art tie rod...
eh, Big deal. Fwiw i have been wanting to try something. If someone wants to use a tube clamp i was thinking use a 1 1/4 dia clamp and i could turn the tie rod down in the right area for the clamp to nest in.
Sorry for the hijack, But you deserve it after going to that bbq today.
Some progress. Floor cut and Atlas in... I THINK I have enough room for a one piece front driveshaft. Bellhousing clearance will be the tough part, I'll have to have the driveline guy make it from thick wall small dia. tubing. We'll see.
It's clocked as flat as it can go, and I need to cut and bend a little more of the tub for transmission clearance, as I'm running 1" lift motor mounts and no body lift. I should end up with 1-1.5" of skid below the frame rails.
It's clocked as flat as it can go, and I need to cut and bend a little more of the tub for transmission clearance, as I'm running 1" lift motor mounts and no body lift. I should end up with 1-1.5" of skid below the frame rails.
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TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Take a visual, to see if clocking it down one bolt pattern (3 or 4*, can't remember) will give you the necessary clearance for a more standardized front driveshaft.
I've got TH400s in both my rigs, both with Atlas's. One's a lefthand drop, one's a righthand drop. Both have plenty of driveshaft clearance, and although they aren't clocked flat, they are clocked at a minimal angle.
The secondary benefit of a slight down-angle on the Atlas, is that they have better lubrication volume, and in my case, they spit less 90wt out the breather hole.
I've got TH400s in both my rigs, both with Atlas's. One's a lefthand drop, one's a righthand drop. Both have plenty of driveshaft clearance, and although they aren't clocked flat, they are clocked at a minimal angle.
The secondary benefit of a slight down-angle on the Atlas, is that they have better lubrication volume, and in my case, they spit less 90wt out the breather hole.
Oh yeah, and here's the final stance with H1's. Dually hubs on a 6" narrowed front, 2" spacers on a stock width 14 bolt out back.
It's 81" bulge to bulge with the 42's on.
If I feel like I want it narrower, I can put the SRW hubs back on and move the 2" spacers back to the front. That takes about 3" off the front on either side so that makes it 75".
And for some tech... H1 wheels have the smaller "GM" sized center hole, so you have to take about 1/8" off all the way around for them to fit on the Ford dually hubs (or SRW hubs without spacers). The easiest way to do this if you don't have access to a mill is to bolt a wheel spacer onto the back side, and use a worn down grinder disc and take material out until you get right to the spacer. I did all four just in case I ever need to swap them around on the trail or something.
It's 81" bulge to bulge with the 42's on.
If I feel like I want it narrower, I can put the SRW hubs back on and move the 2" spacers back to the front. That takes about 3" off the front on either side so that makes it 75".
And for some tech... H1 wheels have the smaller "GM" sized center hole, so you have to take about 1/8" off all the way around for them to fit on the Ford dually hubs (or SRW hubs without spacers). The easiest way to do this if you don't have access to a mill is to bolt a wheel spacer onto the back side, and use a worn down grinder disc and take material out until you get right to the spacer. I did all four just in case I ever need to swap them around on the trail or something.
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Yeah, I may still do that... depends on how much I can tuck the transmission up in there with some firewall/floor pan massaging. I don't want much hanging down, so having it clocked up as far as it will go is preferred... but of course the driveshaft clearance is going to be the deciding factor. I need to get some PVC to slide in there and cycle the suspension to see how close I'm going to be to the bellhousing at full driver's side stuff.
Figured I'd post a little photo update here since I've been absent for a bit. I've been hard at work.
The ram is mounted. I built the cover off of a stock thick D60 cover, plated and welded the **** out of it.
The skid plate is DONE and in place for good. That's an old pic, it's plated with 3/16's on the bottom now and has a cutout in the front for the driveline.
The driveline is a stock F-350 that I cut up and lengthened.
That's the bottom of the fuel cell mount... 1x1 angle, welded right to the tub. There's another identical piece that goes on top. I'm using rubber stick on weather stripping to give it some cushion between the two pieces, and four lengths of all-thread to hold it down.
It doesn't steer quite yet, I spent 450 bucks at PSC the other day for more fittings, new pump, and a cooler. Should be steering at least well enough to take it out for some hot laps next weekend if I get the brake lines run this weekend.
[EDIT]: CRAP, I tried to add some pics but it says my storage quota for attachments is full, even though I deleted most everything...
The ram is mounted. I built the cover off of a stock thick D60 cover, plated and welded the **** out of it.
The skid plate is DONE and in place for good. That's an old pic, it's plated with 3/16's on the bottom now and has a cutout in the front for the driveline.
The driveline is a stock F-350 that I cut up and lengthened.
That's the bottom of the fuel cell mount... 1x1 angle, welded right to the tub. There's another identical piece that goes on top. I'm using rubber stick on weather stripping to give it some cushion between the two pieces, and four lengths of all-thread to hold it down.
It doesn't steer quite yet, I spent 450 bucks at PSC the other day for more fittings, new pump, and a cooler. Should be steering at least well enough to take it out for some hot laps next weekend if I get the brake lines run this weekend.
[EDIT]: CRAP, I tried to add some pics but it says my storage quota for attachments is full, even though I deleted most everything...
wheelinjp
Well-Known Member
can you use a photobucket account then paste them on? looking forward to the pics.
Here, exhaust is done and it runs after tweaking a bit. Still sounds like it has a miss, probably just needs the cobwebs cleared out after sitting for so long!
My steering parts should be here today!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/i_0TCdsJfjQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
My steering parts should be here today!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/i_0TCdsJfjQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Just about ready for the 2nd trip out. Added some tube onto the cage to fill out the rear last night and replace the stock stuff I cut out. Eventually the entire cage is getting cut out and re-done, but for now I wanted it to not look so goofy and be a little safer so I bent some 1.5" up and made some C-pillars that tie into the frame. Not much tech here, but here's a driveway poser shot lol...
JKZ Motorsports
Well-Known Member
Man, I give it to you for sticking with the project as long as you have. There are very few people on here that would have done that. I know I would have probably sold it off a long time ago.
Looks good, have fun:awesomework::beer:
Looks good, have fun:awesomework::beer:
Yeah, it's definitely taken some time. When I started this project I swore I was never going to spend money on a credit card to buy parts again like I've done in the past... which is why it has taken me so long. It's paid for, top to bottom... which is a nice feeling.
JKZ Motorsports
Well-Known Member
Awesome:awesomework:
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Gotta be a good feeling gettin' 'er dirty after all these yrs...:awesomework:
I've only had it out to Liberty once so far on sort of a shakedown run... got one trail in (snowshoe) and ended up calling it a day due to steering issues... I think I have that all solved now, crossmyfingers... and am headed to Naches this weekend for the PNW meet & greet. Should be a good time, and damn it feels good to be back out wheeling (driving my own rig) after so long. It's far from done, but done enough for now.
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Good deal Matt....
