Carport garage input

Alright so needing some extra storage space at the house and been looking around at storage buildings. They are not cheap for what you get around the 4k range and still don't get that much space. Went by the landscaping place the other day and he is selling metal garage carports. Baisclynits a carport with sides and a door. For a 20x24 it was 2200. And that was installed. I can pour the concrete. Don't need power maybe in the future. So anybody ever used a building like this?. Just gonna store mowers and yard equipment and other stuff to clean out the bonus room so we can finish it off. Not a forever house just need more storage while here. Maybe some parts and a few other things. Just want the garage back to a garage. Or is there any other options for a better deal?

Is the 20x24 built like the one shown? What's the wall height? How many and what size doors?

I'd be interested at that price. You'd have to do some extra anchoring due to light construction. I've been looking for some more storage also and that's a lot better price than any I've seen. Would like bigger and considering building my own but can't do it for that amount. I think the tin I quoted was higher but much bigger building too.

I believe wall height was 8'. 1 12' door and a side walk through door. Those aren't the exact ones pictured just for reference.

Check the hardline vendor section

I've been looking at those too but for a place to work on my junk. The 30x30 with either a single or double doors and a walk through door with 10' walls run around 5k installed from what I've seen.

dirthead who in the vendor section sells them?

SmithBuiltStructures

i cant get on board with running the roof tin the wrong way.

Sidewalls, whatever, but the roof tin running sideways is dumb on a full enclosed building.

I put up 2 small metal buildings at my old house. They came from lowes. I put the 10x8 over the pool filter where the previous one was. I put a 10x12 up and used it for storing mower, crotch rocket and random junk.
worked great for no more room i had to work with.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_274592-25-LW1012FB_0__?productId=3125501&Ntt=storage+building&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dstorage%2Bbuilding&facetInfo=#img




Going by what your saying you'll be using it for I'd look in to this^ for $399

I found the same thing when my parents were looking for a storage shed. The metal buildigns seemed like a better deal.

If all you are looking to use it for is storage, i would save the money and put down a level gravel lot vs spending on concrete. maybe pour some footings for the building. If you want concrete later, you can pour the floor.

Yeah been thinking of waiting on the concrete. not really even sure what it would cost to pour a concrete pad.

7 yards (added just over a yard from 4" thick on 20x24 for thickened edges to form a footing in a monlithic pour) is about $110 a yard ($108 around here). Any less and you probably have a short load charge, so plan on $700 plus ish in mud, less than $100 in steel and some form boards if you can do it all yourself along with stripping the grass and putting suitable base down. Gravel with screening or just screenings work well as they set up. put it high enough that water doesn't run in and create a drainage swail around it from the high side to the sides. is the front or back the high side?

TBItoy said:

i cant get on board with running the roof tin the wrong way.

Sidewalls, whatever, but the roof tin running sideways is dumb on a full enclosed building.

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Exactly......it will be a leaking POS....not to mention the quality of 29 Guage sheets that bird **** will dent.

I'd look further.

I installed garages and carports similar to those for about 5 yrs. In my opinion there hard to beat. You go to work in the morning and come home to fully complete garage. I installed for wilsons handi port. They've been in business for years and stand behind their product. No there not a pole barn or carpenter style garage but for the money I don't think you'll be disappointed.

The back would be the high side. I'm just thinking best bang for the buck. Probably have about 3-6 more years in this house and just need some storage space till we build our shop/house

jhardy said:

The back would be the high side. I'm just thinking best bang for the buck. Probably have about 3-6 more years in this house and just need some storage space till we build our shop/house

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Not sure what you mean by the back being the high side. But you want about a 2" drop from front to back or all your water drainage will come down in the front on your doors. I'd like to have one myself.

Dwalk said:

Exactly......it will be a leaking POS....not to mention the quality of 29 Guage sheets that bird **** will dent.

I'd look further.

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Could you explain this? Yes, any roof can and will leak. I don't see the direction causing a leak if properly installed as there is enough fall to prevent water backing up to next rib. Metal roofs mainly leak at screw holes and the rubber washers would last longer than he will need the building. So 0.004" is the difference in being dent resistant? All I'm saying is for intended use and span between rafters this should fit his needs. I'm sure if you supplied the lathing the metal could be ran vertically, if gave advance notice so could have sheets ran correct length. A high wind will bend any metal roof and blow water between sheets.

it would be a steep ass roof to not have each rib holding water, running to the end, running off or in. With the tin ran across the roof it will not shed that last bit of water. I'm sure they have something figured out to let it out when it gets to the end? No experience with them.
You generally don't have a ramp going to the back of the building so I like having the back the high side. you can cut a swail around it and then ramp the front down the hill so it shed water from all sides.

I have a canopy similar to that but not enclosed. They use a very standard base and just upgrade from that.

Just roof is base price.
Add walls=extra $$
Add ends=extra
Add doors=extra
And so forth till you have a full building. The design of that roof on mine is the water doesn't run OFF the ends but into a end cap that diverts water down, sort of a makeshift gutter. It clogs very easy with leaves and anything that flys off a tree. You can get roof ribs that run down but its extra money cause now they have to do more cuts off of a sheet of material.

They are great for storage but without a little work they are drafty and not sealed like a stick built building. For what it is, it's a good deal, but don't expect it to be fancy.

Shortbus said:

Could you explain this? Yes, any roof can and will leak. I don't see the direction causing a leak if properly installed as there is enough fall to prevent water backing up to next rib. Metal roofs mainly leak at screw holes and the rubber washers would last longer than he will need the building. So 0.004" is the difference in being dent resistant? All I'm saying is for intended use and span between rafters this should fit his needs. I'm sure if you supplied the lathing the metal could be ran vertically, if gave advance notice so could have sheets ran correct length. A high wind will bend any metal roof and blow water between sheets.

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They are just over priced cheap built piles of ****...ever seen what a moderate Thunderstorm will do to one? 0.003" makes a big difference in the strength of the panels.

Re:

Those metal ones are cheap imo. If it was me I and I could I would spend more on a wooden unit. Won't dent as easily and if you ever get tired of it drag it away from the house and a gallon of gas and your good to go.