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For the price, I don't have much to complain about the FOA bumps....or FOA product in general. air bumps are just a little air strut......oil, valving, pressure. aught to be able to make most any of them work. FOA fit/finish can certainly leave something to be wanted...but, again, for the...

Hugh and I have both been running the Jed's ones, since before they were the Jed's ones.... I think the 2 we've got were 2 of his first ones, when he was selling them through Staz, not on his own... we both got ours un-welded so we could put them where we wanted them. We've had them for whats...

4 link and a steering box is NOT rocket science.....can and has been done. think push-pull steering. the drag link doesn't have to go side-->side. :beer:

I don't buy the $5k-$8k thing.... a front 60 CAN be done on the cheap (-ish) and "using junkyard parts means you have junk".....really? I started w/ a $75 bare housing that had a cracked/bent housing....and built from there... granted....my junk IS junk....but my front end didn't cost $8k...

My $.02 I think "hard" seats in a "rock crawler" are a bad idea at best, and dangerous at worst... I think its all about trade-offs. I will openly admit that its true....racecars that are normally involved in the "worst" wrecks ALL run rigid seats....BUT.. 1...."most" of their big impacts are...

cool... cuz I've seen a.....dana 20 I think....that was rigged to front dig just by pulling the pills....and it pop'd once, and got itself bound up in hi/low somehow... was a royal PITA to get it out....but didn't really hurt it.

So... is the only way to do this w/ an Atlas to remove the interlock pills? does that mean that 'theortically' you can get into mismatched ranges and bind up the box....cuz you've removed the interlocks? Can you not grind the shift rails like on a 205....so you can still have whatever you...

my $.02.... I was really surprized when I heard that you COULDN'T have front-hi.... I use front hi quite a bit....especially in the mud...or in the snow.... I'd be pissed if I couldn't burn the fronts in high range... --B

that absolutely woulda worked.... the stub shaft/drive flange may have taken some creativity....but aside from that, pinch the fawking brake line off, and get home!!!! :beer:

I pretty sure that is incorrect.......unless you're talking about 2wd kingpins stuff... a Dana 60 kingpin knuckle will bolt up on a Dana 60 kingpin axle.... the brakes, spindle, etc does NOT interchange between ford and....well...anybody else, but chevy/dodge does... mine is a ford axle, dodge...

don't "groove" them..... you need to "carve", "shape", "hack", etc.... I think.....for free especially.....they've got to have potential....some of the side lugs are pretty big....you just need to really open them up....

yup, that one.

for clarification... all trailers travelling through WA need to have a breakaway setup? cuz I ain't got one....

and thats just it......its all about getting the gearing right where you want it, and not having to drive around it.....and tire size plays directly into gearing. I love what I've got.....but any higher gearing (higher gears, or taller tires) and I'd have to start driving around it... and I...

My truck is nothing wild by any means... but....my point was simply about gearing and the speed limit.....my truck tows awsome at about 85mph in 6th......but doing 55 fawking mph through the Republic of Kalifornia puts me somewhere around 1400rpm's in 6th..... I really like where I'm...

mmmm......you sure about that? I think that might be backwards..

I've never heard a 12v that was near as loud as my truck is (HO 24v...the loudest of the loud IP's) and all the Edge boxes for 24v trucks add timing, and definitly help w/ milage

with my foot out of it, I don't see much difference between cruising on 5x5 vs. 1x5 (NEVER use 1x1.....can't stand the sluggish-ness) :awesomework:

???? notice a little difference?? :awesomework:

you get that box yet? :awesomework: