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I made one once with a hub, spindle and bearings I cut off an old trailer axle.

The chemicals in pressure treated wood will rust steel. :;

Same grinder without wheels is $75 at Lowes. My DeWalt grinder died last week. I really wanted to replace it with a Metabo but I got the Dewalt for almost half the price.

My slab has no insulation or radiant either... It's not that bad just don't lay directly on the concrete, I use my creeper for anything on or near the floor. :; The nice thing about concrete is 'thermal mass'. Even without radiant if you have like a pellet or wood stove- once you get it warm...

I like it :awesomework: Does your rig have floor covering the trans also or is it exposed? Do they require them (or does anyone ever use one) on manual trans as well?

The reason I ask is because if you have any form of heat you are required to insulate to meet energy code. All this means is wait till after the final inspection to put the heating appliance in. :; Everyone keeps saying do radiant in the slab because they don't know what it costs to insulate...

Nice shop :cool: Are you planning to insulate the slab?

Budget built homebrew **** is :cool: I have nothing but respect for a rig that can wheel hardcore trails AND drive cross country thousands of miles to do it. :awesomework:

You need to run race gas. The ethanol in pump gas is what breaks down the foam. :; This page has a bunch of fuel pump info about halfway down. List of applications for E2000 and a couple others- http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45292

'Fuel cells for dummies' has already been covered. :awesomework: http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38551 (The link in the 1st post will answer your question)

I would be more concerned with the technician than the parts. The quality of the trans rebuild comes from surgical cleanliness and a meticulous attention to detail. You could get the best parts money can buy and have your trans fail from a single cotton fiber clogging a valve. Or you can...

Well after seeing it now I really don't know. Looks like mabey an inner C has new weld on it? And all the axles I was thinking of had spring-under perches cast as part of the center section. Mabey it is a narrowed Chevy? The link I posted before has info on where to look for #'s...

I think he means Longfields 30 splines which are about equivalent to stock dana 60. Stock toy vs. stock 44 I am curious about though, I imagine Toyota wins. If it is toy width and passenger side then mabey Cj or Wagoneer. Waggys were passenger side until 79 and there was both wide trac and...

Welcome to the club Mark. :awesomework: The broken u-joint club. :haha: Post a pic it's easy to tell what they are. If the front is drivers side and narrow (60") it's probably 80-92 grand wagoneer. The earlier Wagoneers and Chevy 44's are passenger side and wider.

The people telling you to just somehow put your windshield back on have obviously not seen how badly a YJ can be beaten. :haha: I would aluminum skin the roof and 4" strip of plexi on the top and bottom of the windshield. I like my heater too. :D

Getting rid of a toyota axle for a dana 44 seems like a step in the wrong direction IMO. And I have dana 44's. :;

They make CTM's for nissan pathfinders? :scratchhead::wtf:

Anything loose or slightly bent in the draglink/tierod will cause death wobble. Or a broken center pin. Both are easy to rule out or fix.

The angle of the driveline at the t-case rear output is the main concern. Shorter wheelbase rigs need to raise the motor mounts to correct the angle. The downside of that is the vehicles COG goes up. Trick question- It all depends on how far of a span, what kind of structure is...

I'm in the middle of an auto trans project with some similar dilemnas. I got a 2wd TH350 and picked up a 4wd output from JB conversions and a B&M transkit from Summit Racing...