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I second the fan clutch tool. Did mine and autozone/schmucks didnt have the GM tool. Was a pain on the ass without it. The rest was straight forward.

Everyone salute to the Mayor of Hardcoresville!!!!:fawkdancesmiley: Sup dude.....

Im the dude who uses the one a Trailready everyday. It works great on the slower speed, but the higher speed creates tto much melted buildup that you have to go back and clean off. Also, a 45 degree notch on 2" tube is about its max. Its still new to us, Mauler and I are still figuring it out...

I didn't touch the exhaust when I did my clutch/tranny.

The exhaust unbolts below the manifold. If the bolts are seized, You could just unbolt the manifold from the head, it might be easier. 22R exhaust is a pretty simple design. When I did my clutch, I undid the tranny bolts to the engine, then the four crossmember bolts. I undid the front and rear...

It may feel a little underpowered with the 22re, but not too bad. Correct me if im wrong guys, but shouldn't it have 4.56's stock with the 22re? It should atleast have 4.30's? If so it'll be fine only stepping up to 33's. Brent

FREE!!! Well, plus the cost of rear shackles (50$). It'll make the ride a little rougher, but it will lift it about 2". Then just buy a set of cheap 33's Brent

No the head gasket is fine. I just have a stuck valve or something (35 psi in the #1 cylinder). I have a rebuilt head Im just gonna swap on so I don't have to mess with the old one. Thansk for the tips. Brent

Im swapping a new head onto my 83 22r. Any tips or info on this? It seems pretty straight forward, just never done one before on this truck. Whats a good head/intake/exhaust gasket kit to buy? What about new head bolts? Where to get em? Anything im missing? Thanks guys. Brent

I mounted mine as far forward as possible, especially if you move your axle forward. I moved mine 3" forward and my steering box is through the core support. The drag link has to remain in front of the tirod at full stuff, you don't want them to cross! Does that make sense? I also run Sky's...

That was my thought, but my father in law and I were arguing about it. Just the top heaviness of the Yota is enough to scare me. It would be nice though, I don't have access to a car trailer anymore and with all the crackdown on street-legalness I need one. The trailer just sits in the garage...

no brakes, but hasn't been a problem with similar weight behind a 3/4ton 4x4 pickup

I recently built a 4-place trailer for my quads. I used a narrowed mobile home axle. Its a heavy duty built trailer, not a backyard hack job. The deck is marine 3/4 ply and the frame is 3x6 c-channel. We haul 4 quads on it (i figure 2500+ lbs with gear and fuel) 7 hours to Florence,Or. at 75 mph...

C'mon Pat, it'll be fun. You can "Dukes of Hazzard" it like Brian! I'll be down for another Busy run anytime. Brent

Ya, they're south of fife, just north of the T-dome:redneck: Brent

Is that williams oil in Fife. If so, they do. They made my stainless brake lines and they do any hydro line. They're on 99 south of fife. Brent

So stay away form the MC stuff huh? I'll check out the Centerforce. I didn't know about the kevlar not slipping, that would suck in alot of situations. Im going with T-case gearing here soon, so I want something that will last and not fade when it gets hot. Thanks guys. Brent

My clutch in my truck is starting to slip after long days on the trail. I have a 83 yota pushing 35s with stock gearing (for now). I've looked into the Marlin Crawler kevlar clutches and just wanted some info or reccomendations on kevlar vs. OEM and 1200 vs. 1600 pressure plates. Thanks Brent