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are you talking about a 4/5 point harness? If so, you'll want a tube ... IMO Tie the B's and eff the idea of "reclining bucket seats" :D

that "tator chip trailer" looks like an awesome platfrom to build from. Hope you got a smokin' deal and looking forward to it's build ... :cheer:

backfires, "rich" smelling exhaust, stumbling during acceleration ... Checkout http://www.blazerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1374 note in post 4 the pictures with the "clean side" ... that's a leaking FPR. If the other side was "clean" then it would be a leaking CPI. In your first post...

Just a thought ... that vintage 4.3 is notorious for having problems with the CPI injection "spider". Pull the upper plenum and look to see if there are clean spots where fuel is squirting out from the injector assembly or poppets. Pretty simple to confirm or rule out it as an issue ...

loose muffler perhaps? I had a muffler clamp loosen on my truck and it would make a ticking like rattle in some circumstances (and not always either)

I luv what you're doing ... will be truly badazz I really hope you replaced the bulbs in the signal lights!

I'm guessing the problem is alum. mated to steel causing a galvanic reaction (probably enhanced by whatever they drop on the roads around e-burg). In AK, for the fall mounting (studded's), I used paper at the flange (cut close enuf and press over the lugs) ... In spring, just clean the remnants...

a good infared radiant heater should serve your purposes. It'll heat whatever it's pointed at and (if electric) won't have an open flame. Something like a pair of these Costco usually has some, but haven't been to costco lately either.

kinda curious ... is the "race" stuff a jeep only "thing"?

What's your basis for considering this a "polished turd"? (aka Why the hate, and hows about a constructive comment)

Looks like you're getting a good start on preping the rig for duty. I always like to begin a build with routine maintenance (aka every item in the book). Wheel bearings and brakes are a good start. A good fluid change and zerks lubed. Add a tuneup and you have something good and dependable to...

regarding the alt ... The #1 terminal is for the dash warning light. When the alt/regulator goes bad this terminal will go to ground, so wire a lamp in series to a +12v switched. The #2 terminal goes to +12v. Best place is at the junction terminal. (just found this very good pic)

brake fluid can be a pretty good paint remover ...

The other "click" could be the fuel pump relay ... I don;t recall exactly but I think that relay is behind a kick panel.

I'd get the carpet and seats out (and don't put em back). Sounds like you'll be getting new seats, and just cleanup/paint the floor (or put down new carpet or mats or ...). I suspect the vinyl in the dash and door panels has also "absorbed" some of the smell. If you make a mix of baking soda...

can't ya get a pull-a-part assembly and have it re-keyed? I'm guessing a yota (which I know nada about), but can't ya get a pull-a-part lock cylinder re-keyed?

thx, I'll give it a try ...

I need to get an 02 sensor off a header and it's STUCK. I even have a parts rig I haven't work at getting it free from, but its also looking to be a PITA. Any tips? I've tried a 4 sided wrench still wants to round off. soaked one in PB (from both sides), nada. haven't tried the flame wrench...

to get back on topic ... I think it's a good discussion and agree it also varies on what ya got and want todo. I see factors like COG, GVW, center clearance, etc being key in determing an ideal wheelbase/tracwidth. I'm looking to go ~98" of wheelbase, probably 74" trackwidth, 16" frame...

fluke ... and their service is second to none.