12v Cummins Problems

[CHOP SHOP]

I have a few questions regarding my old trusty 12v P-pump engine. Its an all STOCK '98 12V except a filter and 4" exhaust pipe.

On Monday while out in Silverdale the boot connecting my intercooler burst from the inner fender rubbing it. It was pretty loud, making air wooshing noises. At first I thought it was a exhaust leak until I looked and seen the boot ballooning while under load. I had a load (about 8K) and towed it home. Seemed to make it ok. No big loss of power, maybe just a little, but I drive it like an old man. It was about a 60 mile trip, mostly flat.

So on the last leg of the trip there is a long steep hill. It pulled it fine, but afterwards I had a noticeable turbo whine that I had not heard before.

Can driving it with the intake plumbing ruptured cause the turbo to spin to high and cause damage since its pumping air unrestricted?

The truck has 250,000

 

[crash2]

No--no way you can damage a turbo like that unless it was already damaged so to speak.

 

[the4x4pig]

If I read that right and you noticed the turbo sound after the blown boot it is likely nothing changed with the turbo, likely just a result of the hole making the turbo sound different. Clear as mud. Had a similar deal on my old 7.3.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

If I read that right and you noticed the turbo sound after the blown boot it is likely nothing changed with the turbo, likely just a result of the hole making the turbo sound different. Clear as mud. Had a similar deal on my old 7.3.

No thats not correct.

I noticed the loud air leak sound all the way home,but no excess turbo whistle.

I only noticed the louder turbo whistle (coming from up front, not the exhaust) after climbing the large hill once I was almost home, 60 miles after the boot blew.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

No--no way you can damage a turbo like that unless it was already damaged so to speak.

I fixed it today and drove it to town with a light load on the trailer and it seemed like normal.


It seems to smoke a lot when its cold. It also stutters when you rev it up cold. Its starts easily and fast. I never cycle the heaters first, I just crank it.
Almost like its got to be cleared out then revs up smoother. Stinks like its rich.

Its been like that for along time.

I also noticed today that I have a fuel leak that drips about one drip every 7 seconds. Its dripping off of the bottom edge of the lift pump. Its hard to see up there with the starter installed. The bottom of the filter housing above is dry. The lift pump itself looks dry when looking thru the wheel well gap, but its dripping off the bottom edge.

Thats my next fix to tackle. Then I get to rebuild my chattering POSI unit.

It never ends. :SMH:

 

[crash2]

The hoses do go bad after time on those--done a couple and a couple lift pumps that leaked.


You starting issue is more than likely an injection pump timing issue or just a pump on its way out.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

just a pump on its way out.

As in injection pump or lift pump?

I put a new lift pump in about 50,000 miles go. A new Carter pump and a Bosch overflow/return valve.

I also installed a fuel pressure gauge at that time. The pressure always seems kinda low to me. like around 10-15, if I remember correctly.

 

[crash2]

Injection pump.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

So I noticed that the exhaust side of the engine was leaking while I was under the hood yesterday revving it while cold/smokey.

Smoke was puffing out of number one and two exhaust manifold gaskets and also out of the V-band clamp just after the turbo.

So I removed the turbo and it seems to be in decent shape. But Im no turbo expert.
The air filter (K&N) was disgusting, horrible, plugged badly. Not good.

So I found that the exhaust manifold had shrunk a decent amount from 20 years of heat cycles. Enough to break off the top bolt on number one. The top bolt on number two also broke off when I gave it a twist. Fearing the worst, I was surprised when the rest all came out like normal.

So I got a RemFlex gasket set for the manifold and turbo flange. http://catalog.remflex.com/

If you have never used them, your missing out. I have used them on High performance applications for years but was happy/surprised to find out they are making gaskets for diesel and turbo applications.

So I checked with Larry-B today (local diesel parts pro http://www.fostertruck.com/) and he said all the lift pumps have gone to ****. All the old good/reliable ones are now not consistent. He said he no longer carries any of them due to low quality. Last time he had OEM Carters, not now.

So I called around and Napa has the best price on a lifetime lift pump.

Tomorrow,
get lift pump
get new air filter
change oil and filter
change fuel filter
get studs for exhaust manifold
gauges, boost and pyro

 

[CHOP SHOP]

I may fart around on the pump side of things next.

Im thinking a set of 3k gov springs, cutting the fuel plate,,

AND what else wakes these things up?


My truck is an auto with 4.10s.

 

[toyzuk]

I believe 3k springs are stock, so 4k gov springs is what your looking for, but its been so long since i messed with mine that its hard to remember lol

A plate grind will waken that thing right up. When i first drove my truck after the fuel plate was taken out it felt like it added 200 hp hahaha, those were the days lol.

My buddy loved his hx40 in his and his aurora 3000 before that.

Im about to pull my bigger turbo out and throw and aurora 3000 with an ats manifold in there. Its been sitting on the shelf for along time....

 

[POR]

Brad you know Liam? He had you saw him some boards for his table last year.. hes got a 4bt bronco.. he's a cummins freak.. shoot him a call he'll know everything you need to do on your motor to wake it up.

 

[Horus]

Waking up the Cummins is easy. Keeping the transmission alive behind it, not so much. At least you have a Dana 80 center and 4:10s. I managed to rip three teeth off my Dana 70 ring gear. Still made it home.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Im pretty sure its a dana 70. The trucks a 2500, not a 3500.

I have a nice billet triple disc converter here for a future tranny build, but the current tranny seems to keep on going strong.

 

[Horus]

Go look anyway. IIRC 2nd gen trucks got an 80 if it had a manual transmission and it was an option for auto trucks If it was ordered that way. Also, when I pulled mine apart the ring gear had cracks in the valleys between all the remaining teeth. If you pull the cover and inspect the ring gear these cracks are likely visable if present.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Go look anyway. IIRC 2nd gen trucks got an 80 if it had a manual transmission and it was an option for auto trucks If it was ordered that way. Also, when I pulled mine apart the ring gear had cracks in the valleys between all the remaining teeth. If you pull the cover and inspect the ring gear these cracks are likely visable if present.

Im afraid to look inside! SO far, I just keep driving it pretending to be unaware!

On a nice day when the slider window is open I can hear it whine a little when on or off the throttle but quiet when no load.
So Im sure the ring/pinion is unhappy along with the POSI.

Always something!

 

[CHOP SHOP]

SO I got the passenger side of the engine all taken care of.

Had to get a new exhaust manifold. The old one had shrunk 1/4 inch in length and would not seal.

New exhaust fasteners.
New oil and filter.
Took the turbo to Turbo Technology and had it checked out. It got a clean bill of health. Got a new air filter/cold air kit.

Installed an AutoMeter pyrometer and boost gauge.

Today Ill start on the fuel side of the engine.

 

[zukkev]

I believe 3k springs are stock, so 4k gov springs is what your looking for, but its been so long since i messed with mine that its hard to remember lol .

NO, 3K are not stock...
Stock 12v falls flat about 2600... the 3K spring kit (or mod, if you are uber cheep-google it...) typically will get your powerplant running hard upwards of 3200rpm, but then you stand the chance of valve float at around 3100ish, in which case, the 60lb valve spring kit upgrade SHOULD also be in the budget...
It's a fine line...If doing the 3K 'mod', then you can fine tune it with the appropriate thickness washer set to achieve a perfect 3K max...but it takes time...easier to do the 60lb valve springs IMHO, and not have to wirry about it every time you accidently run er past 3100....IT happens...:awesomework:

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Stupid truck!!

I got the lift pump on and new filter and check valve in. Making 30psi fuel pressure now.

Installed the new Pyro and Boost gauges.

Went to take it for a test drive and got to the end of my driveway and the brake pedal about went to the floor. Pulled it back in and noticed the inside of one front tire covered in brake fluid.

Time to do calipers/brakes!!

 

[toyzuk]

NO, 3K are not stock...
Stock 12v falls flat about 2600... the 3K spring kit (or mod, if you are uber cheep-google it...) typically will get your powerplant running hard upwards of 3200rpm, but then you stand the chance of valve float at around 3100ish, in which case, the 60lb valve spring kit upgrade SHOULD also be in the budget...
It's a fine line...If doing the 3K 'mod', then you can fine tune it with the appropriate thickness washer set to achieve a perfect 3K max...but it takes time...easier to do the 60lb valve springs IMHO, and not have to wirry about it every time you accidently run er past 3100....IT happens...:awesomework:

I always thought valve float was around 3800-3850 on stock springs, i ran my truck up to 3750 for years when i was young and dumb on stock springs lol. I never heard the valves making noise either.