1310 vs 1330

A bigger U joint isn't your answer. A 1330 will get you up to 50 ft lbs from your engine and a 1410 would get about 80 ft lbs...Any way you slice it you need to stop power braking in 2WD low range.
WTF do you do that anyway?
 
I thought the 1330 was the bastard 1310/1350 cross.

I run 1350 and have broken everything(upstream/downstream) except the 1350's
 
Binder said:
A bigger U joint isn't your answer. A 1330 will get you up to 50 ft lbs from your engine and a 1410 would get about 80 ft lbs...Any way you slice it you need to stop power braking in 2WD low range.
WTF do you do that anyway?
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It wasnt like i was just power braking it. I only did that the first time. I was in two wd only because the front axle doesnt have the shafts in it. Every other time it broke i was in gear...LOW LOW it happened to be ....foot on the brake and i tapped the gas and boom.My worry is if it will break doing that how easy is it going to break on the trail. Will a bigger joint do the trick?
 
I run a 1350. Broke the u-bolt style straps before the joint. If you have a drive shaft that is a 1310, can you just change the slip yoke to a 1350? Thats what I did. But I kinda have a bastard set-up.I have a 1350 slip yoke and a ford 9" yoke on my 8.8. So I have to buy 1350 yoke and a ford 9", use the caps off the 9 to fit. But I have been running napa's joints with no problems, they are pretty good size joints. :cool:
 
JOOP said:
I run a 1350. Broke the u-bolt style straps before the joint. If you have a drive shaft that is a 1310, can you just change the slip yoke to a 1350? Thats what I did. But I kinda have a bastard set-up.I have a 1350 slip yoke and a ford 9" yoke on my 8.8. So I have to buy 1350 yoke and a ford 9", use the caps off the 9 to fit. But I have been running napa's joints with no problems, they are pretty good size joints. :cool:
Click to expand...

I gotta to come up with a different yoke for my dana 300. I thought i got a 1350 yoke but it was 1330.
 
Brian H said:
It wasnt like i was just power braking it. I only did that the first time. I was in two wd only because the front axle doesnt have the shafts in it. Every other time it broke i was in gear...LOW LOW it happened to be ....foot on the brake and i tapped the gas and boom.My worry is if it will break doing that how easy is it going to break on the trail. Will a bigger joint do the trick?
Click to expand...

A bigger joint will help but you're always at risk of breaking things with compound low gears. You just have to be aware of what you're doing to keep from ****ting parts.
 
Binder said:
A bigger joint will help but you're always at risk of breaking things with compound low gears. You just have to be aware of what you're doing to keep from ****ting parts.
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I probably will keep the klune in 1 to 1 as Im afraid of breaking now.:redneck: Do you think that 1330 will hold for a trip to the hammers?
 
My t-case end is a 1310 double cardine. I'm not worried about that. My week spot in my drive line is my R&P.
 
You have alot less torque than me Jon. Im hoping that when i up grade the joint size it helps the breakage.
 
Brian H said:
I probably will keep the klune in 1 to 1 as Im afraid of breaking now.:redneck: Do you think that 1330 will hold for a trip to the hammers?
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Simple answer is yes.....What you need to understand is parts break when there is resistance. Power braking is what kills it. You could have a million ft lbs of torque coming from the engine and nothing will break if there isn't resistance. Wadding a tire does this same thing.
Now if you have other issues as well like maybe a joint angle issue it could break without much resistance at all.
Just take extra parts and wheel it!
 
Binder said:
Simple answer is yes.....What you need to understand is parts break when there is resistance. Power braking is what kills it. You could have a million ft lbs of torque coming from the engine and nothing will break if there isn't resistance. Wadding a tire does this same thing.
Now if you have other issues as well like maybe a joint angle issue it could break without much resistance at all.
Just take extra parts and wheel it!
Click to expand...

Well Im going to build the 5th:haha: driveline tomorrow and finish up the final touches. All thats left is..put the front axle shafts and ring gear in... fix a steering leak...fluids and lug nuts.:cheer:
 
I wheeled my yj with 5.13s d60s 40in tires reasonably hard and never broke one in 4years. I ran a 1330 at the t-case output and a 1350 at the axle. had better clearance at a steeper angle than the 1350. It might be easier on it with the front shaft in it too, but it might be an angle thing too. how long is the rear d-line and what is the angle at on the rear t-case output joint? I just remembered I had a high pinion d60 in the rear.
 
Brian H said:
I probably will keep the klune in 1 to 1 as Im afraid of breaking now.:redneck: Do you think that 1330 will hold for a trip to the hammers?
Click to expand...

WTF??? The way youve been talking to me lately has brought me to the realization that you know everything about the hamma's...:fawkdancesmiley::fawkdancesmiley::fawkdancesmiley:
 

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