2005 Dodge Ram 2500 Window Switch Issue

[patooyee]

I used to have a 2008 2500 that had this same issue. It isn't until now that I am having this same issue with my 2005 that I am starting to realize what is going on.

The symptom: My master driver window switches will randomly loose power. When it does (obviously) the windows won't roll up or down. Sometimes it lasts seconds, sometimes it takes so long to restore power that I have to just leave the windows open and come back later. I used to be able to push the bezel around and get the power to flicker back but tonight it got so bad that not even that was helping. So I took the switch out and discovered that there is an electrical issue going on. There is one terminal at the connector both on the harness and the switch itself that is getting hot. Tonight when I removed it I could smell the burning plastic and it was hot to touch.

According to Alldata this is the "FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT {RUN-ACC)"

I can find a few references via Google indicating that this is a somewhat common issue, one reference to soldering some loose connections on the switch board, but nothing definitive on how to fix it or what is happening.

Anyone got any ideas or have also experienced this? Being that it happened on 100% of the same generation trucks that I have owned I have to think it is pretty common.

 

[Eddyj]

I have a 03 and it acts like the window lock is stuck on. Only drivers control works on all 4 windows.

 

[patooyee]

Re: Re: Re: 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 Window Switch Issue

I have a 03 and it acts like the window lock is stuck on. Only drivers control works on all 4 windows.

That is an even more common issue. Google "dodge ram window switch issue" and you'll find detailed info on how too fix it along with pics. (microscopic views of the faulty solders even!)

30 mins of light work and a soldering iron to fix your issue.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

 

[Eddyj]

 

[patooyee]

Well, as far as I can tell my problem seems to be related to opening and closing all 4 windows at once, which I pretty much always do. I took my switch apart to find none of the solder issues reported online. I soldered all my connections just in case because they weren't from the factory. They just used cheesy friction pins for all the circuit board connections from the factory. While I had it apart I operated all 4 windows at once and the power terminal within the connector got too hot to touch and started burning plastic just from one rapid up/down cycle. If I used one or even two windows I could go up/down/up/down pretty much as fast and as much as I wanted with no heat.

If I'm not mistaken, this body style was Dodge's first with power rear windows? I'm thinking they just used the same size circuits as the previous body style that only had two power windows and that the circuit just isn't built to handle 4. That's about all I can think of?