22RE inline fuel pumps

[Rix]

Fuel pressure is set by the regulator, not the pump.
The 5mge supra used an external pump, down by the rear suspension subframe. They're like most toyota pumps and hardly ever fail.
fuel pressure on the 5mge is close enough to the 22re, but needs more volume. The mk2 supra pump should be an upgrade, but not so much as to heat or cavitate the fuel, like people with a stock corolla and a giant walbro.

 

[Toyotanut]

I ran an msd 2225 pump on my toy truggy without any issues. I did have it moutnted within a foot or so of the fuel cell.

 

[crazybluerider1]

My e2000 is mounted directly behind my fuel cell level with the bottom. It has about 12 inches of fuel line from the pickup to the pump. I have been running the same pump since 2001. Never had even a hiccup other then one time when I had a relay fail. This is in a ZUK with a 1.6l but that should not really make a difference in pump life.

For the first 4 or 5 years it was drawing off the stock tank. I had it mounted right in front of the tank with about 3 inches of line connected directly to the fitting on the top of the tank.

 

[zukkev]

Put the pump back by the tank brad, and just below the bottom of the tank if you can/have room :awesomework:...It's been mentioned before already multiple times though!:redneck:

 

[t1h5ta3]

Its running a 3/8 4 wire hydraulic hose for a fuel line. I dont see it sucking it flat with the fuel demands of a 22re?

But I do see the hill climbing point.
.

the point wasnt exactly it sucking shut, but that under a surge, esp with gravity working agenst you, the suction side of the pump can see a huge demand, its realy easy to cavitate a pump with a long suply, esp if theres ANY bubbles in the fuel (comon when fuel from the return line splashes back into the tank)

on a side note tho, most hydro hose is neither fuel or alcohol rated, when you take the pump out to return it, i betcha theres tiny black chunks inside it...

sounds like 2 really good reasons to relocate the pump and re plumb things....

 

[super samurai]

idk, jeremy has been running his e2000 longer then yours with no issues, I run the summit brand basic cheap pump with no issues, jeremys is mounted up by the wiper motor with the stock tank and f.i. hose, mine is basically the same place on my buggy with tank in back and no issues. so idk they all say mount back by tank but my experiences say I have been fine with them up front.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

idk, jeremy has been running his e2000 longer then yours with no issues, I run the summit brand basic cheap pump with no issues, jeremys is mounted up by the wiper motor with the stock tank and f.i. hose, mine is basically the same place on my buggy with tank in back and no issues. so idk they all say mount back by tank but my experiences say I have been fine with them up front.

Yep, IM not giving in to "location"being my issue yet.

The first pump went almost a year. Then they have been going faster with every bad one.

I talked to a couple dealer techs at ford and they dint think the location was a problem either. I also talked to a couple techs at the FP bus garage too where my uncle has been a mech for 20+ years and they dont think the location is bad either.

My pump is ALLOT lower than my tank and only 6 feet away from it. Ford chassis van motorhomes have the pump further away than mine and they work fine.

Plus the last time it died was on the busy at the bridge. It went run ONE run into the busy and died. So that pretty much shoots down the pump having to pull to hard while climbing theroy. I never used hardly any throttle and the rig was POINTED DOWNHILL making the fuel tank higher ALL DAY.

My uncle brought up a good point, he said it sounds like the fuel pressure regulator was failing and raising the fuel pressure to a point high enough to overwork/overheat the pump.


Anyone else have any input as the 22RE fuel pressure regulators failing?

Im going to install a fuel pressure gauge and a new pump and start it up and see where the gauge ends up.

on compressed air it likes to have at least 55 psi to run killer, what the actual specs on 22re pressure requirements?

 

[skinny_pedal]

38-44 psi with vacumm hose disconnected off regulator. 33-37 psi connected

 

[TreeClimber]

I talked to vatozone and he said "no problem" bring it in and get a refund.

I bought it last year on Jan 28th so I only have a couple weeks left on the 1 year warranty.

Im glad they allowed a refund.

Now what pump to buy? holly? toyota supra? summit/jegs?

Why not just run a OEM in tank pump?

 

[zukkev]

Yep, IM not giving in to "location"being my issue yet.

The first pump went almost a year. Then they have been going faster with every bad one.

I talked to a couple dealer techs at ford and they dint think the location was a problem either. I also talked to a couple techs at the FP bus garage too where my uncle has been a mech for 20+ years and they dont think the location is bad either.

My pump is ALLOT lower than my tank and only 6 feet away from it. Ford chassis van motorhomes have the pump further away than mine and they work fine.
Plus the last time it died was on the busy at the bridge. It went run ONE run into the busy and died. So that pretty much shoots down the pump having to pull to hard while climbing theroy. I never used hardly any throttle and the rig was POINTED DOWNHILL making the fuel tank higher ALL DAY.

My uncle brought up a good point, he said it sounds like the fuel pressure regulator was failing and raising the fuel pressure to a point high enough to overwork/overheat the pump.


Anyone else have any input as the 22RE fuel pressure regulators failing?

Im going to install a fuel pressure gauge and a new pump and start it up and see where the gauge ends up.

on compressed air it likes to have at least 55 psi to run killer, what the actual specs on 22re pressure requirements?

Ford inline pumps in both oe cases, and in MHc chassis' run a low pressure feeder pump in each tank to supply the inline high pressure pump...just food for thought.
Also, have you check to be sure you don't have a power/ground issue causing failed pumps????

 

[super samurai]

I dont think the pump is the issue still, as in my post before , jeremy has a e2000 mounted up by the wiper motor mounted in the padding supplied with it and no issues. hell one time it got this crazy spiral plastic piece from a fuel jug that was clogging and it still works! mine on my buggy is a cheap $80 one from summit, and has worked fine also. are you mounting it padded? I think your on to something with the reg.

 

[JAWS]

My stock one works like a dream!!!

 

[zukkev]

If the regulator fails causing high fuel pressure, it's possible the pump could go bad from being overworked, but I would first check to see that the power/ground are both good, as any resistance in either can also cause the pump to work, and ultimately fail... have you checked amperage draw/voltage drops with a running pump?

 

[t1h5ta3]

on compressed air it likes to have at least 55 psi to run killer, what the actual specs on 22re pressure requirements?

38-44 psi with vacumm hose disconnected off regulator. 33-37 psi connected

check your fuel pressure at a couple places if you can, including the return line( you do have a return line right).
most regulators fail by getting a hole in the vac diaphragm, they default to there wot setting makeing things run rich

the e2000 is rated for 95psi specs here so i doubt that overheating the fuel is an issue.

now, if your return line was pluged, it wouldnt move enough fuel thru it to cool it, and then you'd see high fuel presure as well..

 

[t1h5ta3]

hole in the diaphragm ,, yep,, then fuel pressure is the least of your worries,

Sucking pressurized fuel into the eng,, fills em full of gas,

Can trash a engine if you don't catch it in time

thats why the vac chamber and fuel chambers are separated. ( that and if it were just a diaphragm seperating them it wouldnt do any thing..... think about it , presure on one side, suction on the other.... instant balloon..

overly simplified diagram

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Pump works great in front still.

Turns out my prefilter had broke the eliment loose and anytime I would hit a large bump or bounce over a log it would kill the pump because it would stir up sediment in the bottom of the prefilter.

The prefilter had been the same one with every failed pump too.

I replaced the pump and installed a fuel pressure gauge.

The new pump made perfect pressure and ran great.


Then I shook the prefilter to remove the remaining air inside and the rig abruptly STOPPED running. No fuel pressure and NO heat at the pump. It was COLD.

Then after powering the pump back up it became hot to touch. But it didnt get hot when it failed?

I figured whatever killed it must have seized the pump since it was cold when it died. SO I took offf the inlet fitting and it had a couple chunks in it.

I inspected the prefilter and it had broke one end of the element loose and was sucking up anything in the bottom of it.



NEW pump and FILTER. Several trail runs on it and its working perfectly now.

I knew the location was NOT to blame.

Moral of the story, get a METAL ford filter and NEVER use the $1.99 clear plastic filters out of the fish bowl by the cashier.

 

[super samurai]

I knew it wasnt location, and as for the filter, I use one of the ones that look like a metal one but is clear if you can picture it. never had a brob yet, it is my pre filter and I use the stock ona after the pump.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

I knew it wasnt location, and as for the filter, I use one of the ones that look like a metal one but is clear if you can picture it. never had a brob yet, it is my pre filter and I use the stock ona after the pump.

Yep, I have the stock one one the side of the block still.

Be careful with that plastic one, thats the same one I used and it deteriorated the epoxy between the paper element and the end and thats where it was letting crap get by.


If your gonna run one, replace it at least twice a year minimum. Mine is exposed to sunlight, I wonder if that made it even worse.

 

[crash2]

I use one of those metal can pre-filters and never had a problem..

 

[Bill USN-1]

The master E2000 mounted at or below the bottom of the tank and as close to the tank as possible will last a long time.
I have been running and installing them for 10 yrs without a failure.
I run a G3 see thru filter before the pump and anytime the filter loses it air bubble you know it's time to change it. (if you don't understand...ask) You can run a ford or GM metal filter after the pump but it's not really needed just nice to have should you **** a pump.

They should not be mounted in or near the engine compartment or you will be asking if there is a better pump to run because yours fails.
It also can lead to vapor lock.

If running the E2000 you can run the dorman 800-119 quick disconnects for a 3/8' hose fitting.
Or run the E8248 universal pump with 3/8 inlet and outlet.

Here's a link to parts required for the TBI conversion.
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45292