24v programmer suggestions

[mxracer124]

Wondering which programmer you guys have had good luck with and where to buy. I have pyro, fuel and boost gauges already so i dont want to get one with a monitor. I would prefer not to tap the pump wire putting more strain on it. The truck is pretty close to stock...BD intake, 4" straight pipe turbo back, a little bigger than stock turbonetics turbo (not sure on size was on the truck when i bought it). Im going to be getting a raptor 100 or 150 LP w/ big line kit at the same time as programmer. Thanks in advance

 

[FastEddy]

hands down best programer on the market
http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/describefms.html

 

[mxracer124]

I've heard nothin but good about bluechip but with an $1100 price tag seems more for a race truck than what i need for towing my toyota around.

 

[Lucky Jeff]

Without a pump tap, SMARTY is the way to go. Then if you decide you want a little more down the road, you can stack a TST box on top of the SMARTY and tap that wire.

 

[mxracer124]

Without a pump tap, SMARTY is the way to go. Then if you decide you want a little more down the road, you can stack a TST box on top of the SMARTY and tap that wire.

Im not convinced on the smarty. My buddy has one in his common rail and it doesn't make a very noticable difference in power. His only has 1-3 adjustment levels but the VP44 one seems to have more levels? And their not on the fly adjustable are they?

 

[Lucky Jeff]

Im not convinced on the smarty. My buddy has one in his common rail and it doesn't make a very noticable difference in power. His only has 1-3 adjustment levels but the VP44 one seems to have more levels? And their not on the fly adjustable are they?

Can't remember if they have a POD for the VP44.. Your buddy has a Smarty Jr, it's not for making big power, it's for towing and fuel mileage. Most of the high hp common rails in the country run a SMARTY along with other boxes stacked.. They can certainly make the power. And it's the only one that actually changes the programming in the computer, it doesn't just fool the info going into the ECM. But you're not going to get any decent amount of power out of that VP44 without tapping that wire.

 

[Not Jobless]

Any electronics worth a **** to make power are going to tap the pump wire and more than likely limit pump life.

Go with a Smarty...then put some injectors in for reliable power.

 

[cmud]

i run edge juice w/attitude, had it for a couple years and love it

 

[ain'tstuckjustresting]

i run edge juice w/attitude, had it for a couple years and love it

Ha! Newb.

 

[Lucky Jeff]

i run edge juice w/attitude, had it for a couple years and love it

They work well if you get a good one.. But they have the worst failure rate of any box on the market.. It would definitely be one of the best if they were more reliable..

 

[mxracer124]

Ok so the reading i have found is that if i dont tap the pump wire most all programmers say level 1 is the same as higher levels because of no added fuel? Sounds like im going to be tapping the wire after all...

 

[Lucky Jeff]

Ok so the reading i have found is that if i dont tap the pump wire most all programmers say level 1 is the same as higher levels because of no added fuel? Sounds like im going to be tapping the wire after all...

If you end up going that route, just get a TST. Decent price, and you can always stack something like a smarty on later if you feel the need to go bigger. TST will give you more then enough though.

 

[Stacks]

Jeff is right. I started with the Smarty then the TST and then I got injectors. I sold my TST awhile back cause I needs a little cash and I bought it used on ebay for 550 and sold it after having it for a few years for the same price. Be ready to swap clutches!!! I run a South Bend Dual disk but it is kinda overkill for what i have.

 

[Alpine4x4]

I got a Quadzilla Adrenaline. Love it except for I killed my VP-44 because I didn't have a lift pump that could keep up with it:haha: You dont need the monitor with it, just the pod that comes with it to switch power levels. It's adjustable on levels 1-10 and can be fine tuned with the monitor if you go that route.

 

[NotMatt]

Yeah, don't go with the Edge. Mine would randomly lose all of its settings on a regular basis like it had lost power. Edge even sent me a new one, and it did the same thing.

The Smarty is a good start if you don't want to tap the pump wire. It's not adjustable on the fly, it modifies the values and settings in the factory ECU. It can be stacked with another box later down the road (TST, Quadzilla, etc) that taps into the pump wire. For reliability, don't tap. For power, tap. You're not going to see any huge gains without tapping the wire though.

Step up to the plate and order a FASS and a big line kit, no matter what you do. The stock lift pump isn't even adequate for a stock rig, IMO.

 

[DRobinson]

I would at the very least get a big line kit and relocate the lift pump back by the tank. Not really a difficult task. I'm not sure how most others have done with the Edge comp but that is what I have stacked with a smarty and 100hp Injectors. The Comp doesn't have gauges but I would rather have analog gauges anyway. I have had the comp on my truck for 90k and have never had a problem with it.

I have nothing against the Smarty or the TST. For me I wouldn't do the Smarty first with a basically stock truck I don't think you will get much out of it.

Another thing to consider with the TST is it does not add timing the comp does. Unless you plan on buying a smarty after the TST you will have to find a way to add timing. A little timing will help with Egt's and even with the addition of horsepower from the box you will still have to watch the Pyro with a stock turbo.

Also the smarty has levels for box's with timing and without so no worries about which box you have when it comes time for the Smarty.

One more thing if you get a box with the pump tap wire. Good luck resisting the temptation to tap the wire. I told myself I wouldn't tap mine for a while, that lasted about a week and it was tapped. About two weeks after that, I was headed to PDR for a new trans :redneck:

 

[Lucky Jeff]

Step up to the plate and order a FASS and a big line kit, no matter what you do. The stock lift pump isn't even adequate for a stock rig, IMO.

I've been seeing way too many problems with FASS recently. Have a few friends that have gone through 3-4 pumps on their rigs (Dodge and Ford). As well as quite a few others on competition diesel. Airdog seems to be the better way to go, haven't heard any problems with them. I'm in the middle of installing an airdog II on a friends truck. Should be pretty comparable to the FASS, but without the reliability problems.

 

[Lucky Jeff]

I have had the comp on my truck for 90k and have never had a problem with it.

People who have had no problems with their edge product love them, that's for sure. Not everyone get's a bad one. The only downfall is the toss up as to whether you will get a good one or not.. The odds are against you getting a good one more then any other manufacturer on the market. That's their only downfall.

 

[NotMatt]

I've been seeing way too many problems with FASS recently. Have a few friends that have gone through 3-4 pumps on their rigs (Dodge and Ford). As well as quite a few others on competition diesel. Airdog seems to be the better way to go, haven't heard any problems with them. I'm in the middle of installing an airdog II on a friends truck. Should be pretty comparable to the FASS, but without the reliability problems.

Never had a single issue with mine, other than it being kind of noisy in general... but that's the price to pay. I guess it's a toss up like anything else, but definitely a big line kit and an aftermarket high flow pump with a good filter setup is important, no matter who you go through.

 

[JOOP]

Whew there's a lot of good info in here.

What would the best route be to boost mine up to 400hp? Currently I have a 4" turbo back. I think stock they are 260hp... (99 CTD)