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6.0swap help

skipnrocks

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2011
Messages
1,355
Location
Billings Montana
I figured this is the place to ask this but I am doing a 6l swap into an old truck. Is there something you guys do to. Bypass the emmisions stuff. I am asuming there is supposed to be pre and post cat o2 sensors etc? Any other things I need to worry about?
 
Give Jonathan at Beans Diesel a call.
He can remove everything from your ecm except what you need for the engine to run.
 
Deleteed the back two o2 sensors and block off egr I also took off oil cooler off my if u do take oil cooler off don't just put a flat plate on it Chevy dealer has proper plate for it that's what I did on mine all depends on how simple u want everything
 
we put one in a jeep yj a year ago. we used a howell fuel injections wiring harness and it deletes all the don't need junk. we had a computer and used it as a core. they sent us one that was already flashed to remove the things we didn't need. it costs about $600 for the harness and $200 for the computer w/ a core. it is well worth it. i'm not the worlds greatest auto electronics person, but if you can butt splice wires this kit is the way to go. i have used there kits in the past and i have a tbi set-up on my gm 350. seriously it took me 3.0 hours to completely wire the 6.0 liter we installed it on. i hope this helps you out. they can help you out with any questions you might have. give em a call.
 
I also put a 6.0 in a yj and the howell harness and computer is for sure the way to go very clean neat and simple. just give them a call and tell them what your putin it in and they will do the rest. you wont be disappointed. :driving: howellefi.com 810-765-5100
 
How much did you get with the donor. Its all about having a complete pull. I actually keep fuel lines out of the donor truck and all. You only need the first set of 02's, keep them, Rears will delete. Scrap the cats if you can get your hands on them.
if you got it all, have jims cut the harness and flash the brain. $400ish for all of it. I'm on number 6 and very happy.
It really depends on what all you got and what its going in as to what exhaust will fit. Give me a call if you want a complete rundown.
 
you don't need the down steam 02's and you can remove the egr. you will need your computer tuned to eliminate those and like spotter said jonathan and cassi are good to work with. you can also cut down your own harness, just a little time and you need a schematic. i'm sure the pre done harnesses are nice but also $$$$$
 
Last Rebel said:
we put one in a jeep yj a year ago. we used a howell fuel injections wiring harness and it deletes all the don't need junk. we had a computer and used it as a core. they sent us one that was already flashed to remove the things we didn't need. it costs about $600 for the harness and $200 for the computer w/ a core. it is well worth it. i'm not the worlds greatest auto electronics person, but if you can butt splice wires this kit is the way to go. i have used there kits in the past and i have a tbi set-up on my gm 350. seriously it took me 3.0 hours to completely wire the 6.0 liter we installed it on. i hope this helps you out. they can help you out with any questions you might have. give em a call.

It was my jeep that Last Rebel did the swap in. I am telling you it is real easy to do the howell harness and computer. If it is a time issue I would do the howell harness. If you have no time limit then you can go the other route. I look under my hood and you cant find the wiring harness it is super clean.
 
blacksheep10 said:
How much did you get with the donor. Its all about having a complete pull. I actually keep fuel lines out of the donor truck and all. You only need the first set of 02's, keep them, Rears will delete. Scrap the cats if you can get your hands on them.
if you got it all, have jims cut the harness and flash the brain. $400ish for all of it. I'm on number 6 and very happy.
It really depends on what all you got and what its going in as to what exhaust will fit. Give me a call if you want a complete rundown.

I probably will I got the motor and factory harness and ecm with the first set of 02s, and mas air crap.. nothing else...
 
My buddy put a fast harnass and computer in his, plug n play they said....i wouldnt re,ccomend this option, though its runnin awsome now with the help from yankster....fast customer service sucked ass....it didnt run for **** initially and when we would call them they didnt help at all, and we called alot!
 
if your tight budget spark plug foulers (1.50$ at advance) will keep the rear O2 from EVER throwing a code or CEL
 
wannabe said:
if your tight budget spark plug foulers (1.50$ at advance) will keep the rear O2 from EVER throwing a code or CEL

There's a bunch of other codes that will need to be disabled besides just the rear O2 sensors. I don't know what spark plug foulers are but there are more than just lean / rich codes that the computer looks for out of the o2 sensors. (Functioning heating circuit is just one of them.) Therefore, if you're just trying to trick the computer into thinking it is getting an appropriate O2 level reading it may not actually keep it from throwing o2 codes. When you get your computer done you're not paying on a per-code basis. You're paying one flat fee to get everything you need done. Thus, there is no extra charge to delete rear o2's. If you're using a stock computer you will HAVE to send it out or have it programmed if for no other reason than to disable VATS. When you do so is when you will have all the DTC's you don't need disabled.
 
wannabe said:
if your tight budget spark plug foulers (1.50$ at advance) will keep the rear O2 from EVER throwing a code or CEL

Just read what those are. That is the most terrible idea I've ever heard of. Basically you're going to starve your engine of fuel and cause detonation so you can avoid replacing a $25 O2 sensor? And that does nothing for a vehicle that simply has no rear 02 sensors to begin with, which is what this thread would be referring to.
 
google it, to much fpr me to type.. and you dont remove the plug. you leave it, thats why its CHEAP. because you use the factory **** without modifiying it. the only thing the rear 02 does is moniter the cat anyways, the plug foulers just pulls it out of the direct exhaust stream but still lets it get the heat and other stuff it needs to not through a code. i promise it works, ive done it and hundreds of thousands of others have too.
 
dude this is for the REAR O2 sensor.... not the front. all this is is to keep the rear from throwin codes for cat eff.
 
Yes, but he doesn't need the rear o2 sensors in the first place and he's going to have to have the ECM programmed either way. Thus, he saves no money with your amazing trick, in fact, spends more, and it only adds problems, not solves any.
 
my advice was just given incase he wanted to simplify.. just read the first post and a couple other and saw sugestions of ecm reprogram, missed were he said he was going to reprogram. i was just tryin to help him out if he ws lookin for the cheap way..
 
If you're using the stock harness and computer and want to do it yourself you need to get a pin out of your PCM and thin out what you don't need. Its not that hard and increases your knowledge of the system ten-fold. I would recommend everyone do it but some people just don't care to and I understand that, too. My ECM is probably different than yours but here is a spreadsheet of mine. You can learn from it to do yours.

http://www.patooyee.com/ls2build/harness/Harness Info.pdf

There is also a bunch of info at http://www.lt1swap.com/ their pin-out may match yours.

PS, if you do your own harness, keep all the wires and try not to cut them. Over half the entire harness comes out and I had enough left over to do almost my entire chassis harness with. It is good, high quality wire, too. I ought $300 worth of new wire in anticipation of doing my chassis and ended up only using about $10 worth of it. And my chassis harness is not simple, either. I have lots of stuff in it that most rigs don't.
 
patooyee said:
If you're using the stock harness and computer and want to do it yourself you need to get a pin out of your PCM and thin out what you don't need. Its not that hard and increases your knowledge of the system ten-fold. I would recommend everyone do it but some people just don't care to and I understand that, too. My ECM is probably different than yours but here is a spreadsheet of mine. You can learn from it to do yours.

http://www.patooyee.com/ls2build/harness/Harness Info.pdf

There is also a bunch of info at http://www.lt1swap.com/ their pin-out may match yours.

PS, if you do your own harness, keep all the wires and try not to cut them. Over half the entire harness comes out and I had enough left over to do almost my entire chassis harness with. It is good, high quality wire, too. I ought $300 worth of new wire in anticipation of doing my chassis and ended up only using about $10 worth of it. And my chassis harness is not simple, either. I have lots of stuff in it that most rigs don't.

Good advice on keeping the OEM wire.

I keep pretty much all OEM wiring that I pull from anything. Way better wire (finer strands, more flexible insulation) than the crap that comes on rolls at the parts store.
 
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