96 12 valve wont start

[cisco]

Went out to start my 96 12 valve after it sat for 3 weeks. Ran perfect before parked. Truck cranks and grid heaters cycle. Cranked with pedal to the floor for several 10 second intervals. It has always started instantly for the last 4 years.

Turned key and manualy engaged shut off solenoid. Solenoid stays in up position while cranking and after cranking with key in on position.

Pulled fuel filter, filter was full, poured into glass jar and fuel looked good no water. Replaced filter.

Any ideas?

 

[zukkev]

try cracking the lines at the injectors to see if fuel is getting to the injectors while cranking...might not hurt to have someone else crank it while you watch the lines...but be careful and wear eye protection.

 

[FastEddy]

try cracking the lines at the injectors to see if fuel is getting to the injectors while cranking...might not hurt to have someone else crank it while you watch the lines...but be careful and wear eye protection.

just squint... its not a common rail :fawkdancesmiley: yea what zukkev said...

 

[rollnhvy]

You probably have old soft lines in the fuel system allowing air in and the diesel is draining back to tank.......:beer:

 

[zukkev]

Any time your dealing with this stuff it's good to wear eye protection....am I guilty of not???... yes, but I have also almost paid for it the hard way on many occasions...too many close calls, I try and pick up the extra set of eyeballs any chance I get....

 

[cisco]

I went out to crack the line. Tried it a few times. Never saw any fuel squirt out but the truck started and ran normal. Tried it again and started instantly like it normaly does. I guess it's fine.

 

[Lucky Jeff]

bled the air out of the lines.. Probably just a bad fuel line behind the pump. It'll do it again if you let it sit like that.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

fuel heater is more than likely bad.

Get rid of it even if its not bad cuz it will go bad.

I tore my starter and whole fuel system at the napa in Albany OR and replaced all the lines cuz I thought they were bad. Not the case still did it.

Fought that air leak forever and finally found it was the fuel heater (chrysler part, not cummins) had a burned terminal sucking in air.

Its easy to remove, just unscrew it from the prefilter housing next to the lift pump and remove the threaded extension that chrysler put on and then just screw the bowl back on.

Its a worthless part that shouldnt be there.

 

[cisco]

I got some time to poke around under the rig and see what's happenin.

I looked back by the lift pump and didn't see anything resembling a fuel heater unless it's located between the frame rail and the tank where I couldn't really see. Rubber lines come out of the top of the lift pump and mate to solid lines on the frame rail.

I followed the hard lines up the frame rail toward the injector pump. I did see a rubber line back underneith the fuel filter that looked a little wet. The spot that looked wet was where the hose contacted a metal support bracket. I'm thinkin maybe that it rubbed there and that is where the leak is.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

The prefilter housing with the heater is right next to the lift pump on the BLOCK.

It is between the lift pump and the steering pump. It will have a fat rubber hose going from the lift pump to the prefilter.

The hoses go like this..
frame to lift pump
lift pump to prefilter/heater
prefilter/heater to filter housing
filter to injection pump
injection pump to frame (return line)


The line you see behind the filter housing can be run outside instead of behind it so it is easy to inspect/replace in the future.

 

[superglock]

Shut down relay, Turn the key on and open the hood and lift up on the shutdown arm, It should stay up and it should start. If the arm is up look for another problem.