Alumimum links

Roccrawler · Apr 20, 2006

7075 vs 6061 Comparison Chart: Alloy Tensile Strength Yield Strength Brinell Hardness
6061-T6 45,000 PSI 40,000 PSI 95
7075-T6 83,000 PSI 73,000 PSI 150

answered my own question

cisco · Apr 20, 2006

7075

http://www.matweb.com/search/SpecificMaterial.asp?bassnum=MA7075T6

Roccrawler · Apr 20, 2006

I think its the heims that in question?

Roccrawler · Apr 20, 2006

Applications: Aircraft fittings, gears and shafts, fuse parts, meter shafts and gears, missile parts, regulating valve parts, worm gears, keys, aircraft, aerospace and defense applications; bike frames, all terrain vehicle (ATV) sprockets.

cisco · Apr 20, 2006

Where this stuff gets interesting is in the cross sectional area. Aluminum is lighter so you can beef up the cross section to make up for lower strength. Aluminum is .102lb/in cubed and steel is .284. The 7075 links weight for weight could be close in strength to the steel.

CrustyJeep · Apr 20, 2006

As I understand it, alluminum is plenty strong enough... It may not have the yield or ultimate strength of steel, but it can deflect further before yielding, whatever you call that... So the links are weaker, but are harder to bend permanently... ?

Roccrawler · Apr 20, 2006

aluminum links cost same as chromoly

crash2 · Apr 20, 2006

roccrawler said:
aluminum links cost same as chromoly

wHEN YOU factor the price of the weldserts yes...

Roccrawler · Apr 20, 2006

crash said:
wHEN YOU factor the price of the weldserts yes...

ya,

...................

Roccrawler · Apr 20, 2006

unless you plan to weld in your heims :redneck:

Binder · Apr 20, 2006

I agree with most of what has been said. For normal "wheeler" use I would not use aluminum because of it's fatigue properties. Aluminum tends to just break with no warning. It may be OK if you intend to replace them often, like every time you bend one. Don't bother to bend it back just throw it away and get a new one. For me this would be like 4 links on every trip.

cisco · Apr 20, 2006

If they are overbuilt, aluminum links will outlast the lifetime for intended use. Question is where is that sweet spot for optimized weight reduction and still have them meet the design requirments.

moto261 · Apr 20, 2006

they are cheaper if you factor in the price of the weldserts (if you can drill and tap them your self ) and you also have to rember if you wanna weld them right you need to tig them using cromo (not just a mig welder)

crash said:
wHEN YOU factor the price of the weldserts yes...

darius · Apr 21, 2006

Losing weight down low is not a benefit, but losing weight overall is, never thought the weight of your link's was what made for stability. They have a higher yeild than the 1 3/4 .375 wall chromoly that we normally use, but like said only time will tell and troy is a perfect test dummy.:flipoff:

Roccrawler · Apr 21, 2006

I gonna beat the piss out of um.... I'll keep ya all posted :redneck:

crash2 · Apr 21, 2006

Jobless said:
They are nothing but bling factor...there is no value added in aluminum links on a rock crawler.

Removing wait down low is ridiculous, makes about as much sense as aluminum differentials.

But the wieght isn't down low-its at the transistion poit/point of movement--granted its not at the frame hieght but still...

Roccrawler · Apr 21, 2006

crash said:
But the wieght isn't down low-its at the transistion poit/point of movement--granted its not at the frame hieght but still...

Good Point

and the bling factor is good too

sarg · Apr 21, 2006

darius said:
They have a higher yeild than the 1 3/4 .375 wall chromoly that we normally use,.:flipoff:

why not 2inch .500 wall cromo with 1.1/4 hiems oh wait Im sorry 3/4 inch hiems work just fine:haha:

Binder · Apr 21, 2006

cisco said:
If they are overbuilt, aluminum links will outlast the lifetime for intended use. Question is where is that sweet spot for optimized weight reduction and still have them meet the design requirments.

To overbuild them out of Aluminum is just about impossible IMHO.