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Axles for 302 and 37's?

NotSoPC

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Ok so I am planning stage two of the zuki so I can pull parts together once it is out of the shop. Plan is to convert it to a LWB body style with crusher style sides and fenders flares. Link the front and keep it leaves in the rear. I want to run a 302 with a C4 and toy t-case with 4.7 gears and something like a 4.10 in the axles. Run a 37" M/T. My question is with bobby longs will the toy axles live under the rig? Would I be better to run 9" axles front and rear? Should I aim to narrow a set of 60's? What about hybrid toy/60 axles?

This will all be pulled together over time and will be making much better money when I get to this point.
 
Longs have and will live to v-8 power...it's the ring&pinion that'd be questionable...It's all in how you plan to drive the thing. Being a light body/chassis, you gain a little breathing room, but....
 
302's don't make the most torque in the world... however, it's double what any 4 cylinder that lived there ever thought of producing...
 
Longs have and will live to v-8 power...it's the ring&pinion that'd be questionable...It's all in how you plan to drive the thing. Being a light body/chassis, you gain a little breathing room, but....

With a 4.10 r&p I should be better then with say a 5.29. Plus a cryo job should help even more I would think.

302's don't make the most torque in the world... however, it's double what any 4 cylinder that lived there ever thought of producing...

Ya the 302 would be stock other then headers (to help it fit). Not a huge power house but should kinda act like it in a light rig like a zuki.
 
stuff it with full width 60s and dont worry bout it, make the money well spent. plus if you want to go bigger on tires you can
 
stuff it with full width 60s and dont worry bout it, make the money well spent. plus if you want to go bigger on tires you can

Only issue is I would like it to still be street legalish. Full width 60's would put the whole tire out side the body or I would.
 
stuff it with full width 60s and dont worry bout it, make the money well spent. plus if you want to go bigger on tires you can

toy axles do hold up but the ? is, how heavy is your foot,

I don't smash on it al the time and tend to be easy for the most part. But with a V8 and. Little weight I can't say I won't get after it from time to time. I don't have a fear of full throttle runs. That's why I was thinking of a stronger axle then the toys.
 
I say tone it down to a realistic and liveable system. 4.3/th350/300 or atlas.


:haha: my 4.3 has more power then an LS1. Joe is right though, a run of the mill 4.3 and toyota axles would be okay, you could run all day and not worry about it. (As long as your not an idiot.) I think a 302 and toy axles would be okay too. Everything just basically boils down to the driver.
 
I say tone it down to a realistic and liveable system. 4.3/th350/300 or atlas.

Reason for the 302 is cause I am able to get one with a C4 for real cheap. If I went with a 4.3 then it would have to be a Vortec for the 190hp. I would not mind a set up with the combo you listed but have not seen a D300 in a price range I liked. Also I think I would want a 700R4 for the lower 1st gear and overdrive.
 
Reason for the 302 is cause I am able to get one with a C4 for real cheap. If I went with a 4.3 then it would have to be a Vortec for the 190hp. I would not mind a set up with the combo you listed but have not seen a D300 in a price range I liked. Also I think I would want a 700R4 for the lower 1st gear and overdrive.

Gotcha. Does the c4 have a t-case on it? Adaptors for them are pricey. If you drive like a nancy the axles should hang for awhile.:redneck:
 
Gotcha. Does the c4 have a t-case on it? Adaptors for them are pricey. If you drive like a nancy the axles should hang for awhile.:redneck:

No t-case on it but think I could get ahold of one from an early bronc. Maybe a 4.3 would be better in the case of weight and space. Power could be bumped up in a 4.3 to my liking. What is the going price for a D300 if one can be found?
 
Personally i think the 4.3 fits the bill size and weight wise, idk about d300 prices or what side drops they have. I do know that flipping them is a pretty normal thing to do. Maybee richards 5.0 atlas will work for ya(in the for sale section). With the way the economy is, Im sure all this stuff is easy to afford.
 
Personally i think the 4.3 fits the bill size and weight wise, idk about d300 prices or what side drops they have. I do know that flipping them is a pretty normal thing to do. Maybee richards 5.0 atlas will work for ya(in the for sale section). With the way the economy is, Im sure all this stuff is easy to afford.

Well the plan is to finish it as is and get it to dd mode for now. I will be pulling parts together over time for the next year an a half or so (fast if money allows) and building it when I have all the parts.
 
Here is what I know,for fact, from living with a couple 5.0 in different buggies.

My first buggy...ROWDY 5.0HO,C-4, 2.7 D-300,6.50 609's with 35 spline OEM shafts. This buggy would through 60 parts with the blip of the throttle....period. Anywhere...anytime....I could launch axle parts at will.

Was it the healthy 5.0? Was it the OEM shafts? Was it the lack of parasitic loss through the C-4? Obviously a combo of all...

This buggy made a ton of Ground pressure as well....old school,no seperation S-N 4 link so traction was off the hook.....even with OEM compound.

To the OP....is your built Toyota axle stronger than Stock Dana/Spicer 35 spline shafts/joints? Perhaps....I don't know

Buggy I have now....Anemic 5.0HO,Built C-6, 2.7 D-300,Junkyard 60's with 6.17' and new generation Yukon everything.

This car will still throw parts,mostly ring and pinion....but I have to really wad it up and I can feel it start to bog the motor....sometimes I let off and other times.....well...

The parasitic loss,through the C-6, is really noticable compared to the C-4.

To the OP....I feel that with any sort of Spirited driving you are going to **** parts everywhere. Perhaps running 36's would help a ton. The 5.0 is damn near the same weight as a 4.3 but with a bunch more grunt....V-8 grunt.....sure...not like a BB or a reflashed LS motor but still enough to **** parts compared to a 4.3 or a 4cyl.
 
Here is what I know,for fact, from living with a couple 5.0 in different buggies.

My first buggy...ROWDY 5.0HO,C-4, 2.7 D-300,6.50 609's with 35 spline OEM shafts. This buggy would through 60 parts with the blip of the throttle....period. Anywhere...anytime....I could launch axle parts at will.

Was it the healthy 5.0? Was it the OEM shafts? Was it the lack of parasitic loss through the C-4? Obviously a combo of all...

This buggy made a ton of Ground pressure as well....old school,no seperation S-N 4 link so traction was off the hook.....even with OEM compound.

To the OP....is your built Toyota axle stronger than Stock Dana/Spicer 35 spline shafts/joints? Perhaps....I don't know

Buggy I have now....Anemic 5.0HO,Built C-6, 2.7 D-300,Junkyard 60's with 6.17' and new generation Yukon everything.

This car will still throw parts,mostly ring and pinion....but I have to really wad it up and I can feel it start to bog the motor....sometimes I let off and other times.....well...

The parasitic loss,through the C-6, is really noticable compared to the C-4.

To the OP....I feel that with any sort of Spirited driving you are going to **** parts everywhere. Perhaps running 36's would help a ton. The 5.0 is damn near the same weight as a 4.3 but with a bunch more grunt....V-8 grunt.....sure...not like a BB or a reflashed LS motor but still enough to **** parts compared to a 4.3 or a 4cyl.

Good things to know. The thing is last time I had a rig with some power (2wd S-10 Blazer lowered with a built 350hp'ish Vortec 4.3) and I had a really hard time keeping my foot out of it. I know that with some power in the sammy it will be the same.

Maybe I should step it down in motor and tire to a 4.3 on a 36. I could always play with that and if I feel the need I can build a buggy for more power and tire.
 
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