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BeerJ's BuzzBuggy Build-o-rama!

I was actually looking at some property beside yours but I didn't like the way your horses were looking at me.
0a28c7486bfef1c381db298a0c995a1b.jpg
 
iron lotus said:
This thing turned out awesome.. hitit hitit
I agree! Thanks
Rockwells607 said:
those pics look like trail 5 at Rausch?
You would be correct sir. Coming in from the top side, made my way down the left side of the hill climb and then went back up the middle route. Had to heat the tires very briefly but after that she walked right up. The videos are from the gap at crawler ridge and the exit of shoot the moon.
 
Damn, if I wasn't working tonight and tomorrow night I'd try to swing up. Give me a holler next time though. I'm only an hr away.
 
Thanks a lot guys. It's almost surreal to be driving something around in the woods that I built in my garage over the past 2 years.

And Ryan, spring rates appear to be spot on. I don't see any need to change anything there but I do have 1 question. I noticed I have quite a bit of body roll. Not so much while navigating obstacles but if I'm on flat ground and go hard on the throttle, the suspension will completely compress on one side and fully extend on the other. Is this an indication of something screwy with my geometry or just the nature of the beast from running soft valving and springs? You can kinda see what I mean in this clip my wife caught while I was testing things out.
https://youtu.be/kp_e-pevv2Q
 
That is caused by driveshaft rotation torque, same thing as a drag car.

It is more prevalent when you have deeper t-case gearing, higher axle gearing, bigger tires, softer suspension, more power and lockers/spool.

I see that your dual rate nuts aren't adjusted.
In the front put them 1" away from the slider at ride height.
In the rear put them 2.5" away from the slider at ride height.
This will help with the roll, bottoming out and the torque lean.

Next step is firmer shock valving. I can re-valve them for free, or I send you the disks if you can do it.

Final step is a sway bar, cool things coming, but probably 6 months away.
Or TK1 or Performance... (no personal experience with either)
 
Ok. I figured it was because of the torque, just wasn't sure if I there was something missing in my geometry that would counteract that to some degree. I definitely think I'm going to add a swaybar to the rear at some point. I've got the room so why not.

To be honest, I didn't even mess with the slider nuts. Just figured they were where they were supposed to be. I'll get them situated right away. Overall though I think I'm pretty happy with the valving. Just cruising the trails it was super comfortable yet stable around the turns even moving at a decent clip. I've never wheeled or even rode in a rig running coilovers but they still felt predictable if that makes sense. No crazy unloading or anything goofy. We'll see how it does once I upgrade a couple of parts so I can start thrashing it some without breaking.
 
You can build the suspension to be asymmetrical in order to counteract the torque. but I've never seen anyone actually do it.

The solutions I listed were in order of cost and ease of installation, a sway bar will be the most effective, but the nuts will make a difference too.
 
Re:

TBItoy said:
Does anyone run the dual rate nut closer on the right rear, or even stiffer springs on the right rear to counter torque roll?

Not that I've seen. That would work, but the downside is that it would negatively impact suspension performance and feel.

Sway bars are the best solution aside from unequal geometry (which I've never seen)
 
I was there once. Couldn't tell you what we hit because like you said, it was kinda difficult to determine where we even were. Either way, let me know. If I'm not working then I'm usually down to wheel.
 

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