BTF fusion finish up

InDaShop · Nov 17, 2010

for $13 he better be giving you a handy with the good lotion, none of that trying to pass of Hand Sanitizer stuff that **** burns

Bones · Nov 17, 2010

InDaShop said:
for $13 he better be giving you a handy with the good lotion, none of that trying to pass of Hand Sanitizer stuff that **** burns

NEVER I repeat NEVER get a hand sanitizer handy when you are having an outbreak

CheapJ7 · Nov 17, 2010

i believe i was too hungover for workday last trip, not too lazy.. there is a minor difference...

But i forsee that may happen again.. So maybe a handy to break even and a handy for some d-shaft parts... :flipoff1:

Holla at me anytime Haley, I'm pretty much finished with clinicals until after Thanksgiving.

Classic handy derail.... :dblthumb:

blacksheep10 · Nov 25, 2010

Been busy on other things, got called into work this week, 13's plus all week, even fri and sat.
I got the front shocks mounted and sweeps braced down to the triangulated node in the front of the chassis. I might brace one more back to the dash to windshield x bars node. Removable would be trick there. Also going to go shock mount to shock mount removable across the top of the engine.

flexed it out and stuffed the other side and turned to 43* both ways with the 40's.

1" at the droop side to chassis rail (ok, maybe 3/4")

tire has enough at tightest point

fender bar will follow the tire up and over at this angle

tire clears chassis, 44 should clear. this is at 43*, it will be stopped at 39*

whacked the back of the high steer arms off, they now clear the shock body, and will be cleaned up as well

blacksheep10 · Nov 25, 2010

at the front, where I cut the old fender bar off it is the tightest. It clears now, and will rub when I put a tube and bigger tars in there

So I started on brackets. Moving the PS pump up, the alt over and the tensioner around was necessitated by the extra uptravel I'm throwing in the mix.

The alt will be on the WP where the spring tensioner used to be, and braced to the head to not fatigue the water pump or stress it and loosen the bolts or make the gasket leak. It is 2 pieces of 3/8" plate, and the old backside idler is now a backside tensioner in a slotted hole that makes the belt drop straight down to the damper (because the links are above the front pulley at full stuff.)

I plan on selling a kit with cnc cut plates and spacers cut on the lathe to get your links all the way up beside the engine on a triangulated upper setup.
its all scientific and stuff

had to get the mockup block down, easier to measure than reaching through chassis bars

I also cut the rear shock tabs off and cleaned them, took the 350 case and adapter to dana 300 out, along with the case. I have a 3.0 atlas on the way that fits a 400, and am using a 400 I had out of another rig. I cut the belly tubes out and will make them removable for faster service. I want trans changes to be quick and painless, none of this 1/4" clearance and 1/4 twist and a shoehorn **** for service.
adapter for sale btw. :flipoff1:

We should be done with the job I'm on mid next week, so I'll be back at this and a couple other customer projects I picked up.

onetoncrawler · Nov 27, 2010

looking good and makin quick progress!

1TONZR2 · Nov 28, 2010

I like it...keep up the good work, you will be wheelin soon!

P · Nov 28, 2010

I hope you dont sell it, but I know thats the plan. That could be a killer play rig for you to keep and / figure out a way to tag around KS ! Glad you got something coming together proper for you to play in man, holla if you ever need help :dblthumb:

blacksheep10 · Dec 14, 2010

Off a couple days, going back tomorrow. Worked on my bathroom all weekend, and yesterday/last night.
Got my atlas, it doesn't fit. Yep, ordered brand new direct from AA, told Vic I was putting it on a stock chevy 208/241 adapter, and wanted it flat. They are ADVANCED adapters, thought they might know where the holes were. Like, if someone were to have an 81-90 chevy of either body style in a 3/4 ton, wants to ditch the 208 or 241, and wants the tcase flat, what would they do? Why order an Atlas. Weird, he lined the 6 allen head bolts that hold the front seal/bearing retainer/clocking plate on directly up with the 6 holes on the adapter I need to use. There are 3 choices as to where he could have put them, he put them when I need holes. I told him I was using this adapter. "The guys at S&N were using those, and had broke a few."
Ok, I'm solid mounted with rear and side support, I'm ok
"Well, we recommend our adapter that's $265, plus the spacer ring that's $75"
No ****, but I'll try mine first
So he put the bolts right in the way. Maybe he doesn't know that the holes on the most common adapter to ever come on the back of a 4wd 400 has holes straight up and down, and on the evens (12, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 oclock) :

So now I have to buy their adapter and wait for it, or drill and tap the face of my brand new couple thousand dollar case. ****ers
It was 5* yesterday morning.....not ****ing celcius either. My shop with the wind blowing through and snow drifted in sucks to work in, so I'm putting it off a bit. back to it

blacksheep10 · Dec 14, 2010

I now have a pile of AL chips on the floor, the front of the case is retapped with the right clocking on it :

cleaning now and getting ready to make a gasket for it. **** its cold in the shop.
back to the meat locker

race_jeep · Dec 14, 2010

Man I have missed your rambling tech threads, keep it up :dblthumb:

COPPERHEAD42 · Dec 15, 2010

blacksheep10 said:
I now have a pile of AL chips on the floor, the front of the case is retapped with the right clocking on it :
cleaning now and getting ready to make a gasket for it. **** its cold in the shop.
back to the meat locker

Should have kept the stak :flipoff1:

blacksheep10 · Dec 15, 2010

COPPERHEAD42 said:
Should have kept the stak

And built a shaved ford side 60 front for it? Na, I have enough on my plate to not start over on the whole housing too. It's ready to go in, and the stak funds came in handy on the other atlas for the single seater and 9" third :woody:

Bones · Dec 15, 2010

Reason for mounting both ends of the ORI perpendicular to the axle top and bottom? Will they bind?

Lookin good man, that shop is hell this time of year, quit bitching and get back to it. :flipoff1:

blacksheep10 · Dec 15, 2010

Bones said:
Reason for mounting both ends of the ORI perpendicular to the axle top and bottom? Will they bind?

Lookin good man, that shop is hell this time of year, quit bitching and get back to it.

1.6" wide spacers and 9/16" Radius tabs with the 1/2" bolts, it would take another 4" of travel to make them bind. They are so not even close.